sd1 1983 wide arch (two door) MONSTER v8 - Page 4
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  1. #31
    Official RnS Addict DCTim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monster v8 View Post
    It has been done before once or twice
    I know, the top pic is what I saw before. Not a fan but hey, each to their own

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  3. #32
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCTim View Post
    I know, the top pic is what I saw before. Not a fan but hey, each to their own
    ths is true, i thought you where saying why a ford spoiler sorry,,,,,, i just want to try and keep it period in the looks and this seems to be what was going on in the early 80s but i am with you on this one as i have had the spoiler or 3 years and was not going to use it. i am going to have two tail gates painted and if i dont like it i will change it for the standad tail gate, i think it looks nice on the yellow one but we will just have to wait and see what it looks like when it is all on.

  4. #33
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    the rover sd1 vitesse spoiler would look much better imo.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  6. #34
    Official RnS Addict ironman56's Avatar
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    Stick with it dude..its looking good!! ..Remember seeing one in street machine years ago..might have had a few inches chopped out the middle..
    Fitted plenty of kits and stuff using the trusty p40..filler/paste fibre-fill etc..no probs with kits bonded from one to the other,
    metal to fibre glass etc....
    just remember not to put the stuff over paint, as it will lift, clean bare steel is always the best to bond/fill over..
    as you say, you welded your doors on, so a skim over the top of the joints where the openings used to be WONT be a problem.
    Keep up the good work
    ...I too have had a long time in the trade using this stuff, fitting kits('pro sport' manta 400 +exclusive ,metro 6r4's etc being a few)and building stuff from scratch..
    Just remember to wear a mask ..saves having a thick head and sore throat later on
    Adam.
    Last edited by ironman56; 22-10-2011 at 02:27.

  7. #35
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironman56 View Post
    Stick with it dude..its looking good!! ..Remember seeing one in street machine years ago..might have had a few inches chopped out the middle..
    Fitted plenty of kits and stuff using the trusty p40..filler/paste fibre-fill etc..no probs with kits bonded from one to the other,
    metal to fibre glass etc....
    just remember not to put the stuff over paint, as it will lift, clean bare steel is always the best to bond/fill over..
    as you say, you welded your doors on, so a skim over the top of the joints where the openings used to be WONT be a problem.
    Keep up the good work
    ...I too have had a long time in the trade using this stuff, fitting kits('pro sport' manta 400 +exclusive ,metro 6r4's etc being a few)and building stuff from scratch..
    Just remember to wear a mask ..saves having a thick head and sore throat later on
    Adam.
    thanks Adam for he advice, that makes me feel a bit better and i always sand of any paint and take it back to bear metal every time i use it hanks again

  8. #36
    ready salted evilzee28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironman56 View Post
    Fitted plenty of kits and stuff using the trusty p40..filler/paste fibre-fill etc..no probs with kits bonded from one to the other,
    metal to fibre glass etc....
    .
    Hi Adam, you'll find that if you contact the manufacturers of P40 & the like, they say that it isn't designed to bond panels together & that they're likely to crack or lose adhesion. I contacted them re this some time ago & they were quite adamant that it's not to be used for this sort of application. I don't want to get into an arguement over this, I only posted my concern as the car isn't too far down the line to redo it properly. I'd hate to see all that work put in & then it go tits up at a later stage.

    cheers...Nige

  9. #37
    Official RnS Addict Roadrunna's Avatar
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    Experience says it will work, experience says it won't work.
    The guy has said he's not going back to re-do it and will deal with it if/when it happens so lets just leave it at that eh ? and carry on with his build thread
    Meep Meep.
    My Intro

  10. #38
    Official RnS Addict ironman56's Avatar
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    Didnt mean to stick a panel on with it..(use tiger seal for that)
    Once a panel is on,(SCREWED/POP RIVETED/GLUED etc..) the gap can be bridged/coverd using p40/fibre fill etc..
    Fibre fill can and is used to make up, and repair panels/parts though..never had it crack, or fall apart on a kit, or bumper,spoiler..on a car, or laying about,tucked behind a shed for 20 years..not saying its the best stuff in the world to work with, but does come in handy.
    Now if you were still able to use it, i would recomend to lead over a seam that had been welded..
    but that wont work on a body kit...
    not taking the ****, or trying to start anything..
    just my thoughts on the matter..

    Cheers.
    Adam.
    Last edited by ironman56; 22-10-2011 at 14:29.

  11. #39
    ready salted evilzee28's Avatar
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    Looking fiorward to seeing it finished

    cheers...Nige
    Last edited by evilzee28; 22-10-2011 at 15:14.

  12. #40
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    monster v8 is offline
    thanks guys

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