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  1. #941
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    A bit on the side. 4th and final part.

    Paint. Funny story. I was given a 10 litre pot of paint that had been incorrectly mixed. It was supposed to be silver.
    I didn't care what shade of silver so it was game on! Turns out the blind guy at the paint factory had let his guide dog mix the paint and it turned out a cross between beige and mushroom.
    But it also turns out that 'free' is not only my favourite beer, it's also one of my favourite colours!
    With the frame painted I fitted and sealed the deck. This is made of 30mm treated ply, held down with the correct self cutting/self tapping countersunk screws.





    This (as you may have noticed) has expertly cut out holes in the deck which have tie-down hoops underneath them. Now this may be because the deck is made from industrial desk-tops which already had the holes in them and I've just welded the tie-downs to coincide with them, but I'm sure you'll agree that is highly unlikely.

    Back on it's side for the last time to seal and paint the deck and underside of the chassis:



    You'll notice the correct supports etc to satisfy Health & Safety.......

    All of the wiring passes through the chassis box members to keep it out of harms way, but it has to split in the centre of the trailer to get out to the side markers, so I stole this junction box (which was fitted to the 7Y when I got it). It's nicely sealed and also serviceable.





    So with a quick refurb of the wheels:



    A splash of Ford blue paint, and a set of trailer lights:





    And that's (just about) it. I still have to sand and lacquer the deck and add the ramp stays but I'm not going to bore you with that, so this is it. The end of 'A bit on the side'.
    Now back to the car build.

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  4. #942
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Nice, but please radius the corners of those ramp angles you will rip yourself open on them otherwise.

  5. #943
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    looks good, although i see the ramps have an angle iron welded between them. that's fine if loading and unloading on level ground. if not one ramp may 'want' to be lower than the other so the angle iron may bend meaning the ramps won't sit right when you go to 'pack' them back up.
    neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  7. #944
    Official RnS Addict ivanhoew's Avatar
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    super sexy trailornosity ..nice job LL.
    Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

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  9. #945
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Nice, but please radius the corners of those ramp angles you will rip yourself open on them otherwise.
    I'm too short!

    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    looks good, although i see the ramps have an angle iron welded between them. that's fine if loading and unloading on level ground. if not one ramp may 'want' to be lower than the other so the angle iron may bend meaning the ramps won't sit right when you go to 'pack' them back up.
    neil.
    Yeah, true. Hopefully I'll only be loading at home where it's flat, and unloading at the drags which is also flat.

  10. #946
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    'Reaper on it's way to our new home. Hopefully we'll be able to stay in this one for longer than eight bloody months.
    Pleased to report that the car fits the trailer perfectly, and the trailer tows extremely well. Very pleased for the $140 outlay that it cost!




  11. #947
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    It's been a while.
    Moved house (again) and what with the remodelling of the new garage and running the company race car just about every weekend since we moved I haven't had a chance to do too much. But back at it now!
    There has been a fair bit of not-so-interesting fibreglass work which I won't bore you with at the moment.
    I've made the Dzus brackets for the bonnet and bonnet sides:

    These are the side panel clips. The extra material (which will be trimmed to suit) is to give better purchase on the fibreglass front. They will be bonded and riveted in place.


    The bonnet itself will be held down by these:





    The channels are to miss the returns on the bonnet frame. Again these are made oversize to allow for trimming.

    You'll need a tray...

    Undertray that is. There's nothing worse than being pushed back off the line because of a drip of coolant, water or oil.
    Made from 1.6mm aluminium, this will attach with Dzus clips and would contain the entire contents of the sump if need be!



    These little cut-outs are to miss the front spring nuts where they protrude inside the chassis rails:





    And it fits like this:





    Sorry for the crap photo's!

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  13. #948
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    Underneath the arches....

    Dreaming my dreams away..............

    Avid followers may remember that some time ago the wheelarch flanges (the bits the arches bolt to) were raised up the body by about 500mm. This left the replacement arch a bit short in a couple of areas.

    The back of the arch was too short at the inside flange by 30mm, it also didn't follow the line of the valance. Now this may have been because the arches were meant for a Ford Pop, or it could be that the fabricated rear valance (copied from the one that was on the car when bought) didn't follow the correct line. Whichever it needed to be extended and reshaped.





    It needs trimming and finishing but the shapes now match, so happy days.

    At the front end the arches were about 120mm short. It would have been easy to just extend down the same way as I did the rear, but people with no lives will also remember that the exhausts poke out in front of the arches, so a bit of heatproof stuff was preferable to just glassfibre.
    I came up with these:





    Made from 2mm aluminium, these were hand-beaten into the compound curve shape of the arch, and then had the outside bead added with a tool I made to flange aluminium tube.
    The bead will eventually continue all around the arch, and I'll make the aluminium bits flush to the surface of the arch.

    More soon!

  14. #949
    Official RnS Addict legendlives's Avatar
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    TIggety-boo

    Another excuse as to why I haven't posted much lately is the sad demise of my trusty 'Trans-TIG 140' TIG welder.



    This shat itself when I was welding my trailer, and after careful consideration vis-a-vis the cost of repair vs the cost of a new welder I opted for option 2.



    It's a Certa 200amp DC welder, predictably from China (but it's OK 'cos it didn't cough and I didn't shake it's hand )
    Locally they sell for upwards of $300, but I bought it straight from source at $88 including shipping!

    It's about the size of a DVD player, is rated to 60 amps more than my old TIG and lays down some seriously good beads!
    Whether or not it lasts is another matter but I have seen some great recommendations for it so let's see.

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  16. #950
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    $88.00?? !!! bloody hell!!

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