Chevy Build '74 350 SBC - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I second checking the pushrod length - if incorrect it will lead to early failure of components.

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  3. #22
    Official RnS Addict timbo56's Avatar
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    Just replying to this as I can't find a way of bookmarking it. Excellent and informative thread.

  4. #23
    Needs Chevy barpilot's Avatar
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    Managed to fit the rings to the pistons in the kitchen the other night (warmer than garage). Then spent a morning learning how to fit spiral lock rings, trick was to start at 5 o'clock with the tab after stretching them out around half an inch.

    Got those sussed and all rods attached to the pistons.







    Dropped each piston into a tub of engine oil, lubed the bores and put assembly lube on the journals.



    Checked the orientation of the rings, fitted the big end bearings with yet more assembly lube and slid the first piston in with some gentle downward assistance.



    7 more later and I ended up with this.





    I've had to pack up as I'm headed to work for a few weeks tomorrow so can't complete it just yet.

    Done some research on the push rod length so will be hopefully borrowing a checker. (Stude Star's you have a PM).

    Also I've got the higher pressure spring for the standard oil pump from blackpopracing all ok.

    Back to reading my books whilst away so I can crack on as soon as I get back!

    Cheers for following.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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  6. #24
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie TheWebDesignCompany's Avatar
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    Any updates on this ?

  7. #25
    Needs Chevy barpilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWebDesignCompany View Post
    Any updates on this ?
    There are, I'll get photos uploaded over the weekend. Thanks for the interest!


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  8. #26
    Needs Chevy barpilot's Avatar
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    Better late than never:-

    After a while I returned from work overseas to find the block preserved as I'd left it and promptly forgot where I'd put everything.



    Nevertheless, soon I had the camshaft and timing gear boxes found and began fitting. I'd already had the cam bearings installed by the machine shop so I used the old cam sprocket I had on the end of the camshaft and with plenty of lube on the lobes and some wiggling it went home easily enough.





    Then I offered up the two sprockets and temporarily secured them on the crank and camshaft with the chain so I could get the clearance on the cam button correct.



    As this is a roller conversion I had to use a button that was provided in the kit to stop the camshaft from driving forward and deflecting the timing cover.

    I used the lathe to turn down the button to the correct size after several trials with a spare gasket and the timing cover. This took a while and I can't recall the clearance at the moment. Once I was happy with the timing, out came the loctite, torqued the sprocket bolts up and on went the timing cover with timing pointer.



    Post turned up and I received a brand new alternator and distributor clamp along with a few intake fittings for the heater matrix hoses, cylinder head blanking plugs, oil pressure sensor elbow and coolant temperature sensors adapters.



    At this point I found I wasn't going to be able to fit the harmonic balancer so went home and ordered a fitting/removal tool kit.

    Another update tomorrow for those interested




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  9. #27
    Needs Chevy barpilot's Avatar
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    Next on went the AFR cylinder heads, I found I'd not seen two coolant holes in them so order the necessary plugs.







    I've used standard head bolts as I intend to upgrade to ARP next time around just in case I have any build problems and not throw money away.

    Spun the motor over and final fit of my freshly painted new Moroso sump (again the Factory finish was horrendous).



    Moving on I'd already made sure the new lifters were oiled and moved up and down within the block without issue and drop them in.

    Harmonic Balancer fitting/removal kit arrived so I got on with fitting that.



    Now I could rotate the crank I chose to fit the push rods and guide plates then the rocker arms. Slow process adjusting everything one by one but I got there.





    On went the water pump. Fairly easy but decided to leave the pulley bolts length/adjustment until I had my other ancillaries in position for belt alignment later.





    At this point I needed to fit a 90 degree elbow at the rear of the block to allow fitment of my oil pressure sensor. You can just see it at the top of the previous photo. Fortunately on my dry build mock up I found the intake fouled the sensor so needed to turn it away somewhere.

    Intake on with accessory fittings inserted. Gasket overlap looks a bit **** so will cut down later with a scalpel and a beer/steady hand.







    Back at the front I fitted the bottom twin pulley and alternator bracket.



    Top hose fitting although new needed painting as the casting finish let the motor build down.



    Engine mounts next.



    Soon it's is the trial fitment of the motor, it gets interesting...







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  10. #28
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Nice.

  11. #29
    Official RnS Addict 35kid's Avatar
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    instead of using a 90deg fitting for the oil pressure gauge you might want to use a straight extension which will clear the manifold, might be easier to get the oil pressure sender on.

  12. #30
    Needs Chevy barpilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35kid View Post
    instead of using a 90deg fitting for the oil pressure gauge you might want to use a straight extension which will clear the manifold, might be easier to get the oil pressure sender on.
    I thought that might be the solution originally but found the distributor was then an issue with the overly large pressure sensor as I'm using Stack equipment. The 90 degrees sends if rearwards and the wiring tucks away to the chassis in the rear of the car now.


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