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  1. #91
    dez
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    now, a couple more updates for your perusal. last week, whilst waiting for my mate with the van to be available to go collect said engines, I turned my attention to the body/floors as the lack of engine to go in was hampering me finishing the rolling chassis, and the next logical step was to get some more metal and structure into the shell and floor, so it was strong enough to be lifted off so I can finish the chassis. at this point the floor crossmembers id put it to hold the shell at the right height and centred were just tacked to the chassis at the A,B and C pillars to keep everything in the right place. I had door bars in, but not much else. I needed to add in enough box section to make a full, solid sub-floor frame before the body can be lifted off.

    first, I decided to get the rear inner quarters in that id bought at the swapmeet a couple of years back (!) as they would dictate the placing of some of the framing and panelling. there was still the brackets for them to bolt to at the C-pillars, which I just had to drill the old bolts out and tap, but id removed the mangled B-pillar ones when id steeled out the B-pillars. I tried straightening them up but they werent much use, so I had a root around in my steel stock and found some 13x13x5 angle iron I decided to use. I usually absolutely abhor the use of angle iron in cars, too many bad experiences with bodges done with it (including the original chass of this car!). theres very, very few scenarios to which angle iron is the right solution, but this was one of them- the first one in 5 years! I needed a half inch wide lip, that mounted at a right angle to the outer surface, that stepped out from the surface 6mm, but was thick enough to drill and tap to prevent me having to weld on individual nuts. so what I had was ideal. I simply cut a length, offered it up sticking out 6mm, welded it on, clamped the inner quarter to it (once id cut the lip off the edge), and then centrepunched, drilled and tapped through the mounting holes in it. quite easy really, and is a neat and tidy solution-




    other side done as well-


    youll also notice id started adding in the floor frame that runs from B to C pillar there, in 2x1 box, which sits directly over the chassis rails. heres another shot of it-


    I decided to do it that way and in that size steel, as it means theres no dirt trap between the floor rails and the chassis rails, and it also looks neat and tidy and like the body and chassis are made for each other (Which they are!)

    but this meant it didnt match the way id done the front half of the framing, as id used 1x1 for the bars that spanned the door gaps, and they didnt follow the chassis rails either. (you can jsut see the ends of them in the pic of the pass side inner quarter above)

    so, I redid them, in 2x1 following the chassis rails, to match the rear-




    I also added in a couple of diagonal braces, recycling the 1x1 id removed from the door apertures, making the front end of the floor framing being done bar for a prop hoop or two. you can see here how the trans tunnel is assymetrical, to allow clearance for the big bulge on the passenger side of the 'box, but give the driver maximum foot room-
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

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  3. #92
    dez
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    once id got that sorted, so I could see in my head where the floor panels, sill steps and gearbox/prop tunnels where going to go, I decided I needed to see about what was going to happen with the back half of the floor, which due to the big chop and channel job, needed to be sunk down below the height of the chassi rails to give me the headroom needed, and so I could see where I was going out the windscreen!

    I mocked up by clamping a sheet of ply across the bottom of the chassis rails, and chucking a seat pad on there, to see what the height was like. it was pretty good, I decided to space the floor up a further 1/2" though, so it sat half an inch above the bottom of the chassis rails, so of there was a car/floor interface in that area, the beefy box section chassis rails would take the hit, rather than the bit of tin under my !
    due to space constraints, the floor isn't just going to be the floor, the way ive designed it its also going to be the seat pan for the bottom half of some pseduo 'bomber seats', in that theyll be metal swaged and punched seat frames, but built into the floor.

    handily, I have these sitting around for the pickup(which are suprisingly comfortable)-


    which meant I had a set of basic dimensions to work around. using these measurements, and a bit of CAD to tell me what would fit the chassis-




    I had a template to work to. so I bought this-

    a sheet of 18 gauge steel (1.2mm). I them marked out a mirror image pair of seat pans, which incorporated one side of the pan in its shape. I elected to make the other side separately so as not to waste a lot of steel, doing it this way meant I was making 2x 23.5" wide panels out of a 4 foot sheet, so very little wasteage-


    cut out and swaged up-


    then, I had to figure out how to bend them up. I could really have done with a box-brake for this, but not lamenting the equipment I didnt have, I decided to proceed and find a way to do it with the equipment I did have. that being a 2 foot offcut of RSJ, some box section, and a load of g-clamps. you have to plan ahead a bit more with the order you do the folds in, but its doable with a little skill and perseverance
    part way through-




    a little tip for folding box corners- don't forget to step one edge back by the thickness of the overlap-


    almost done-


    rinse and repeat, and heres the pair of seat pans/rear floors temporarily clamped in place-




    you can see how tight a fit it all is, the inner sides of the seat pans will form half of the prop tunnel. the next panels to be made are the rear half of the prop tunnel and the side infill panels, which will incorporate the other side of the seat pan, and a little infill section to mate up with the floor framing. I think I'm going to have to have this whole section removable to allow the body to be taken off the chassis in future, so it will have to be bolted in rather than rivetted, at least around the edges.
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

  4. #93
    I'm a newbie !
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    Hi dez. I have just read this entire thread. I take my hat off to you. You do fantastic work. It will be a very cool car .
    Watch out for speed hump's, this thing is low.

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  6. #94
    dez
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    so, I was looking at buying an engine stand to rebuild/refresh/paint up the Y-block.
    a 'normal' one is rated to 200kg. fine for most dinky 4 pots.
    a 'heavy duty' one is rated to 300kg or so. fine for most v6s, small block v8s etc. quite pricey at £120-ish though. plus they're 'universal', which as we all know is code for specially designed to not quite fit anything properly :p

    before I bought one I checked up the weight of a Y-block on line. a complete engine with acillaires runs somewhere between 375-400kg depending on spec. hmm, almost a quarter over the recommended limit on a shop bought one.

    so I raided the steel stockpile to see what I had to make a 'Dez-spec'© engine stand........
    a short while later, I had this-

    a 3 foot square frame of 3mm wall 50x100 box, with a length of 5mm wall 50x100 for the upright, 4x sealed bearing castors rated to 3T a set, fitted into steel sleeves runnig through the frame, with a piece of 4mm wall 70mm pipe for the main pivot, drilled at 45 degree intervals to allow it to be tilted. should do the job

    I then made a engine-specific adapter to fit to it, out of 5mm wall CDS tube for the dowels for the bolts, 4mm wall 25x50 box cut and shaped to clear the flywheel, a big lump of 10mm plate, and a length of 4mm wall 60mm tubing, offset upwards from the crank, to balance the weight a bit better.

    another view-


    and then, the two mated together, the 60mm tube slid inside the 75 with a couple of mm play.




    id also drilled a 20mm hole and a 10mm in the 60mm tube attached to the engine plate, the 10mm hole lines up with the ones in the 70mm tube to lock the engine off at set angles once rotated, the other bigger hole now has a 2 foot length of 19mm thickwall tube slid through to serve as a lever to turn it, finished with a pool ball on each end

    suffice to say, it doesnt wobble, flex, tip or anything else it shouldnt do, cost a grand total of £0 in materials, and I knocked it together in an evening. deffo better than spending £120 on something id no doubt have to weld various bits to to makes strong enough!
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

  7. #95
    dez
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    I also acquired a battery box the other day. I was going to make a steel one up, but they always corrode so had my eye out for something else. a mate turned up this, which is the perfect size, in two ways- its internal dimensions are 7wx12lx10h, and the battery I want to use is 7wx11lx8h, so a perfect fit with enough room for a hold down and to get to the terminals. secondly, itll fit perfectly next to the fuel tank ive also picked up, but not shown you yet.
    it also fits nicely with 'restrained military/army surplus' theme.





    one thing I did find whist knocking/unscrewing the old divider bits out of it that made me laugh was this. this bit of wood to the right here, that was glued and screwed in-


    had this written on it-

    obviously they didnt bother chucking it after it had been used for a lunch run and just stuck it into one of the boxes they were making
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

  8. #96
    dez
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    ive been cracking on with the floors too.
    some scribbles plannig out the seat side panels-


    turned into a pair of these-


    which with a awful lot of marking out, centre punching, drilling, clamping, hammering and rivetting, attached to the sides of the seat pans, which I also rivetted up the joins on-




    I'm really happy with em, have turned out pretty nice I think, and they're very strong/stiff.

    so, I proceeded to make the next sections of floor, which are the big flat bits in front of the seat pans, as I decided that these would be better/neater tucked underneath the front of the seat pans as the floors are the bits that would never really need removing as theres nothing underneath them, so can go in first. I always try to layer the joins in a way that the bits that are least likely to need removing go at the bottom and are fixed down permanently(rivetted in this case), and the ones I know ile need out(such as the trans tunnel) at the top, with quick, easy to undo fixings.
    lots more marking, drilling, and swaging, and they're ready to start rivetting them in. I don't know if any of you have noticed, but I'm deliberately making the layout/design of the swages very simplistic on this compared to other builds ive done (the pickup for example), because of the age of the car and I don't want it all to look too 'busy' or complicated. I could have done them a touch simpler, but my OCD got the better of me in regards the maximum area without a swage and every panel having to have one, no plain bits!





    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

  9. #97
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie joe little's Avatar
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    Really nice job on the seat bases and floor pans, they look lovely!

    joe
    12.53 @ 107.2 mph home built 1700cc x flow! Faster than Dad....

  10. #98
    dez
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    i agree joe, but not as good as they look now

    wjilst everyone else was tossing it offhaving a nice day out at wheels day, I cracked on.

    I needed to get the seat pans and floors riveted down fully, but to do that I needed to figure out some sill/door jamb panels to go in and meet the floor. I had no idea what these were supposed to look like, plus couldnt find any pics of them online (theyre probably called something stupid in american), so I based the shape solely on the remaining metalwork at the bottom of the A-pillar, and folded a sloped step into them- all hammered in by hand to get the right profile with a beaded edge. then I made them suitably ostentatious with a few punched and flared holes to jazz em up a bit. I love the fact you cant see all that unless the door is open too.

    in progress, showing the large 60mm flare punch I made for doing the pickup roll pan, but now with a bolt added so you don't have to use the press every time.


    and fitted up, notice they follow the shape of the A-pillar perfectly, and are a really tight fit up to the other floor panels-

    I like the fact you can see the chassis rails (which will be painted black) through the holes.

    ground clearance check-

    more than youd expect really!

    then I trimmed down the seat pans, cut back some of the overlaps, and riveted and screwed the whole lot down.








    still got the other side to finish off yet, sill panel is made up but not holed and flared, and I'm about halfway through the rivetting. prop tunnel after that I think so itll all be enclosed then
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

  11. #99
    dez
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    ive been forgetting to update this, so heres a few in a row-

    me and choppy made another flare punch the other day, this time for 1-1/4"(32mm) holes. this size was based on the size of the holes in the helicopter seats for the pickup, cos I'm going to be partially copying them for this.
    I totally neglacted to take a pic of it, but its the same as on of these-
    Hole Punch & Flare - Swage Tool 3'' [MSTMB-1300-020]

    except it doesnt do the cutting, I use a hole cutter first, oh and its not 150 quid

    so, with this new tool in my arsenal I was itching to try it out on something, but what? I hadnt marked out or cut the seats yet, so it had to be something else. hmm, those doors look a bit plain......

    marking out/figuring out what spacing will look best-


    then I got a bit carried away, and didnt take any pics, but I boshed the hole cutter through a few times, filed the holes up smooth, ground and flapwheeled the door surface down smooth (it was pretty rough/corroded, with a thick layer of old paint), then used the punch to flare the holes. first row done-


    pretty good!
    lets do a few more-


    the view from inside-


    I still want to do the bottom bar too, but it needs some rust repair first, so itll have to wait. pretty happy with how they work though, this steel is nearly 2mm thick, yet the die/punch easily pull together with just an m10 bolt.
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

  12. #100
    dez
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    well, itme for a boring update to get me back into it after my holiday.

    before I went, I spent far, far too long getting the engine clean ready for paint, in the hope I could order the paint before I went and it would be here when I got back. except frost are out of stock of half of what I wanted, so I didnt bother doing the paint order as I didnt want to pay two lots of overpriced postage.
    I cant quite convey in words how much I hate cleaning and painting stuff. thats why usually, it just doesnt get done, or I find someone I can pay a few quid to do it for me!

    but, this time I had to do it myself, so approximately 20 hours of scraping, paint stripping, wire brushing, steam cleaning (best tool eVar for this!) degreasing, etc. etc. and I now have a clean engine block, sump, and timing cover. still got the heads, inlet and ancillaries to do!
    but yeah, a lot of this went on-


    clean sump, the only small dent knocked out, needs a whip over with the flapwheel to key before paint. you may notice ive swapped to a rear-drop truck sump as opposed to a car front-drop one, as I think they're a better looking shape, especially in an open-bayed rod, and I had no space constraints on which I colud use.


    timing cover all spangy inside and out-


    block all cleaned up, mostly with a wire wheel on a drill to remove all the burnt-on oil, paint, rust and scale from leaking core plugs, excess sealer, multiple layers of paint, etc. etc. tight corners were done with a carbide burr in the die grinder. it had a thick layer of very tough red paint over the upper/front portions of the block, which someone had obviously slapped on with the engine in-situ to tart it up. which was a curse word to get off. it still needs a final wash-down before paint, but otherwise its ready to go.






    this bit up around the back of the block was tricky, lots of fiddly corners-


    this is about half of what came off-


    so yeah, a shedload of work summed up in a couple of photos. : the inside of the engine is suprisingly good and clean though- theres some scale in the waterways as youd expect of a 60 year old american all iron v8, and a good buildup of oil sludge to wash off, but all the wearing surfaces are really good, and nothing nasty came out in the sump, only soft sludge, no gritty or metallic bits. I'm going to wash it all out with a strong degreaser, fully rebuild the heads- decoke the chambers, relap the valves and replace the valve stem seals, but leave the rest and reassemble with all fresh gaskets. if it needs rings or bearings, ile do it over the winter.

    hopefully my brass core plugs will be waiting when I get in tomorrow, and it can start going back together just waiting for front to get big cans of black POR-15 in stock again then. I will be using their gloss black engine enamel for the block/timing cover/heads/sump/bellhousing, loosely based on the factory colour combo for various parts, except done in black, if that makes sense. the ancillaries, inlet, valve covers, etc are then done with a mixture of semi-gloss black and satin black, to mix it up a little and along with a little stainless bling here and there, make it look 'detailed', but still very understated.
    ford model A sedan
    ' 38 hudson budget hotrod pickup build

    "Some are scared of being misfits- im scared of fitting in.'

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