1962 Chevy C-20 Fleetside - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Official RnS Addict grizz's Avatar
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    Holy Thread Resurrection BATMAN !!!

    Based on a link elsewhere.

    How are you enjoying your truck Barney???
    IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM MATE.

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  3. #12
    Slowly but surely Barneys66's Avatar
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    Blimey - thanks for the bump Grizz

    Nothing to report really - haven't driven her since the autumn and starting to divert time/attention/money to Mustang as fresh engine will be built this year and I've got lots to do before the car is ready to receive..

    Truck continues to be fettled and also got new wheels and tyres (£60 off eBay and the tyres were nearly new!. I keep buying bits and pieces off the US Chevy Truck forum, incl a horn button and associated hardware which finished off the wheel nicely. And that's about it!

    Shame you're not closer - you're welcome to have a good look round/drive if it helps with your research




  4. #13
    I'm a grown up member now ! neatbeard's Avatar
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    Ahhhhh now I know the reason for your answer on the 'other' forum. I was sat there thinking "..his truck doesn't look that modifed..."
    Welcome to East Anglia – the arse end of England!!
    '68 Dodge A108 - Large, loud n yellow!

    https://www.facebook.com/VonTash

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  6. #14
    Slowly but surely Barneys66's Avatar
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    Minor update - truck had a nasty habit of getting too hot in traffic, so at long last I've upgraded to an electric fan.

    An original 1962 fan shroud was sourced a couple of years ago to help the engine-driven fan, but offering it up revealed that the chassis-swap plus larger-than-stock aluminium radiator meant it was unusable in its original state. So, fast-forward a couple of years and decided it really needed to be sorted, so after various recommendations on this 'ere forum I procured a 16" Volvo 740/760 electric fan off eBay, complete with box of relay tricks to aid the install, for £40 delivered.

    Fan is not flat faced so a simple cradle was bent up from flat bar and mounted to the truck's vertical supports. The shroud was then offered up and found to cover the rad best laid on it's side - the unfortunate consequence being the mounting tabs now visible at the top but these will be sorted in time. Holes then needed cutting for the pipes and various reliefs were cut into the now bottom edge to clear. Top radiator bracket had to me moved over to suit.

    As the engine fan would no longer fit, I thought the two-speed Volvo fan would be ideal, as I could use the low speed on constant, with the high-speed kicking in on the thermo switch if things got too hot. Ideally a two-stage switch would allow low speed to come on once the mechanical thermostat opened but maybe revisit that in time.

    As for the wiring, the relay box (at an angle for clearance) made things nice and simple but I only realised after running the trigger wires into the cab that all they need to do is earth, not be powered! Oh well. What this means for now is it's not ignition controlled but I'll sort that in time, as it can run on for a while if hot as the thermo sender just sits in the top hose. Thermo dial can be seen just below the fused relays for the headlight harness. Low speed is linked to the switch on the dash, mounted in one of the radio holes. 30 amp supply and a good earth and she fired right up and it really does shift some air!

    Please excuse the state of the engine bay - plans afoot to pull it all out for detailing, including hiding the wiring and fitting parts acquired to date; low mount for the alternator, original air-cleaner adapted for 4bbl, script valve covers, ram horns, etc, etc. I like my stuff to look in-period where possible, so the shroud's primary use is now to hide the plastic fan!










  7. #15
    Slowly but surely Barneys66's Avatar
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    The truck has been festering since developing a hefty oil leak from the back of the motor on the day of its MoT in August last year.

    I'd planned on fixing it during June but with the 205 taking longer to finish than expected it was shelved. However, some added motivation in the form of a car show on the local USAF airbase this weekend, to celebrate the 4th July, made me think I can fix it this week, snatching a couple of hours a night (workshop is 40 mins away..).

    Having sold the stock rocker covers and chrome air cleaner during the year, I sourced some more period looking pieces from a contact in the States, but being a later engine these were never going to bolt straight on. Thankfully they're not difficult to modify - the air cleaner slips over a standard 14" filter element and base, and I'll be drilling the Chevrolet script covers for the pcv/breather in a discreet fashion. Oil filling will necessitate a cover off, but small inconvenience to pay.

    Rear main seal is a messy, horrible job with the engine in situ, so I ended up wearing quite a bit of oil and ears full of grime. Still, nice surprise uncovered in the form of four bolt mains. Truck is booked into Nobody's place for some fabrication work later in the year, which will also include a healthy drop but in the meantime it doesn't need jacking up much to slide underneath!

    Oh, and the headers aren't staying - got some ramhorn style shorties to replace those in time, and will all be pulled for detailing once back from Wayne's place.




    Decent clearance between the subframe and sump, thankfully.




    Bought one of these single-piece sump gaskets (plus new oil pump, etc) which with it's 'Snap Ups' will make refitting a breeze..




    Period cleaner slipped over modern element / base




    Script covers will be drilled on the inside edge or rear for the pcv (baffled grommet shown) and breather (via the bulkhead fitting)




    Straightening to guarantee a decent seal, hopefully..




    Saturday here we come! Hopefully..

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    early motors with no filler/pcv holes on valve covers had an oil fill tube in the inlet by the thermostat housing. similarly the rear of the inlet can be drilled for the pcv for neatness.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  9. #17
    Slowly but surely Barneys66's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    early motors with no filler/pcv holes on valve covers had an oil fill tube in the inlet by the thermostat housing. similarly the rear of the inlet can be drilled for the pcv for neatness.
    Yeah, I did consider sorting the / a inlet for both but am going through the covers for ease and speed!

    The lack of an oil fill tube will probably force me to revisit that in the future..!

    Cheers

  10. #18
    Slowly but surely Barneys66's Avatar
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    That'll teach me to trust someone else's diagnosis, as after replacing the rear main oil seal it still leaks. Oh well - at least I got to replace the oil pump and screen whilst I was in there, and inspect the main bearing which shows they'll need replacing soon. Thanks to Kev for spotting the obvious signs of a leak at the back of the motor near the inlet manifold join. Will investigate further..

    Finished off the rocker cover pcv/breather - sorry for the poor quality pics but here's how I did it. Will pull apart for detailing once back from Wayne's place, but starting to look much more like I want it;

    Bulkhead fitting at back of driver's cover to draw fresh air from air cleaner (angled to clear throttle linkage);




    Passenger cover has baffled PCV grommet then to base of carb - put this in the middle as opposed to the rear to aid baffling and the slight angle helps with the PCV gravity valve;




    Getting there with the period look - ramhorn type manifolds to fit along with low-slung alternator bracket, black leads, etc, then detailing.


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