Cheating The Reaper - Page 47
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  1. #461
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    But if they are not exactly 2:1 you will get drift. If they are 2.01:1 then after 1000 turns they will be .1 of a turn further round. I know you like old school but would it not be easier to use a crank trigger and electonic ignition?

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  3. #462
    Official RnS Addict steve1275's Avatar
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    Er, toothed belts are used to drive camshafts, any 'drift ' would be catastrophic so LL will be just fine with this setup.
    Nuttier than squirrel shit

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    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    agreed, that's like saying my 4.11 gears will be 4.56 if i drive long enough. a certain number of teeth will always be that number of teeth
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  6. #464
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I disagree Neil, I'm saying your 4.11 gears might be 4.1125.
    I hope it's fine but for timing it add's an unnecessary potential for error.

  7. #465
    Feckin fibreglass!!
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    Thats what I was thinking!
    If it don't fit, make it adjustable!!!

  8. #466
    Official RnS Addict thisYup's Avatar
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    sorry Blackpop, you're wrong on this one! 4:11 gears will always be 4:11, wear will cause backlash, but won't change the ratio

    my boss' hart 420 r race engine has a cogged belt driving the cam train like many, many other engines, and another cogged belt from cam to dizzy.. it's a 9000rpm engine, so cam timing is pretty critical considering the valves overlap in the head!

    the cogged belts are otherwise known as timing belts in industry

    20 teeth on one to a 10 tooth one via a tooth belt will always be 2:1 until the cogs rot or the belts snap!...

    there's probably more backlash in a conventional dizzy gear drive off the cam, than there is with a toothed belt drive off the crank!

  9. #467
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    I disagree Neil, I'm saying your 4.11 gears might be 4.1125.
    I hope it's fine but for timing it add's an unnecessary potential for error.
    it might be 4.1125, but it will always be 4.1125. the number of teeth on each gear can't change (unless they break).
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  10. #468
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Blimey, I didn't mean to start WW3!

    Blackpopracing you're right, I could just use a crank trigger with the associated electrical gubbins, but it wouldn't be half as cool!
    There is a budget issue as well. I'm trying to make everything I can to keep the price down. So far I've only spent $4000NZ (about 2K GBP) on the entire build including purchase of the car. New crank trigger etc would probably add 50% to that number.

    Oh, and as far as the belt drive is concerned its 2:1. It came (as I may have mentioned) from driving a balance shaft on a Mitsubishi engine. I'm sure most Mitsi drivers would be sorely ****ed if their engines went progressively out of balance......

  11. #469
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie 69 ford's Avatar
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    Belt drive/cogged belt it is then!

  12. #470
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Carb tried in place:



    Hmm. May have to rethink the bonnet bulge!

    Also took out these annoying panels that were originally there for the bonnet catches. I'm not using bonnet catches......





    I also ended up with hairy hands. Either I've been fingering a sasquatch or it's fibreglass time!



    Aah. Must be fibreglass time. New sexy front-end brackets glassed in place. I'll take out the screws and fill the holes once it's fully set:


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