Stock 1947 Ford Prefect - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Lovely little job to do today - brown boot polish over my Bakelite sun visors - yes Bakelite. The car came with one Bakelite sun visor which I thought strange as it is customary to have two. But when this car was sold it was apparently an optional extra to have a passenger visor. Ford put the speed 'U' nuts in place for one. I mentioned earlier I had bought an interior from Yorkshire and on the same farm the seller had a nice little Anglia, the one with the very attractive grille. Anyway, he was breaking it (sad) so I had a look and this also had one Bakelite sun visor so I bought it from him. Bakelite and brown boot polish - heady stuff.


    Last edited by Perfect65; 18-10-2015 at 10:33.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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  3. #12
    Turbo 4 pot freak 20vT_pop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perfect65 View Post
    When I was cutting out this section I smelt a sort burning rubber smell and realised I had cut some of the stuff that is used around the body to tack the trim. I still cant work out what the material is - maybe some sort of rubberised leather plywood stuff? Anyone know?
    On my Prefect and Pop the material is rubber ply just like on a tyre, a layer of rubber then a layer of material then rubber and material until it is the thickness they require just like some exhaust hangar rubbers that are a laminate of rubber and material. It actually does look like old tyres cut up.

    John
    My Pop Build thread https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/gar...op-build-32191
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    Anyone can drive a fast car, not everyone can drive a car fast!!!!

  4. #13
    Feckin fibreglass!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20vT_pop View Post
    On my Prefect and Pop the material is rubber ply just like on a tyre, a layer of rubber then a layer of material then rubber and material until it is the thickness they require just like some exhaust hangar rubbers that are a laminate of rubber and material. It actually does look like old tyres cut up.

    John
    Its called insertion rubber.
    If it don't fit, make it adjustable!!!

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  6. #14
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Anyone know where to get it or if there is substitute. I may need to replace some sections where it seems to have cracked and perished. I was thinking one of the mastic type of products might work when it has gone off. Sikaflex? Tiger seal?
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  7. #15
    Feckin fibreglass!!
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    Dont think they will work. Most rubber places sell insertion rubber. We have used Acorn Rubber for stuff before.

    http://www.acornrubber.com
    If it don't fit, make it adjustable!!!

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    That's a good contact as they sell some useful stuff and what is even better they are about half a mile from the car as the crow walks. Thanks for the tip.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  9. #17
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Back to the C post repairs - this is the beginning of repairing the post itself. Roughly 50mm of the lower section was badly corroded so I cut off what I thought was needed to get back to some reasonably sound metal. I made up an over-length section and used some handy bars to form the new piece and this will be cut to length later with a thin disc cutter.


    This is the new bit welded into place as best I could as its about the most awkward area to work. I still found myself chasing a few more rust holes but it wasn't surprising. Not pretty but at least its now a strong enough part to build on and wont need much more than a skim of filler.


    And this is the inside of it. Any bluish colour is the milky white rust converter before it cures and turns the rust black.




    And this is the general condition of the chassis after a good rub down with a coarse sanding disc and a coat of rust converter (Aquasteel this time). I save all the old discs from the angle grinder as they are good for this sort of thing being hard wearing and stiff material.


    Next is painting the parts I wont be able to reach when the post is closed up plus any chassis that is nearby, after rust converter comes Bondaprimer, matt black undercoat then chassis satin black. Some will get burnt but thats unavoidable.
    I am already thinking about the engine for this car. It will be a rebuilt engine from good used parts mainly but always with new rings and and a rebuilt pump.
    The pump is straightforward to improve as long as the gears havent been chewed up. Just skim the body in the lathe to get the end clearance down to about 1 or 2 thou and rub the end plate down to get the wear rings out. The gasket sets usually include a cork thick gasket to fit between the pump screen cover and the body to prevent air leaks but I have found this distorts the pressed steel cover and even splits it especially if overtightened. I make a thinner paper gasket, about 1.5mm, or use Hallite graphited material. I then use a flexible sealant called Yamabond that I just happen to have but other sealants are available such as Hylomar. No gasket or just a very thin paper one is required between the pump and the crankcase. When tested cold I usually look for about 30 - 40 psi at cranking speed using a 12volt battery. Another thing I have done before is remove the hot spot from the manifold by cutting away the flanges where the two sections are joined and welding 3mm steel plates it their place. This makes a gap of about 6mm between the inlet and exhaust gases and keeps the carburettor cooler. I found that before this was done on another sidevalve car the carburettor body was getting very hot - not good. Only other 'improvements' I will do is a bit of gas flowing in the block and fit an '8' head. I have decided not to fit the external bypass filter but change the oil every 1000 miles or less if if I dont do many miles in the year. I think a non-detergent oil would be best so the micro particles sink to the bottom of the sump where the magnetic plug should retain them.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 01-01-2016 at 10:16.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  10. #18
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Next on the C post are the two pieces that join it to the chassis. First is the closing plate for the base of the post that is bolted to the chassis using 3 M5 button head bolts then welded to the previously repaired outer C post. Second is the inner part that is bolted (originally rivetted) to the chassis with the same 3 bolts as above and then welded to the the inner part of the C post. it will all become clear when the pictures arrive. All the surfaces will get some paint before final welding.
    This is the closing piece for the bottom of the C post

    The bell formed hole is my idea on letting water out as efficiently as possible and prevent it getting back in. A sort of circular pouring spout. The upstand will hopefully end up a close fit behind the inner wing repair and I should be able to get some sort of fixing here, a pop rivet or if not that a self tapper. The next piece is fixed to the chassis with the same 3 screws as the above section. It has an outward set to bring it up inside the C post and eventually get welded to the first bit of sound metal between the post and the seat box. It looks a bit mis shaped at the top but this has been tapped in to match the piece it will be welded to and then finally shaped when I get the torch on it just before I weld it. There will be a squeezy bottle of water handy to keep the surroundings cool occasionally.


    This next section is the repair piece for the inner wing and I have taken this a bit lower to shield the back of the running board.

    It also incorporates the front two wing attachment bushes (5/16" UNF). I have swaged the edge over to help form the original radiused form.



    The C post repair pieces got a thin coat of chassis paint today so next they will get bolted to the chassis and welding begins. While the paint dries I cut out some more rot in the rear arch........




    ........ and also the front A post/inner wing/wheel arch section and I didn't like much what I saw behind it. This section needs major replacement surgery.
    The outer section finishes at the white arrow and is part of the inner wing and the door post you normally see.

    The inner section, the rusty bit with chalk cross, you dont normally see and is also joined to the door post but from the inside outwards. This is fixed, or should be, to the chassis at the base plate and is also welded to, or should be, to the side of the chassis rail. In this case its all badly corroded so will need cutting out and re-building. I will make it from 16 gauge (1.5mm) steel sheet or thicker where it bolts (previously rivetted) to the chassis and I will also extend it forwards a few inches to give it more strength. Pictures to follow as it progresses.



    This is a view from below showing the state of the base closing plate.






    This view shows the lower section of the front wing flange cut away to expose the rusty interior.

    There are several more area at the rear arch that involve cutting out and welding in a plate with a hank bush fitted to secure the wing. This is the rearmost one that doesn't look too bad until you poke a scriber through it a few times. it just isn't worth trying to save it as its 'moth-eaten' with rust.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 12-12-2015 at 19:30.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  11. #19
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Fitting the mini roof panel

    Tomorrow I expect to start on the roof panel. The existing channel that usually accommodates the rubber roof seal moulding is a bit iffy having a few rust holes in it so I have decided to go ahead with a steel roof even though the car is meant to be stock spec. First job is to mark centre lines on the donor Mini panel and then measure the roof opening plus the channel width, also adding an overlap allowance of at least 2" as a starting point. I will cut well outside the marked line using my nibbler and then after taking off the sharp edges lay the panel centrally on the car and mark out the actual opening. I will then be able to mark out the cutting line an equal distance all round the opening. Weather forecast is good so I can do this outside on the grass where any escaping "toe nails" can disappear. I havent yet finally decided which fixing method to use.
    Marked out centre lines and started nibbling.........

    And here are the "toe nails"............


    Anyone want a mini sun roof or maybe a new gutter?

    Here's the roof panel laid on top viewed from underneath.




    And from above front and back........




    I did need to adjust the position of the panel fore and aft slightly to arrive at the best merging of the curves of the Mini panel and the Prefect roof.

    Tomorrow I will mark around the aperture from inside and then mark an even border around to trim the roof. It will still be a bit oversize but I need to consider how I will fix it and that can wait till next year when its snowing.
    This is the top after cutting an even border and it sits down now much closer as the squarish corners are gone that were making the fit bad.




    There is about a 2" border beyond the channel for the original rubber roof seal so plenty overlap.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 03-12-2016 at 08:52.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  12. #20
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    hi mate, have you any pics of the two repair panels in place, and does the small curved upstand butt up to the inner wheel arch, what part does the red panel play ,is it for extra strength?, both of my c posts need a lot of work before I can repair/replace the inner wings, cheers for any help/pics . keith......................

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