the rover sd1 vitesse spoiler would look much better imo.
need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.
Stick with it dude..its looking good!! ..Remember seeing one in street machine years ago..might have had a few inches chopped out the middle..
Fitted plenty of kits and stuff using the trusty p40..filler/paste fibre-fill etc..no probs with kits bonded from one to the other,
metal to fibre glass etc....
just remember not to put the stuff over paint, as it will lift, clean bare steel is always the best to bond/fill over..
as you say, you welded your doors on, so a skim over the top of the joints where the openings used to be WONT be a problem.
Keep up the good work
...I too have had a long time in the trade using this stuff, fitting kits('pro sport' manta 400 +exclusive ,metro 6r4's etc being a few)and building stuff from scratch..
Just remember to wear a mask ..saves having a thick head and sore throat later on
Last edited by ironman56; 22-10-2011 at 02:27.
Experience says it will work, experience says it won't work.
The guy has said he's not going back to re-do it and will deal with it if/when it happens so lets just leave it at that eh ? and carry on with his build thread
Didnt mean to stick a panel on with it..(use tiger seal for that)
Once a panel is on,(SCREWED/POP RIVETED/GLUED etc..) the gap can be bridged/coverd using p40/fibre fill etc..
Fibre fill can and is used to make up, and repair panels/parts though..never had it crack, or fall apart on a kit, or bumper,spoiler..on a car, or laying about,tucked behind a shed for 20 years..not saying its the best stuff in the world to work with, but does come in handy.
Now if you were still able to use it, i would recomend to lead over a seam that had been welded..
but that wont work on a body kit...
not taking the ****, or trying to start anything..
just my thoughts on the matter..
Last edited by ironman56; 22-10-2011 at 14:29.
Looking fiorward to seeing it finished
Last edited by evilzee28; 22-10-2011 at 15:14.
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