RPU in the Philippines.
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  1. #1
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    RPU in the Philippines.

    I started this nearly a year ago, when we moved to the Philippines. I bought the 'glass body in the UK and basically built everything else.



    The body was soon rent asunder for shipping:



    After we arrived in the PI and I finally found a place to work, I glassed a plywood floor into the body, and re-attached the rear half to the front.





    My old racing buddy from years ago has loaned me a mock up 350/350 combo, and a tunnel ram. Lodged 'em together to see what they look like and to work out where to cut for clearance. I won't actually be using it, as he wants $1000 for it and it is not really practical for a road car.





    I cut out the floor to clear the motor. No room for size 13 boots in there, I fear. The tranny tunnel will need to be pretty close fitting to leave as much foot room as possible.



    I've scored an unlimited supply of 40 x 80 x 3 box section from a local scrap man, basically brand new steel, but painted white for some abandoned project.



    The rails were sliced at the rear to tweak 'em in a couple of inches. I never thought this out properly and put too fat a cut in, with the chopsaw. Here is my 'bender and tweaker' apparatus, to ease each one into line:



    I took my jigsaw to the front ends, to have a go at that tubular thing so many people do. Seems to have worked so far, just got to do a little hammering and welding some time:







    I'm going for a bit of a cartoony look, so the motor will sit rather high in the chassis, and I decided to make everything sit above chassis rail height. Thus I marked the shape out on the billiard table flat garage floor in pen. The roads here are abysmal in places, with huge speed bumps of random size and shape, thus I'm opting for a minimum 6" under the lowest point of the car.

    My buddy forced a pair of huge Mickey Thompson 14" wide tyres on me too, but I already have wheels and tyres, so they will be put to one side for a rainy day. (not many of them in this part of the world)



    I've scored a 9" rear axle too, just the right width, but it needs new bearings. 3:0 ratio as well, so it should be okay behind a TH350 in a light car like this.



    Triangulated four bar in position, with temporary gash square tube links:



    A bit of diagonal stiffness added:



    My attempt at 'frilling it up'



    I'm thinking about putting my 6v/71 blower on it, or probably just a Performer manifold and an Edelbrock 600 carb for now. I do fancy a blower, and it'd be fun making all the drive and stuff up.



    I've discovered the 'paint' on the box section is powder-coat, so that is going to be fun to remove.











    Just 30 feet away is wild jungle full of creepy crawlies and snakes and stuff.

    Last edited by King Herald; 01-05-2011 at 19:46.
    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

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  3. #2
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Mounting the Corvair steering box, requires an angled oddball bracket, cut from 3/8 steel:





    Looks like it'll work:



    Tacked in place, Pitman arm end lines up exactly with the hairpin end: good geometry. Clearances look a little tight between the various links, but at ride height it is all good. A little heating and tweaking of the steering arm may be required, but not much.



    I rose jointed the cut off Model A hairpins, inserts and joints from Summit Racing



    Cleared away all the rubbish, blocks of wood, trolley jack etc:





    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  4. #3
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Onto the front end:

    I found an 'auto surplus' yard locally that let me dig around and I dragged away a pair of complete front of hubs of something apparently called a 'New Porter', whatever that is. It was chalked on the disc. I think L300 was mentioned as well.

    I've made up a caliper bracket, got the caliper hung, but I still need a couple of adaptor sleeves making to sort the bearings out. I made the mistake of buying bearings to fit the spindle before I bought the hubs, as I originally intended to make the hubs to suit, as I (thought) I had suitable Corolla discs and calipers, but it turned out they were not a matching pair. I got ripped off....


    Oddly enough, the hubs have Ford stud pattern, but strangely I have Chevy pattern wheels for the front, and Ford for the rear end. I might just swap them for something that fits straight on, Ford all round, save more engineering.



    The top extra area is for when I mount some cycle fenders and will be cut and shut to suit. Gotta think ahead.





    The whole plot fits quite deeply into the wheel, and I'll make some sort of ally old-timey vented cover for it one day, maybe...



    Just lashed into place with some washers and spacers, to set disc clearance.



    Last edited by King Herald; 09-11-2011 at 15:58.
    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

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  6. #4
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Oops, double post.
    Last edited by King Herald; 01-05-2011 at 19:18.
    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  7. #5
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    I've made up a steel tube sub frame to go inside the glass body, to stiffen it up, give a little collision protection, allow seat belt mounts etc. It was welded solid in three sections, outside the car, then installed and fully welded together in place. Some more crosspieces were added where the dash will eventually go, to tie the front together.



    Back half went in first.









    I'll glass it in place, and if I can find some of that squirt-in expanding foam I'll use it to bond and goo it all solid inside the glass.

    The square 'cut out' at the rear is for the prop shaft tunnel to go.
    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  8. #6
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    I made a transmission tunnel from thin plywood then shaped it and glassed it over.









    Cobbled together my four bar out of some seamless pressure tubing bought locally. 4mm wall thickness, nice and strong.



    5/8" Rose joints and threaded inserts from speedwaymotors.com



    Chrome is not too pricey over here, so I may think about getting all this sort of stuff shinied up, maybe even thee whole rear axle casing.

    Some oddball shocker/light brackets, going for the 50's show car look.



    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  9. #7
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    Time to knock up a propshaft:

    Cut an old one to length, found a length of 1/4" wall steel pipe that was a very close knock in fit, (just happened to have 8" laying in my parts pile, funnily enough) I then drilled the prop shaft a few times for some strategic keyhole welding, acid dipped the ends of the shaft, (Muriatic acid, available by the gallon here) to get the rust off, indexed the ends, pounded it all together and welded it securely.



    The pipe was galvanised, so I ground it off where the welds will be. I think it melted and ran inside though when i was welding, as some of the weld spattered like buggery.







    It is currently awaiting a layer of red oxide and some black gloss. And I bought a new paint brush today especially for it.

    No, it is not balanced, and yes, it is probably a bit out of true, but I'll fit it in place and see how it looks when spinning and take it from there.

    One more job off the list.
    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  10. #8
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    I needed to lose a touch off the lower frame rail, for the prop shaft to clear, so I took Mr. angry grinder to it and then welded in some 4mm flat strip to strengthen it.



    Also added some outriggers to the rear kick-up, for the roll bar to attach to at a later date.



    A radiator was required, so today I went to the auto surplus shop and bought a brand new three row jobbie, less than £90. It is a snug fit in the radiator cowl, but the bigger the better, I reckon.



    I made a cross member and some brackets for it to sit in. 1/4" rubber sheet will protect it from wear and tear on the somewhat 'unkempt' roads over here. Some removable side plates will be bolted in to support it also.





    I've welded most of the chassis and the rear axle bracketing. I love it when a weld goes down like this.





    It is the centre part of the triangulated four bar linkage.

    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  11. #9
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    A bit more today, in between going to the hospital for a painful ear infection.

    I decided to use all the old Model A joints for the steering, no idea what they are called, so I had to bend a few levers and extend the drag link, make a pitman arm etc.

    I needed the Model A bottom ball and the Corvair top spline , so some cutting and grinding and welding was required, then some bending to line it all up. Tomorrow I will grind it all smooth and check the welds, then cut and weld a plate that follows the rear of the arm, top to bottom, welded fully around, strong and discrete. The bits in the background are the redundant ends.



    Bit of heat to coax it into shape.



    Steering arms needed raising a touch to clear things. Mr gas Axe assisted most ably here.





    Bit crowded in here, but it all clears. That welding on the drag link looks awful in photos, but not too bad in the flesh. :? I keyhole welded the extension tubes on in a couple of places, as the drag link was solid 5/8 bar and I used seamless 'pressure tube' to stretch it.

    All the bolts holding the dampers etc are just temporary mock-up stuff, as are the wheel 'studs'.

    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

  12. #10
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Finally rolled it out into the warm sun for the first time today.











    Never make the mistake of thinking that the rut you're in is really a groove.

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