LED batten tube light - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie roscobb's Avatar
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    I've been involved with supply of dimmers and lighting controls for many years - the mistake so many installers and users make is (and whether fluorescent or LED) is to use the brightest white lamp source available - its usually cool white or equivalent - we've all seen it out walking the dog at night - curtains wide open - ceiling dotted with overpowered lamps allowing a microscopic view even from outside, Natural white is the correct lamp colour for internal domestic - if the lady of the house applies her make-up in a bathroom under cool white when she goes out in daylight or under other artificial light she will run a risk of the orange skin skin syndrome..........just saying. Cool white is fine in a shed, garage or commercial application - go careful if matching colours though.
    Carburation suck'shttps://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/customavatars/avatar199184_4.gif

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  3. #12
    Official RnS Addict brading's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys. Will be taken on board

  4. #13
    Official RnS Addict a40custom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brading View Post
    If you change the tube don't you have to change the wiring.
    not on all of them ...we sell the direct fit one's at work.....no messing with the wiring at all..

  5. #14
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    As a bit of an aside, one thing that's a bit irritating is a) the cost of LED bulbs. Yes, I know they're cheaper to run and they're supposed to last longer (I'm not entirely convinced), but they're a lot more expensive and b) when I bought the aforementioned LED downlighter for the landing, it came as a complete sealed unit, which means when the LED fails, the whole unit is kaput which doesn't seem very green. The previous unit took replaceable spotlights. It's now getting harder to find incandescent bulbs, and certainly not 100w ones, which I use in the lead light in the garage. What does everybody do for leadlights these days, particularly when you've a pensioner's eyesight?

  6. #15
    Official RnS Addict mattblack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4potHemi View Post
    As a bit of an aside, one thing that's a bit irritating is a) the cost of LED bulbs. Yes, I know they're cheaper to run and they're supposed to last longer (I'm not entirely convinced), but they're a lot more expensive and b) when I bought the aforementioned LED downlighter for the landing, it came as a complete sealed unit, which means when the LED fails, the whole unit is kaput which doesn't seem very green. The previous unit took replaceable spotlights. It's now getting harder to find incandescent bulbs, and certainly not 100w ones, which I use in the lead light in the garage. What does everybody do for leadlights these days, particularly when you've a pensioner's eyesight?
    LEDs last longer but the drivers **** themselves every 5 minutes...
    50 shades of grey primer....

  7. #16
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4potHemi View Post
    As a bit of an aside, one thing that's a bit irritating is a) the cost of LED bulbs. Yes, I know they're cheaper to run and they're supposed to last longer (I'm not entirely convinced), but they're a lot more expensive and b) when I bought the aforementioned LED downlighter for the landing, it came as a complete sealed unit, which means when the LED fails, the whole unit is kaput which doesn't seem very green. The previous unit took replaceable spotlights. It's now getting harder to find incandescent bulbs, and certainly not 100w ones, which I use in the lead light in the garage. What does everybody do for leadlights these days, particularly when you've a pensioner's eyesight?
    rechargeable cordless led lights are very cheap these days and brighter than the old 100w bulb you use. i'm the same in as much as i need a bright work light so believe me the led lights are good. most have a magnetic base too which is good.
    neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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