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Thread: Mk2 Consul

  1. #31
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Next up was plate to bolt to the prop flange. This will bolt in place and allow me to hold the pinion while installing the new crush sleeves. It takes 200 ft lbs to crush the sleeve so you need something the act against. The center hole allows a socket on the pinion nut. I'll be welding a boss to take a tube handle to hold the pinion and also a threaded rod to simulate the required rotational torque. Will finish this off soon


    Last edited by WB54; 27-08-2016 at 16:51.

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  3. #32
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    OK so continuing the diff rebuild, I' started stripping down both the 3.9 and 3.54 diffs. Holding the housing in the fixture made this easy, wish I'd bothered doing this before now. I'm not trying to retain any setting as I'll be using new bearings all round. I will however be using the carrier from the 3.9 as it has acceptable backlash on the sun/side gears, whereas the 3.54 carrier is excessive.

    I drifted out the pinion races, again nice and easy as the fixture held it and the case has notches to allow easy access with a punch. Both races and bearings were retained to measure versus the new bearings in the post. Comparing the bearing thickness is a basis check to ensure they are the same thickness and therefore hopefully flag any issues with pinion depth height




    Marked all the bits relevant to the case and retained everything. I carefully slung them all in an oil soaked cardboard box ready for everything to fall out the bottom



  4. #33
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Ring gear removed, it's not tip top but I think it'll be fine. It has some staining on the teeth from having sat but there's no real pitting, they'tre not shiney, no broken teeth etc so I think I'll be fine




    next job is to make a means of measuring rotational torque. An in lb dial torque gauge would be ideal but a low range gauge is beyond my budget for occasional use.

    I originally intended to use weight suspended a predetermined distance from the pinion centre, however I concluded that trying to reach a setting determine by weight distance might be problematic. What I need to measure is the rotational torque for a continuous turn. All bearings require an initial degree of effort to break the inertia and trying to determine this from the rotational torque will be a problem.

    The method I intend to use is wrapping a piece of cord around a known diameter spool fixed to the face of the drive plate. Pulling the cord should provide a rotation / effect reading on a simple balance scale. the tricky part is ensuring I get my calculations right and I' think I'm there with it but posting it here might flesh out some errors and explain my C grade at maths GCSE

    I intend to use a 2in spool, therefore the leverage acting on the pinion centre will be 1in, so really no great than the outer edges of the pinion nut and no real leverage affect, meaning what I read is a 1-1 ratio. I'll be using a spring balance which unfortunately only measures in lbs, so will need to think about how I convert it back into in lbs. If any clever bods what to chime in, please do so, as I'm not there yet !

    I've also ordered everything I need to complete the job, bearings, crush sleeve, gaskets, gear marking compound and a split bearing puller. Next job really is to properly clean the case which I'm not looking forward to, hate the stench of gear oil !

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  6. #34
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    For anybody interested, I've sourced reproduction moulded quarter light rubbers for Mk2 Consul, Zephyr and Zodiacs. I'm thinking of buying a batch in to make them cheaper overall. If anybody is interested in a pair, they'll be £200 a pair and would need a deposit up front.

  7. #35
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Progress on the diff rebuild. All reusable parts were cleaned in a bath of white spirit, really like using white spirit as its cheap and breaks down ****ty old oil well. With everything cleaned up, both the carrier and pinion bearing were pulled using a split bearing puller.

    Next up, I froze the outer bearings to be drifted into the case noting which outer went with each bearing.




    This was difficult, despite freezing the bearing the inner is always more difficult to get seated square, but perseverance paid off, inner took some effort outer went in fine.

    Pinion bearing was next making sure to retain the shim under the bearing specific to the pinion and case. There is a depth check to measure this which I haven't bothered with as I haven't swapped pinion or case. I'm assuming with the same number bearing, shim, pinion and case that the pinion depth won't alter, but the gear mesh pattern will show any major issues once backlash is set up......I hope.




    Pinion bearing drifted on using old bearing outers and steel tube, deep socket and a little squeeze in the vice for good measure.

    When the pinion was seated, the next job was to drift on the carrier bearings, again old bearing outers ensured the cage wasn't damaged, bother seated easily. That's all bearings prepped.





    Will be a few days before I can get back on it, but next jobs are to heat and install crown wheel onto the carrier and install pinion, crush sleeve and set preload
    Last edited by WB54; 04-09-2016 at 20:35.

  8. #36
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Update on the diff rebuild, pinion was built up and a test tightening to crush the sleeve. I got it to what I believed to be 14 in lbs and marked the nut. I backed it off, and installed the pinion sal




    Nest up, the ring gear needed fitting to the carrier, it wouldn't go on cold, so 20 mins at 230f in the oven fixed that. Wrap it in tin foil to contain any smell. Once heated it dropped into place



    Once cooled the the ring gear bolt were torqued up



    When the ring gear carrier had cooled, I could drop it into place to set backlash and carrier preload






    I messed about with it fir an hour trying to get 0.008 backlash and 0.008 preload but couldn't get it where I wanted it. Also with the pinion seal and carrier preloaded it's gone really tight, like opening a jar tight so I may need to look at pinion preload again.

  9. #37
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    OK so almost a year on and I’ve not achieved a lot other than finish the bits started last year. Diff is in, halfshafts bearing changed, all buttoned up. Had a drama with a spring I lost from the trans which retains the park pawl but managed to fab one out of piano wire.

    Front end was refreshed, new discs and pads, wheel bearings greased, new brake flexi and fully bled.

    Before I put the consul back on the road I wanted to build a new stainless exhaust system to replace the hacked abortion which somebody put on it. This was all buried under heat wrap, some people just should not work on cars



    The silencer in the system where these crappy motorbike cans, they gave no reduction in noise and were horribly raspy, to the point it made the car horrible to drive



    Whilst they were looking at me from the floor I thought I might be able to salvage the rolled stainless tips on them



    Which were then pressed into my 2.25” tail pipes and tacked in place



    These should finish off the system nicely



    Up to now, I’ve welded up the long lengths and mounted it using VW/Audi rubbers which come with a nice bracket to just bolt in place. Should have the whole system fitted up later this week and hopefully off for its MOT

  10. #38
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    oh and the reason for the delay is fixing the dragster took a lot longer.

    We did do a show over at Ford Dunton for staff open / fun day which seemed to go well and gave us a chance to fire the car up, set idle and timing.


  11. #39
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  12. #40
    Official RnS Addict MYTHING's Avatar
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    More pics of the dragster needed
    IT'S NOT GETTING WHAT YOU WANT...IT'S WANTING WHAT YOUVE GOT

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