now, a couple more updates for your perusal. last week, whilst waiting for my mate with the van to be available to go collect said engines, I turned my attention to the body/floors as the lack of engine to go in was hampering me finishing the rolling chassis, and the next logical step was to get some more metal and structure into the shell and floor, so it was strong enough to be lifted off so I can finish the chassis. at this point the floor crossmembers id put it to hold the shell at the right height and centred were just tacked to the chassis at the A,B and C pillars to keep everything in the right place. I had door bars in, but not much else. I needed to add in enough box section to make a full, solid sub-floor frame before the body can be lifted off.
first, I decided to get the rear inner quarters in that id bought at the swapmeet a couple of years back (!) as they would dictate the placing of some of the framing and panelling. there was still the brackets for them to bolt to at the C-pillars, which I just had to drill the old bolts out and tap, but id removed the mangled B-pillar ones when id steeled out the B-pillars. I tried straightening them up but they werent much use, so I had a root around in my steel stock and found some 13x13x5 angle iron I decided to use. I usually absolutely abhor the use of angle iron in cars, too many bad experiences with bodges done with it (including the original chass of this car!). theres very, very few scenarios to which angle iron is the right solution, but this was one of them- the first one in 5 years! I needed a half inch wide lip, that mounted at a right angle to the outer surface, that stepped out from the surface 6mm, but was thick enough to drill and tap to prevent me having to weld on individual nuts. so what I had was ideal. I simply cut a length, offered it up sticking out 6mm, welded it on, clamped the inner quarter to it (once id cut the lip off the edge), and then centrepunched, drilled and tapped through the mounting holes in it. quite easy really, and is a neat and tidy solution-
other side done as well-
youll also notice id started adding in the floor frame that runs from B to C pillar there, in 2x1 box, which sits directly over the chassis rails. heres another shot of it-
I decided to do it that way and in that size steel, as it means theres no dirt trap between the floor rails and the chassis rails, and it also looks neat and tidy and like the body and chassis are made for each other (Which they are!)
but this meant it didnt match the way id done the front half of the framing, as id used 1x1 for the bars that spanned the door gaps, and they didnt follow the chassis rails either. (you can jsut see the ends of them in the pic of the pass side inner quarter above)
so, I redid them, in 2x1 following the chassis rails, to match the rear-
I also added in a couple of diagonal braces, recycling the 1x1 id removed from the door apertures, making the front end of the floor framing being done bar for a prop hoop or two. you can see here how the trans tunnel is assymetrical, to allow clearance for the big bulge on the passenger side of the 'box, but give the driver maximum foot room-