I picked up a new LQ9 block, 317 heads and some other parts at the NSRA swap meet in 2014.
This is the oil pan I got with the engine, think it's a stock truck/escalade one. It's approx 8" deep.
I've chopped and modified the oil pan so it's now the same dimensions (roughly) as a CTS-V pan. Didn't cost me anything except some time and effort
I got stuck into porting the 317 heads and took quite a lot of material out of them in the end. Had 0.040" machined from the deck face.
Comp cams roller trunion upgrade done
I ended up with a long truck style crank, which is a nightmare for after market flex plates etc. So I did a bit of modification on it so that I can use the readily available SFI flex plates and an old style 4L80E converter with no adapters or spacers
Bought myself a rather shiny inlet manifold, which will fit under my hood as I have a 4" scoop
Cam Motion did a custom grind camshaft for me
Building the short block:... crank in
Then I had to do some disassembly to drill and tap the block to fit an LS2 cam chain damper as my block didn't have the necessary holes as it originally had the LS3 style tensioner which are notoriously unreliable.
Then I fitted the oil pump only to find something was binding up. Stripped the brand new pump to find a chunk of swarf inside... Not great for a new part from a respectable manufacturer.
Then on to fitting DSS forged pistons to the LS2 rods with ARP bolts. Had the big ends honed 0.002" oversize to round them up for the new special OD bearings.
Gratuitous shot of completed rotating assembly...
Assembled the oil baffle, pick up pipe and front cover onto the engine. I did think about polishing the timing cover, but decided it was too much effort for something you can't really see once the whole engine is built.
After that I cleaned the oil pan out and fitted that. Nice to have the bottom end all done.
Next up, assembly of the heads. Checked all the valves were straight as I knew there was a high likely hood of at least one being bent. Turned out there were 4 bent ones. Just as well I had some spares. What was a bit unexpected was finding a broken intake valve guide. So I need to look at making myself a new one and fitting that tomorrow.
Then I marked out the combustion chambers to see how much material I could remove to un-shroud the valves. Turned out more on the exhaust side, but generally not very much. So it didn't take long to get that seen to on both the heads.
After all that I did have enough parts to get one head fully cleaned and assembled.
After that I soaked the lifters in a tub of oil and then fitted them to their retainers and into the block.
Then made myself a valley cover. I didn't have one with my engine parts and it only took 30 mins to make one.
After that I got the assembled head fitted. It gets it off the floor, and makes it easier to keep everything clean!
Next up making a new valve guide. I found a piece of cast iron to machine one from. I did consider making a bronze one, as I have some, but it seemed a bit pointless unless I made 16 new ones, which I wasn't about to do! It took about an hour to machine one up, pleased with the result... spot the home-made one.
This was the extent of the chamber work, unshrouding the valves a bit. Don't want to remove too much material, this was about 3mm blended back toward the valve seat.
Next thing was to fit the crank damper and then find true TDC, shouldn't need it, but it's always handy for troubleshooting later on
Assembled the other head
Popped it on the block, torqued it down and then installed the steam pipes