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  1. #101
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Front Panhard rod mounts now welded in. there is a threaded plug which is welded into the chassis tube, and ultimately there will be a bracket that bolts between the rear of the rod and the top 4-link bolt to provide 'double shear' on the bolt.



    The prop hoop is welded into the lower rear crossmember. Fortunately nothing moved when I cut the tube to fit it!



    Sorry about the mess!!!!

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  3. #102
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Found this really great 'period' shifter on TradeMe for $65 (around £33). This is as-bought condition:



    And gave it a quick resto:



    So I'll be using this and not the one I made earlier!

  4. #103
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Rear 4-link.
    Bit of an epic saga this one. They were made for the 'new' tube frame but were far too long for the tiny wheelbase of the Escort, so I shortened them. No dramas there, except for some of the original (unused) poly-bushes had cracked and perished. New poly-bushes here worked out at around £40 per bar, and on my budget there was no way that was going to happen
    So I found these rod-ends for $45 the lot. Sadly only 7, but there were enough good poly-bushes to allow for one joint on each side. Not a bad Idea I thought, but time will tell. They are designed for race-car coil-overs so should be plenty man enough:




    To fix them I came up with an ingeious idea (necessity being the mother of invention and all that) to use these hose-barbs which are basically scrap stock from my company (thanks Stevie!). The OD of the thread is exactly the inside diameter of the 4-link bars, and with the correct thread bolt bunged in them they should not only look the part, but also give me a nice hex to swing on....:




    Turned the head on the bolts to the same diameter, and drilled the hose-ends for the bolt to pass through:




    Then weld them together. Turn threaded end of bolt the correct length etc:




    TIG up the ends, and plug-weld through to the bolt head:




    Clean everything up ready for a dip in 'rodders friend' before assembly:




    And voila! the rod ends are all oriented so that at full tightness they are in line along the length of the tube:




    This week I've also been working hard in the garage. Gearbox crossmember is fitted. Tubes are in place for the trans-tunnel, and shifter mount plate also in place.




    Now that the 4-link is done I can position the axle and get the exact mount points for the rear springs, and once that is done the 'funny car' drivers cage can go in and we're nearly there chassis-wise.
    Last edited by legendlives; 28-02-2015 at 03:51. Reason: speling

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  6. #104
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Hmmm.... not sure I'd trust that short thread in those 4 bars. If they are designed for shock absorbers then the loads are in compression, you loads on the bars will be in tension and also lateral. Just my 2c worth.

  7. #105
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Errr... shocks have loads in both directions. Most shocks work harder in droop than in compression...

  8. #106
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Probably did not explain it well, but still concerned about the small size and length of thread. Those bars take a lot of strain on a hard launch.
    Your call though.

  9. #107
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Probably did not explain it well, but still concerned about the small size and length of thread. Those bars take a lot of strain on a hard launch.
    Your call though.
    Yes I do understand what you're saying. I'll try it and if it looks dodgy I'll change them out. At least now I can work out exactly where the rear springs will mount!

  10. #108
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    I seem to have inadvertently bought something nice!
    It's a SARD racing BOV. Far nicer than my original BOV.
    I made up the aluminium mounting boss as the one it came with was a) designed for a hose fitting, and b) steel. Neither very favourable as I want to weld it to the intake trunking.





    Bought locally for $40!

  11. #109
    Official RnS Addict steve1275's Avatar
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    Nice! (and noisy)
    Nuttier than squirrel shit

  12. #110
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    I wondered about those rod ends too. The tension load on those joints and threads is comparatively low when they are used as intended in a racing car but their load in your four-bar will be substantial even if you don't mount the springs to them.

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