thanks very much. ive been forgetting to update this tbh. expect a load more updates in a bit
well, more stuff has happened.
first, that spigot ring for the gearbox. it was all sorted for me by the ladies choice himself, mr mike D. no not that one, the one off here from grimsby who also has a taste for old tat. cheers dude, cant thank you enough
it looks like this-
which slots in here-
but first, it needs fitting to the gearbox. it goes on here, and as you can see, is a 'good' fit, so it cant fall out. a few taps with a hammer after this pic and it was down and on.
next, I found a half decent clutch release bearing out of the stash, welded up a bit of wear on the groove for the clutch release fork (it has a dimple worn into the side of it). no pics as it was a case of weld it quick then chuck a bottle of water over it to prevent frying the bearing. it was then filed up all smooth and was as good as new.
the clutch fork then needed the same treatment, as nearly hafl the pins were worn away!
ground and filed back square-
hopefully thatll be good for another 50+ years now.
next, I had to fit it all. slight problem here. id checked online I could fit the clutch fork and release bearing with the bellhousing and clutch on- not a problem according to a couple of f100 owners forums in the states.
this has lead me to conclude two things-
1. internet facts are just like normal facts, except not true.
2. never trust an american.
so after a lot of cursing, swearing, and scratching most of the paint id applied off the motor/bellhousing/engine mount, I had it back out, the bellhousing off, and the clutch arm back in. the bellhousing then went back on, and I decided to fit the gearbox so I didnt have to manhandle it under the car then jack it into position, as it weighs a f-king ton- I cant striaght-lift it by myself, I kind of have to 'roll' it onto the jack.
so, I got it on the jack and slid it into place. all good, spigot ring fits perfect, all clutch stuff links up A-ok. ive already drilled the bolt holes out big enough to allow for a fraction of misalignment on the bolts as their placement doesnt seem to be massively accurate(15mm holes for 9/16" bolts), so it should all go on ok, shouldnt it? err, no. 3out of 4 bolts go straight in no issues, the other one is quite a way out. so, meaga-heavy gearbox back off again to investigate, and I find this-
wtf?! yeah, american build quality is excellent aint it. for those not sure what they're looking at, the bolt hole isnt 'centred' in the lug on the gearbox- its over 1/8" too low and off to the side.
after a good session with the die grinder(and 3 more trial fits), its now slotted out to the correct position to allow the box to bolt up properly.
after much more cursing, the engine and box were now ready to go back in. I dangled it back in the hole, and I was fairly sure the extraneous rear tailshaft mount was going to cause issues. it did-
so, off with the yoke and the tailshaft housing, and a bit of this-
plus a bit of shaping and smoothing with the flapwheel that I forgot to photo, and it all fits fine now. all reassembled and sat back down on its mounts, and it looks like this-
very tight on space, bit it fits and thats all that matters.
next, I decided it would be good to get the clutch working properly, especially as I was needing to do it on my mates A I'm building too, so it made sense to do both at once. I needed to do a hydro conversion to do this (its linkage normally, bit I'm needing to operate it from the opposite side of the car now).
not having a clue what size cyl to use, I decided to opt for land rover ones, as theres 3 different bore sizes of slave available, and 4 of master, so if I cant get it to work with a combo of those its never gunna work! I decided to start with the most common setup, which is 3/4" bore master with a 7/8" slave, and see where that gets me as a starting point.
this is the slave cyl-
which I measured up and drew out a bracket for-
I'm picking up on two tabs on the bellhousing, which seem to be very conveniently placed for a hydro conversion and don't have any other use I can see, so its probably what they were intended for.
all cut out, ground up, holesawed and drilled, and bolted into position, we have this-
its a very tight fit to the bellhousing, but the master cyl bolts straight trough the bracket and the lower hole in the bellhousing, the bracket then extends up to the other bolt hole to stop it twisting. its all suprisingly stiff as it is to say its got a lot of force going through it and its only 1/4" plate, but ive left this outer edge a touch oversize for the minute so I can weld a 90deg. rib down the side if it does flex at all. theres minor misalignment to the cutch arm, but no more than a couple of degrees, and there was no other way of mounting it with the alignment any better, so itll have to do. the pushrod it the original 'pull' rod cut down and the domed bolt and locknut flipped over. theres loads of adjustment on it both way so I should be able to find its sweet spot without issue. ive just got to sort a 3/8" unf banjo fitting so it allows ample oil filter clearance, and then this end is done. id best sort out the pedal next then..........
a couple more pics of the setup-
well, a few haphaard updates, but all the bits here are loosely to do with the gearbox/driveline, so all couldnt be done til the 'box was in.
first- fit and reshape the shifter, again! although I had to chop the bottom off the other one and this one and swap them over (this isnt the original one for this box) as although the pivot ball and selector fork tang on the end of the rod were identical, they were 1/2" further apart on the newer box id fitted. this is good though, in a way, as it means it shortens the throw on the shifter even more. it just meant some chopping and heavy duty multi-pass welding (the shifter is 7/8" diameter at the bottom!) ive re-curved it so it fits around the dash nicely again too, looks pretty good I think-
then, youll have to excuse my total lack of pics for this, but I got carried away again and before I knew it it was done. but I basically made up the whole pedal assembly + associated floor framing in a couple of hours. it cleverly (well I think so anyway!) uses a couple of cut-down land rover series pedal boxes, flipped upside down, the cylinders flipped again to make em the right way up, then they're mounted at a slope to sit the cyls level, which just happens to be the perfect slope to join the current floor at the A-pillar up to the firewall. which is nice
very pleased with this lot! and a lot simpler than the top-swing setup I had planned . its all just tucked up below the bottom of the A-pillars so it don't stick down too. I'm going to re-make the pedal arms, cos to be quite frank they look ****e, but aside from that, only the bias-bar I'm waiting to be delivered to fit along with twin master cyls, and itll all be ready to plumb in!
oh, the other seat is mounted too. some random pics of making up the brackets-
note making maximum usage of materials- no wasteage here!
no pics of completed setup here though, ile grab some tomorrow, especially as ive now notched the rear crossmember to allow them to sit lower/more angled, which is a better seating position for me.
so next, I thought id throw some floor in the passenger side too, now I knew the angle it needed to be to replicate the other side. 3/4" angle iron used to frame this here, partially due to space constraints, partially so it can be drilled and tapped to mount stuff, unlike the 1.2mm wall 1" box section.
the strip down the outside edge will be put in at a different angle to allow for body mounts (and the throttle pedal on the drivers side)
ive started the tunnel too. this bit is the most important, as itll have all other bits mounted to it, and acts as a former for their shape. its 3mm strip (some 3/4" wide, some 1") wleded to a sheetmetal panel, so the 3mm can be drilled and tapped. it was a 'mare to weld up, it wanted to distort everywhere, I shoulda used 2mm plate! its almost-flat, and will be after a bit more fettling.
so, as I was all ready to put the tunnel in, it occured to me it might be sensible to do the prop first. youll see a few pages back id ordered all the bits from hauser to make it fit at both ends.
only issue was this-
its about 3 foot too long!
its originally from a 70s ford truck, possibly the same f150 as the gearbox came from as I got it off the same bloke. but, it has the right yokes and a slider, so its whats getting used.
I fitted the UJs, chopped it down roughly to slighlty over-length, mocked it in place so I could measure up properly, then marked up accurately and chopped the main tube down. I left the main tube attached to the non-slider end yoke, so I was only having to do one join/weld. I opted to keep this end fixed cos there was a dent in it at the other end id loose by doing it this way, plus it had less balance weights at that end.
the end squared up-
removing the seam off the inside. propshafts are nothing special really- they're made of exhaust tubing!
a centre divot added to the non-slider end so it can run in the tailstock, cos it didnt have one-
the slider section sperated, cleaned up, and the remains of the old tube/weld machined off so it can be re-introduced to the shorter tube-
then another large lack of pics due to great concentration on the job at hand, but the slider section was tapped into place making sure it was correctly phased, then it was set up on the lathe with the slider section in the chuck and the fixed end in the tailstock, and with the aid of a parting tool as a pointer, the runout was dialled down by tapping it side to side till it was right. once it was down to the thickness of the layer of paint on it (approx 0.25mm), it was deemed accurate enough, and choppy slowly and more importantly consistently turned the lathe by hand as I welded. once it had cooled we checked it again and it hadnt moved, so it was deemed good enough, so I cleaned it up, assembled it, wiped it down with some thinners and threw a tin of hammerite satin black spray all over it-
will it vibrate with it being unbalanced? aint got a f-king clue, but I really doing think it could be made more accurately, so we'll see how it comes out, and if it wobbles, ile get it balanced.
prop is in. [innuendo]its a tight fit. I cant even get a finger in there.[/innuendo] the side panels will straighten up a bit once the tunnel is rivetted in on top, but itll still only be about 1/2" each side. good job the motor mounts and rear axle location is so stiff, it shouldnt even be able to move much at all, even with 300hp through it.
heres the aforementioned notches in the rear X-member for the seats-
these have made the seats fit so much better, lower and further back. ile box em back in when I next have the seats out to finish the floor under em.
in other good news, ive found a source for the banjo union I need for the pedal assembly. id have thought 3/8" banjo with a 3/8" unf female thread to accept a normal brake pipe union would have been a reasonably common fitment. apparently not. ive got it sorted now though, I have one, so I should be able to get two more for the other cyls.
here it is in situ, showing the space constriants that necessitated it!-
as the clutch pedal is all sorted now bar for the plumbing and making a much better looking pedal arm with different pedal pads, I thought id crack on with getting the brake pedal up to the same stage, and start making the bits to fit the pedal pads.
the brake pedal needs modding, as ive decided to go for twin cyls over one big single one, for a number of reasons. firstly, everyone knows dual circuit brakes are safer. so thats the first plus point. secondly, the large 1-1/16" master cyl I would need to use is only fitted to certain american fords (f1 and f100 pickups having the one thats easiest to source- ive actually already got one that needs a rebuild). but one of these new is still around 80 quid by the time its shipped, even a rebuild kit is 40 quid, and would cost more if I was in need of one in a hurry and had to buy within the uk. I would then need a proportioning valve as well to dial the brake bias, which is at least 40 quid for a good one. so quite an expensive setup, and if it was ever to blow/leak, id be waiting for parts to arrive from the states. I prefer to not use obscure/difficult to souce quick parts for stuff like this, preferring wherever possible to use easily, cheaply available parts to prevent any future problems.
the equivalent of one 1-1/16" cyl in terms of piston area is two 3/4" cyls. I'm using the girling type, as used on most aftermarket bias pedal boxes, and conveniently fitted to every land rover from series 2 right up to current defenders! so, if I need a master cyl I can go to the nearest motor factors (wherever I am in the world) and get one brand new for about £15-20. or carry a spare if I'm on a big trip. or if I'm feeling really stingy, a seal kit is £2.50!
to go with these to obtain the bias adjust I will need, I'm going for a standard aftermarket bias bar setup.
I bought a supposedly 'new' one off ebay with the remote adjuster for 25 quid, which I thought was a good deal as usually just the bar setup without the remote cable is that much, then the cable another £20+, but it has turned up and is obviously used, has a part missing, and the knobhead charged £11 for a courier then sent it by royal mail for £2.70, so hes going to loose his 100% feedback. I'm going to have to make the tube to weld into the pedal cos its missing, but I don't have any tube the right size, so ile have to bore out some bar.
I made up a plate to mount the m/c's on at the right spacing-
and after a lot of ****ing around, measuring up, figuring out what clearance id need, cutting and shaping back, I then welded the plate into the cut-down landy pedal box-
I'm pretty happy with it so far, itll need a bit more bracing, but I cant add that til the bias bar assembly is done and ive tried it back in the car to see what clearance I have.
then, I had an idea for mounting the pedal pads, so went off and did that instead. these are the pedal pads some ©unt off here gave me a few years back as he thought they'd be perfect for it
he was right you know.
first, I trimmed down some 3mm plate holesaw holes to fit inside, then drilled out and countersunk them to accept a couple of 1/2" unf scimitar wheel studs I happened to have kicking round. I cut two 'sides' off the countersink to leave a gap to weld into, then stuck em together and smoothed em off-
you can kind of see there where the welds are^^.
then I took a couple of the corresponding bloody hugely long scabby old 1/2"unf scimitar wheelnuts, and tuned them down so they were round and clean with all the rust and old chrome off, then decided to make the back end a bloody big spike, just cos I can really :p
I wanted the back to be capped off so you cant see the thread there.
a pair of the spikes with one of the donor nuts in between-
the stud thats now attached to the pedal pad then screws into this, and will eventually have a 1/2" halfnut added as well once I order some cos I cant find any 1/2" bolts to turn down, which will mean to can lock it off with the pedal in the 'upright' position easily, cos things like the pedal rubbers not being straight would annoy the hell out of me!
here it is together, the bit spike bit will be welded to the top of the new pedal once I get round to making it-
start with this-
the 'new' used bias bar assembly off egay.
I had to make the tube the bearing slides in cos it was missing.
its here on the left-
along with the original main pivot tube cut out of the original pedal, and its oilite bearings. plus the new pedal arm below that.
heres the new arm next to the old one, before I chopped it up for the pivot-
as you can see, ive changed the shape and slimmed it down a bit. youll see why next update.
after an inordinate amount of swearing and pi$$ing about, I had it all welded together with the tubes true in all directions, and reassembled it all, with the bias bar, then marked up and cut down the pushrods.
lots of pics of the 'finished' assembly. finished in that it works. jsut gotta make it look good now-
and in-situ. this is the 'up' position- pads sit upright, and a bit further back(which is technically forward) compared to the original arms, giving me a bit more legroom.
and all the way down- the pedal should never actually reach this position unless osmething has gone wrong, but even then it still don't hit the firewall-
hopefully next update theyll look a lot better that this, then theyll truly be finished.
have some more pics.
today, of me making the pedal assembly look nice-
hopefully the shape of the top bit makes more sense now. a added some 1/8" plate cut into strips that taper from top to bottom, welded on to make it an I-beam. looks pretty nice I think. the pics make it look messier than it is for some reason, the welds are quite neat. now I look at in pics the holes I drilled look too small though. I might bosh through each one a few mm bigger tomorrow I think. need to have another look at it really.
but, here it is all done-
you can also see ive been messing with putting the piece of floor I cut out back in, but with flared holes for the master cyls. unfortunatley it hasnt quite worked out how I had it in my head, as the cyls sit a bit too low, and are a bit too close together so the flares overlap. I think I can make it look right with some hammer work, I'm still not sure on the cyl height though...
I was thinking something like this might work, but they cant be plastic so id have to make something-
Raceparts Integral Master Cylinder Extension Reservoir - JJC Race & Rally
problem is they don't appear to be a standard thread form, so I'm not sure how id make them screw on.
ive got a couple of other ideas that might be more fruitful yet though, I need to have a play with some parts and see.
I made pedal number two-
its an exact copy from the pivot up. I left the original L-R bit at the bottom though as there was little point chopping it off only to mode something basically identical. it needs final finish/polish/smoothing tomorrow, plus the speed holes adding. you might also have noticed the speed holes in the other pedal have got a bit bigger, looks better for it I recon. I'm getting close to having the pedal assembly sewn up now, not far of plumbing em in so they work!
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