The 'One of these Days' T Truck.
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  1. #1
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    The 'One of these Days' T Truck.

    If you’ve seen this on the NSRA site then pass by. I just thought I’d add the postings here for anyone who doesn’t visit that site.

    I thought I’d add my car build. The following underneath are all the relevant details copied and pasted. Soon I shall start again in earnest…..
    I’ve had to take a breather from the build for financial and health reasons, BOTH were put under great strain to get to where I am now. However being able to drive it onto the show field at Billing this June (Even if unfinished) was a buzz and I’m keen to get a move on now….IF the puddle in the garage ever tries up!!!




    29-11-10
    I always wanted to build something original and different. As a teen I bought Custom Car and Street Machine and LOVED the wild creations from the likes of Ray Christopher and Nick Butler. In fact Revenge is still my all time favourite car. (If the owner of Revenge is listening, when it’s back on the street there’s a beer in it if I could just have one ride in it).
    In the mid to late eighties I built my first proper modified car which was a Honda Acty pickup with a 1275 Mini engine trans etc all mid-mounted. This made it to a Garry’s Picnic and all in all I had a ball. Sadly however something broke and sent the tail sideways which resulted in a 2 ½ turn barrel roll and a totalled Honda.
    Nothing much changed in the Knowledge stables after that. A Dodge B100 van doesn’t count for much as a Rod or Custom.
    Late in the ‘90s I was wondering what I could build and thought about my old Honda. I had a Rover V8 that my brother had given me just before the roll and I had thought of dropping it into the Honda. It had sat around for some time just begging to be used. This is when I had my inspiration. I’d seen pics of a mid-mount Ford special in a Petersons press ‘How to build a Street Rod book’ and although a nice enough idea was a little impractical for the UK. So I thought “How about a T truck in the same style and size as my old Honda?”
    So I sat down with a pencil and paper and doodled a few ideas and came up with the ‘Woody’ look. I approached ex prez Nick Harrison and asked if he could fashion up the doors. Deal struck I supplied him the two front A posts and billet hinges along with detailed drawings and he set off to make them. Back in darkest Northampton at our engineering shop I set too and started cutting steel box for the chassis.
    Now some people love to sort rust on an old body, and although I can do it I must admit I’m far happier with new metal and parts. This fact is reflected in the way it took me MONTHS messing with my now sold 100E but yet I started with some box section on the Monday and working after hours in the evenings and that weekend rolled out a finished rolling chassis on the next Monday morning.
    All seemed well but I’d made a big design faux par. In the desire to keep it short I’d taken the Rover prop apart and created a single UJ with a flange front and rear. Now although a Jag IRS third member doesn’t move there will still be flex in the frame and engine and box mounts so it was quickly realised that my BW35 Trans would break its tail shaft casing under the strain. After cutting the frame at the rear to lengthen it I got just a little disillusioned and then just to ruin everything the entire machine shop along with the doors Nick had made and I’d since collected were plunged into 18” of flood water. The doors almost survived, but as they dried the Maple split and warped. The result was two dead doors.
    I shelved the whole thing and waited for the day I could resurrect it.
    Fast forward to end 2009 and life has changed for me. Now divorced and struggling on with a 100E Anglia I was thinking of how time was moving on and realised that if I didn’t make a push to build a Rod now I most likely never would. So I decided to sell my 100E and bring back the Truck.
    Following my original posting “So what do you think” I was pleased by the positive responses and decided to push on. The frame has now been lengthened so that a ‘short’ prop can be fitted in, which in itself is not such a bad idea as the wheelbase is now 90”. Another Rover and GM180 Trans obtained and soon I should have a rolling chassis again. Sadly my late Father retired in 2000 and I no longer have a full machine shop at my disposal, but that will just present problems rather than obstacles. My new job as a design engineer gives me a full on 3D engineering design package to work on (Solid Works) and it’s JPEGs from that you see here along with an old B&W photo of the Truck from the ‘90s.
    After pondering a few things I decided that this Rod should have a name. Considering its 13-14 year delay in production and my love of Pink Floyd there can only be one name for it. I give you the “One of these days” Model T Truck.


    Pic of the Truck as it was in the ‘90s.



    Pic from my PC.



    Model ‘man’ is 6 foot tall.
    Last edited by Knowledge; 17-07-2012 at 13:02.

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  3. #2
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    ((I'd also found my old photo's from the 90's so added them)













    Following a Q about the 3D drawings I posted this)

    30-11-10
    As for all these 3D drawings I know what you're saying, but these aren't just pretty pictured. They are 3D virtual reality solid models. I'm designing the whole thing in SolidWorks then generating the drawings to make the parts. Whengparts is right now making me some bits from drawing an DXF format supplied (See below). So much easier to work like that as it takes the guess work out. I also get a better idea how it will look once made. Oh! and one other thing this drawng package gives me. I also know how much it will all weigh, centre of gravity, roll centre etc...








    18-12-10
    OK a bit of an update. Rear of the frame has now been extended (And strengthened). IRS mounts added, along with a front dif 'loop' from Pop Browns'. Gearbox loop with radius rod brackets and trans bracket. Since these photo's (Read this morning) the radius rods have been completed and fitted in. Spent the afternoon figuring out the floor frame for the cab and how it will mount. Sadly I just realised my rear wheel nuts are the wrong thread so I may 'not' have a roller for Christmas....

    Dear Santa, along with the customary orange in my stocking this year can I have Jag wheel nuts not wall-nuts???



    Frame finally back together after about 12-13 years.



    Central trans loop with 6mm thick bracing (Thanks to Whengparts)



    Diff all mounted (Radius rods under reconstruction) I've used plain bosses for the 'arm' ends of the rods as I find the use of spherical bearings a bit odd at a point where nothing moves.
    Last edited by Knowledge; 17-07-2012 at 13:11.

  4. #3
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    29-3-11

    Well it’s been a while since I posted anything but that’s because I’ve been busy where I belong… IN THE GARAGE. Prop-shaft has been obtained from Bailey Morris in Eaton Socon.

    At the front I’ve fabricated the steering shaft (VW transfer box to rack). At the front of that the VW box has one of its isolators to cut out high frequency vibrations but I had to do some searching to figure out how to connect to it to the shaft. Mad thing is I discovered that even though a VW is metric the splines are Imperial, and just to get even more silly turns out I had just the job already in the garage. So that larger front splined part of the shaft in pic 2 is the top of an Escort steering column (Yep the bit the steering wheel goes on) the other end is the part that fits to the UJ on a rack. Demon Tweaks supplied the UJ and the tube between is actually a section from a Fiesta steering shaft. The front tube the VW box sits on hasn’t been welded on as I shall next form the front face of the cab and that tube is the lower section.


    The Cab floor has been fully welded up and brackets added to it and the main chassis to bolt the cab on with. Polly bushes fit between to damp noise. The master cylinder sits on a bracket in the centre of the Main chassis front tube, and gets ‘pushed’ by a cut off section of Fiesta brake tube. In the Fiesta this takes pedal movement from the RHS of the car to the MC which is still sat where it’s used on a LHD car. Under floor pedal is VW bus. I ground off its original pivot boss and that left a hole that just happened to be the same size as the Fiesta tube. By rights this means that to remove the cab I just need to remove the pin from the MC push-rod, Disconnect the throttle, Wiring, shifter cable, heater hoses, remove the four bolts and the lot will lift off (I’ll show how later).

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  6. #4
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    21-7-11
    Well it’s been some time since I wrote anything about how the truck is coming along but I have been rather busy. With the rolling chassis designed and fabricated it was time to strip it all down again and recondition all the bits necessary. The rear IRS came in good condition and needed little done to it. That said I did have the usual ‘squeaky bum’ time with the bleed nipples. No worries though as I used the three most valuable tools you can have. The correct fitting hex socket, WD40… and patience.
    The front however is a different matter. All of these parts were as made by Ford in the late 70’s so needless to say not that pretty. Now some of you may not like my decision, but I want to keep the original sub-frame, arms, and all that goes with it. I had originally intended to use ‘polly’ bushes in all the places available but decided against it as I had heard that these are great for a performance Ford, but make everything very harsh and clunky. In the end this car is for cruising and enjoying the drive not for speed, and there was also the difference in costs. The biggest problem with the Mk3,4,5 Cortina was those chassis bushes as they allowed the whole front clip to wobble about in the front, quieter yes by not a nice ride. I’m hoping the fact I’ve solid mounted the sub-frame will help there.
    All the parts stripped and checked I set too on the arms with just a hand grinder with a rather vicious ‘twist’ wire wheel (I highly recommend these but you MUST use a full face mask and thick gloves) a coat of red oxide and black later these look reasonable but will get a second going over at a later date. I made my own bush extractor from a long 10mm stud and various tubes and collars and after removing the old bushes forced brand new ones in. All the old ones were in good condition but I wanted to be sure this truck is safe to drive.
    The sub-frame was never going to be possible even with time and the hand tools so a trip to the sand blasters and £40 later the whole lot was again shot in red oxide and black. For now I’ve just removed the old engine mount brackets, but again at a later date this will get some considerable work to make it a whole lot better looking. Yes I could make a new sub-frame and suspension arms from box and laser cut brackets, but I like a challenge, and to me the original parts look more robust.
    The front uprights as I’ve said before are Cortina Mk3 but with P100 (Cortina Mk4 shape) hubs and brakes. Sadly the discs are no longer available, but I’ve already designed a pair of adaptors to take the available Cortina discs. Time and cash has made these a later project. It’s true I could always just use the Mk3 hubs, but I want the matching Cal500 slots and they’re Jag/Chevy 5 stud pattern. New bearings fitted I’ve used the callipers as bought as they’d already been reconditioned.
    I’ll rebuild the suspension this weekend but it will be minus springs. I’ve yet to source these but will need the total front axle weight to know what poundage I need. I’ll post pic’s of the suspension later this weekend. But for now here’s a pic of the frame all painted.

    OK so now to todays toils. I decided to get Paul (Whengparts) to laser cut the front panel for me, if you’ve ever tried to hand cut a sheet of steel like this you’ll know it’s freckin hard work. Fortunately as I have the technology at my disposal so I drew it, sent a drawing to Paul, and waited for the part. At this point I’d like to thank a National courier for their work in getting the part to me. I’d LIKE to but I figure a 14 day search to find where they left it gives them the big thumbs down. With the cab front welded together the panel was slowly stitched into place 10mm inset to create an ‘echo’ of how the wood at the rear will look (Frame with ply panels behind).
    To hold the window rubber in a strip of 3 x 10 steel has been tig welded around the inside of the window opening. A pair of steel strips 25 x 5 x 100 were then welded to the rear of the front and these bolt on a pair of angle iron brackets, thay in turn have a 30 x 30 box and more angle across to make the frame the dash will be assembled on. Four 8mm button-head socket heads will hold the whole dash on.
    Finally the front was welded to the floor assembly with a temporary post to hold it up at the rear, and a scrap strip tacked from the lower window edge and the temp’ post to hold the whole lot square while I make the rest of the cab.
    It’s a strange feeling. I first drew a pencil sketch of this car right back in the late 90’s. I’ve doodled ideas and designs for this for years. I’ve had the 3D model on my pc for at least a year, and before that the original 3D model on my AutoCAD machine. The frame parts were made over a decade ago. But today for the firt time EVER I got to stand back and look at the whole thing as a REAL thing. It’s magic moments like that which make us build...Later peeps.







  7. #5
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    24-7-11
    OK so here as promised are pics of the suspension as assembled today. As you can see the arms were rather sorry for themselves having spent many years under the front of a rusting Cortina. However a clear up with the afore mentioned wire wheel and a lick of paint and they look half decent. These like the sub-frame will get a fettle and much better paint at a later stage, but for now they’re clean and safe with all the new bushes.




    So on to today and a nice warm afternoon with a spanner or two was enjoyed and the rolling chassis is ready for wheels. As seen there are no springs in there yet. I will add them at the end once I know the all up front axle weight.





    2-8-11

    OK so yesterday I finished welding up the main structure of the cab. The back will bolt on and be made out of steel box and either sheet panels or plywood (Yet to decide). The frame for the dash as previously said is made and the column mount fabricated. Having curved slots means I can adjust the wheel position. As you can see the wipers are mounted into the top of the frame and the motor will be in the overhead console.
    So today I brought it home with help from a tolerant friend Adrian (Lem) and we dropped it onto the four Polly bushed mounts. Four bolts and a little tweak with a screwdriver later and she was on. Wheel and dash frame added I sat behind the wheel for the first time. Special thanks to John Shakeshaft for putting up with me while I borrowed his shop and all its equipment. Don’t you just love those milestone moments?














  8. #6
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    17-8-11

    Ok time for a little update. As you can see the cab now has a frame for the back half. This is made from thin-wall 50 x 50 box to keep weight up high down to a min, otherwise she’ll roll like a barrel in the harbour. There’s a pair of ‘bars’ across the back and these are what the harnesses will pass through on their way to my shoulders, the anchor point being on the main frame for the cab.



    Windscreen wipers are now installed, although yes if you’ve realise I DO have to slightly dismantle them to put them in, Hay! How many times do you need to remove them? As the Mini wheel-boxes come with angle cut rubber scuttle mounts I needed to turn up the Ally bosses seen.




    With that done before the engine is sorted and gets in the way I’ve added the brake and fuel lines. As you can see there are twin SU pumps that send petrol through two lines. These will go to a Zenith carb each, but there’s a balance pipe between each so I guess I ‘could’ run just the one pump at a time and have the other as reserve. With both running I won’t suffer fuel starvation. All this is a bit of whimsy as I believe one would do, but I like symmetry. CBS do the neat Fuel/Brake clips. NOTE: you have to cut the ‘boss’ part off and then after hammering that in to a 6mm hole thump in the ‘clip’.



    18-9-11
    There’s a stage we all get to in a build where it all becomes less about parts and the whole thing becomes a car. Usually this point is the first time you start the engine. Well I’m pleased to report I now have a CAR. Had a few hurdles to get over this weekend. Wrong oil filter meant a trip back to the motor factors to change it. Both SU pumps failed to work and had to have the points in them scraped off (Re-build is a must), but with two coffee jars on the floor full of petrol and pipes from the pumps dangling in them I nervously turned the key and after a few missed beats up she went. I obviously only ran it for a few seconds as the block is dry even though the rad and hoses are all connected, but with those few seconds of burbling 8 I know have a living breathing car…oh! And a huge smile.



    26-9-11

    OK been very busy as you can expect. Pick-up steel frame is now finished and back at HQ. Note the idea is to have a steel frame and then on top of this is going a wood frame held on with coach bolts through those ‘tabs’ sticking up. Wisbech rod ends make both the hinges and the front mounts. The front edge of the frame rests on a pair of rubber bumpers on brackets welded to the rear of the cab. Note the front mounts are flipped out at the edge so it fits over the rod ends easily when dropping it down. A single double trailer arch has been cut in two to make two front arches, next thing is to fold up the sheet metal to form the floor, seat base, and inner arches, Back will get sheets of steel to fill it in, and the roof will soon have wood atop to stop the rain getting in.












  9. #7
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Knowledge's Avatar
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    (Test was on the 26th. Car broke during the test so is now being changed to suit IVA test regs)

    29-10-11

    OK so I thought I’d post pics of the car as it stands now. I shall say it for you; this car wasn’t ready and as you can see is far from finished. I gave it my best shot but just ran out of hours (And energy). That dash isn’t exactly a ‘Trad style’ but I was tied by the rules of the now defunct SVA, so please remember when you see it later that the IVA makes even MORE demands on parts used being to ‘safe’ standards. The switches on the panel below the clocks will all but one have to go, and even then I may just opt for a set of matching IVA ‘ok’ switches.
    Ride height at the front is very low and will have to be adjusted by new springs and a bit of bodywork massaging. To that end does anyone have a set of corner scales? Paint as I’ve said is temporary, and the seats are Metro for now. I also think the harnesses will have to go for SVA (Edit IVA), but then I’d prefer inertia reels anyway. Regardless of the failed attempt this Wednesday I’m proud of what I’ve achieved this year. This was too much car to build with so little time and money. NOW however I can look at this as a solid base and fix and build as I wanted and as it SHOULD have been.
    I did a little investigating this morning as I had it out for these pics and it appears there’s no power going to the electric fan (EDIT: Was actually a wiring fault induced by lack of sleep) . Hose blew as she boiled over through lack of cooling. I was just so tired it never occurred to me the fan hadn’t kicked in. Rushed jobs are NEVER wise and I always knew I’d have to test, tune, and sort things after the test, but now I can do that ready FOR the next one.








    3-3-12
    OK so here's the latest jigsaw piece in place. One of the things I didn’t sort out before was the engine age. The fact this Rover V8 has a start to its number of 11A says it was an SD1 Auto, but that’s all. For IVA It’ll be tested according to age of the engine on emissions so I needed to PROVE the engines year of manufacture. So I contacted the Heritage Motor Centre at Gaydon through their website Archive Services | Heritage Motor Centre and filled in the online form. The form is actually the car one you use to get identity details for most of the old British marques but can be used JUST for an engine. Instead of vehicle add engine type [Rover V8] and instead of VIN number put the engine number. Costs £21 plus post and I got this letter this morning (Took 4 days). So… Engine is a 1977 Rover SD1 Auto.



    And that’s where I’m up to. Had a 9 month rest and now ready to push on.
    Last edited by Knowledge; 17-07-2012 at 13:07.

  10. #8
    Compulsive chicken choker English Impala's Avatar
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    Keep the updates coming I was enjoying this thread over the road.

  11. #9
    Official RnS Addict ifan.miller's Avatar
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    this looks very interesting, reminds me of the belcher beer truck

  12. #10
    Boogie vanner Evil McNasty's Avatar
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    Saw this on the trailer leaving Billing and thought it looked interesting..... didn't know it was you Wazock............
    "…si quid habet mammas vel rotas, res habebis difficiles aliquando,"
    "Carpe diem" -Quintus Horatius Flaccus (65 BC – 8 BC).

    What Would the Dude Do?

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