battery kill switch info
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  1. #1
    Official RnS Addict lambretta_ash's Avatar
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    battery kill switch info

    well think i know but lets see

    going to fit a battery kill switch now if im going to do it propperly would i have both power cables from the alt going to the battery as if i leave it as one cable to battery(switch at positive) it would still run on thru the alt correct or no

    and i got just the battery kill not fia master battery kill thanks
    Last edited by lambretta_ash; 08-07-2012 at 22:46. Reason: missed abit

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  3. #2
    Two Sauces and a Sausage! 55chev's Avatar
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    Think im getting your drift,the alternator main feed runs back to the battery side of the kill switch,therefore disableing alternator live feedback,put a 100 amp fuse in that live feed though,just to be safe!
    Last edited by 55chev; 08-07-2012 at 23:28.
    The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.
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  4. #3
    Official RnS Addict lambretta_ash's Avatar
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    i do make some sense

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    Weslake-Monza is offline
    A battery master switch isn't the same as engine kill switch. You do need an FIA type battery master/circuit breaker that wires the ign through the switch and has a resistor to dump the load to prevent the alternator diodes frying.

    I don't think you can run the alternator live through the battery switch - well maybe that one time before you fry the diode pack.

  6. #5
    Official RnS Addict MikeS's Avatar
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    Made that mistake with mine. Hit the battery kill switch with the engine still running; cost me an alternator!!
    Money talks; unfortunately mine just says "goodbye"

  7. #6
    Official RnS Addict lambretta_ash's Avatar
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    please run this by me as i think differnetly if the cut off is just before the battery and the alt goes direct to the battery then the last charge would go in the battery... would it not ?? therefore killing nothing or am i just misunderstanding something
    Last edited by lambretta_ash; 17-07-2012 at 00:53. Reason: bass turd posted without my consent

  8. #7
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    There are two ways of looking at this. One is the race way where cutting off the engine in an emergency is the prime importance. (Marcs method and required in certain race authorities). The second is done to cut power to everything:
    Referring here to one wire alternators and two post kill switches.

    In the first you wire the power lead of the alternator to the battery side of the switch. In an emergency when say a marshall flicks the switch on a still running crashed car the engine will cut out. This is because the alternator is now taken out of circuit with the ignition system and so it can't backfeed and keep the engine running. The priority with a race car is to switch off the engine. The downside is that when the car is parked and the kill switch in the off position then that power lead/alternator internal is still live.

    In the second you wire to the output side of the kill switch. In that same crash scenario when the switch is turned off the alternator output can backfeed the ignition and the car will keep running. Not desireable in racing. The plus side is that when parked and the switch is in the off position then everything is dead and isolated from the battery.

    As said above you can get an FIA type switch which has extra terminals to wire a three wire alternator and prevent killing the alternator if you choose to. Also as Marc says fuse the alternator power lead and I use a really heavy gauge wire based on the alternator output value.

  9. #8
    Official RnS Addict MikeS's Avatar
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    I found this on the Moroso sight, maybe it helps

    http://moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_instweb.pdf
    Money talks; unfortunately mine just says "goodbye"

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