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Got a quote to polish the crank and hone the cylinders. E230 plus vat.
Boring 20 thou will bring that to e600+
That seems a lot to me.
Any advice?
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Compulsive chicken choker

Originally Posted by
quickrack
Got a quote to polish the crank and hone the cylinders. E230 plus vat.
Boring 20 thou will bring that to e600+
That seems a lot to me.
Any advice?
Good engineering shops are few and far between nowadays. I had a crank grind and a +30 thou bore on my 302 around three years ago and it was around £450, so not too far away from your 600 Euros. I have a feeling it was balanced for that price as well though? Might be wrong.
To me there's no easy way to a "budget build" with an engine, for me if you're on a budget a KNOWN good runner/cut-out engine is better than a cheap rebuild.
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Originally Posted by
English Impala
To me there's no easy way to a "budget build" with an engine, for me if you're on a budget a KNOWN good runner/cut-out engine is better than a cheap rebuild.
Couldn't agree more. Prices seem to have shot up in last few years. Plus, I'm guessing there'd be less choice of shops in the Emerald Isle. When you search the net there's the odd place in the UK that quotes reasonably for something mainstream per bore and journal. I live in the world of old four cylinder engines with white metal bottom ends and I've heard quotes like £5k - £7k for a full rebuild. As soon as you take it apart, you're into a minimum of new gaskets, but I suppose you could do the honing yourself and re-ring and re-shell if the journals aren't too far out of wack.
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A quick search turns up honing tools that are really quite reasonable. E20 delivered. That's more than worth a gamble.
Everything is on hold now anyway as I wait for the correct 11/16 socket to arrive. Head bolts are tight and broke the one I had. It was an old no brand one.
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I've used one of those and you can get the required 60 deg cross hatching done quite neatly with it. Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but if there's a slight step at the top of the bore, ideally you'd rebore. However, if the bores aren't scored, and you're on a budget you might get away with reducing and tapering it with progressively finer wet & dry. Measure the ring gap at top, middle and bottom of bore - ideally less than 10 thou variance between top and bottom.
Last edited by 4potHemi; 10-01-2021 at 17:52.
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Later today I am meeting a man.
We are to trade some spares.
He has, at least, a set of Model A headlights or possibly Model b ones.
Wish me luck.
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Last edited by quickrack; 14-01-2021 at 14:52.
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Official RnS Addict
re the brake drums, if the pic shows the extent of the damage then that is part of the 'dust shield' lip/edge on the drum. the drum itself fits inside the lip of the back plate. if you trim the rest of that lip off to match it'll be just fine.
neil.
need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.
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Originally Posted by
mygasser
re the brake drums, if the pic shows the extent of the damage then that is part of the 'dust shield' lip/edge on the drum. the drum itself fits inside the lip of the back plate. if you trim the rest of that lip off to match it'll be just fine.
neil.
So I could trim them off in a lathe and carry on (if everything else was in good working order).
I never thought of that.
Plus it makes them lighter lol.
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Official RnS Addict

Originally Posted by
quickrack
So I could trim them off in a lathe and carry on (if everything else was in good working order).
I never thought of that.
Plus it makes them lighter lol.
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yep, that's it. although a slitting disc on a grinder would work just as well and be easier as the drum may be awkward to hold in a lathe chuck. it's not like it'll be in plain view once fitted and i'm sure you could do it neatly.
neil.
need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.
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