Tribute to Edwardian aero engined cars and Land Speed Record cars of the 1920's - Page 16
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  1. #151
    Official RnS Addict 28Chevy's Avatar
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    How about just sheet steel cladding the dash and firewall so it's self supporting?

    Then the cowl supports the radiator via the forked rods which keeps the bonnet in line and keeps the sides fitting nicely at the same time.

    cowl.jpg

    Bernard
    Whirrr whirrr chuff chuff de chuff........chuff......BRUMMMM!

    My Chevy thread: https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/sho...y-coach-403745
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  3. #152
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Paul L's Avatar
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    Stormbird – Hi Paul,

    I ended up with something similar to what Bernard/28 Chevy is describing above on my build.

    You could also include the front footwells and a gearbox cover/transmission tunnel between the floors.
    ( I reused the plastic Spitfire cover, but my bulkhead was still effectively a free standing piece).





    Good luck, Paul.

  4. #153
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    Thanks both food for though...

    Certainly there will be bars from firewall to radiator mount both at chassis level and at top , the radiator mount though will be over engineered and a free standing beast in it's own right bolted to the chassis and it will have the cowl fastened to it and maybe have the headlights mounted on it as well.

    I really want to 'hide' the steel to give the appearance of the whole body behind the firewall being made of wood.

    regards Paul

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  6. #154
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    radiator mount

    Hi all

    Well I have decided I have got bogged down on bits I currently have no solution for at the expense of any progress at all

    As there is still lots to do I do have an idea what I am doing I have started on the radiator mount , but first just a reminder that sometimes I don't think things through ......



    yes I should have cut these angles before I welded it together...



    There are 2 holes in the chassis on both sides just right for bolting a 3mm plate to , the plate will have a piece of 1.5" sq by 1.5mm wall bolted to it.



    This part was rescued from the Sherpa and has the bottom radiator mounts spot welded to it, I have drilled the mounts out the space between the flanges is exactly 1.25" so a piece of 1.25" sq can be welded in and cut to length so the radiator can be mounted in the same position as it sits now.



    They can be seen at the very bottom of this picture , which also shows the upper part of the Sherpa body that unbolted to allow the radiator to be removed. I need to put some uprights in place to allow me to bolt on the upper mounts.



    this shows my pair of cheap 9" headlight shells just dropped into convenient holes in the chassis , there are so many places the lights could be fixed and choosing the wrong position can seriously damage the looks ?



    Like this beautiful Talbot ?

    regards Paul

  7. #155
    Official RnS Addict ivanhoew's Avatar
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    liking those buckets , good size for the car .
    Bicester scramble ,Medusa enjoyed the trip.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-7I7-nA19U

  8. #156
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    The lights are too close together on that talbot
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  9. #157
    Official RnS Addict fordf350camper's Avatar
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    This is coming on really nice.Can i ask now you have the propshaft done it it now a single one or does it still have two.Thanks Pete

  10. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by fordf350camper View Post
    This is coming on really nice.Can i ask now you have the propshaft done it it now a single one or does it still have two.Thanks Pete
    Thanks sometimes it looks vaguely like a car only to be stripped down again , you can grow to like cardboard and OSB board

    Took the original prop shaft and a drawing of the current relative positions of the components.

    They recommended and made a one piece shaft with a sliding joint in it , all new components £260 ish squid ...

    Paul
    Last edited by stormbird; 08-03-2017 at 06:55.

  11. #159
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    Bit of builders block - however some fiddling and I can see the light ?

    Hi all

    So many things to do and no real idea how to do them ...

    So first up radiator/bonnet top/sides & cowl mount , not doing much this bit ?



    piece of 1.5" sq bolted to 2 3mm plates that are in turn bolted to the chassis.



    The brackets were salvaged from the original Sherpa body and 1.25" sq just fits inside them so that may be the way to go ?

    Although the 1.5" sq needs extending upwards to carry the upper mounts , that need to be bolt on to allow the radiator to be removed vertically.

    All this will be in-front of the radiator and inside it's edges to allow the bonnet sides to be as close to the radiator as possible making the front look as narrow as possible.

    Moving backwards this is the new steel firewall and the old wooden mock-up clamped together ?



    The white plate is the Sherpa bulkhead where the pedals/brake servo & clutch master mounts this plate shows were the bolt holes need to be in some 3mm plate that is welded and flush with the engine side of the firewall , this was held up because my steel stockist got some 1" sq when I order 1.25" then did not inform me when the 1.25" was ' in stock ' grrr

    So I will add a vertical 1.25" sq piece to the right and then cut & drill some 3mm to pick up the bolt holes for the pedal assembly using the white plate as a pattern [ it is much lighter than the pedal assembly ]

    big hole shows where steering column will be , eventually.

    Now the floor has been giving me much grief ?

    It was originally going to be 12mm marine plywood , however most specials have ' floor boards ' they allow easy access to the underneath bits and if a bigger engine gearbox is fitted it is easier to trim them to fit that have to hack away at some 12mm plywood ?

    However the curve on the side was going to need a 6" wide 1" board which I doubt was going to be flat and then some steel welding to the chassis rails to allow the floor boards to be bolted to it ?

    After mulling this over for too long I decided to go back to the plywood solution as being simpler/cheaper and easier to implement ?
    Plywood about £40 a sheet and maybe 'fake ' floor boards from some 1/2" x 4" softwood about another £40 would give me a 1" thick floor and the look if not the actual item.

    A chance conversation with my father reminded me I had some 1.25" pine probably about 50 years old and I had kept it about 35 years as it could be useful...



    The white piece shows the profile of the body side at floor level , the big piece running parallel to it at the top are 2 boards joined together underneath and when separated one of them is the same size as the white board and has a nice bull nose to one edge and great patina , the other board with it will also yield 2 floor boards and I have 2 more of these pieces.

    I also have 3 shorter pieces which will also yield a number of floor boards , the piece running from front to back can pick up 3 mounts left over from the rear dropside body and with 12mm bolts should be bullet proof.

    I just need a slim metal frame work below it to bolt all the floor boards together.



    With a metal lip running underneath the long side I can bolt the floor to it and it should be plenty rigid enough ?

    now I don't know which bit to start first .....

    regards Paul

  12. #160
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    Ok wet and windy means a welding day ! hooray !

    Lots of bits to work on , usual drill , tack weld try bend tack weld retry till ' near enough ' !

    I figure Edwardian style we only need to be accurate to 1/4"

    So two lower radiator brackets in a crude wooden jig having been tacked together.



    they were then offered up and looked to be right as I welded then for a good 50mm both sides and called them done



    The original Sherpa metal was sh*te even cleaned up it spit and fizzed all the way...

    next up two braces to support floor area alongside gearbox where floor boards will not be continuous across chassis.

    they will bolt to firewall [ when brackets made ] and spare holes that once held central prop-shaft bearing at the other end :-

    2 x 3mm plate welded to ends to take 8mm bolt



    One in situ , now need bracket at engine side of firewall.



    next up firewall braces , to stop it tipping into cockpit due to weight of pedals and steering wheel ...

    This shows the o/s one in position some 1" x 3mm angled welded to some 3mm plate , I thought I would be clever and use one of the bolt holes to put a 10mm bolt through to fasten the earth to , only to find the angle has trapped the bolt



    The braces pick up a couple of unused holes in the chassis and will pass through the floor , probably with some anti crush tubes set in the floor.



    At the top they will bolt to brackets welded to the firewall.

    All that is left for today is welding the feet to the firewall that pick up 2 holes in the chassis , another moment ?

    Ideally you would cut out the feet , weld them to the ends of the firewall sat comfortable at the welding table then mark and drill the mounting holes ?

    It causes all sorts of grief when you drill the holes first !

    I realised I cannot easily tack the firewall to the plates in situ , I may be able to do the N/S but unlikely to be able to do the O/S.

    So I started by mounting both plates and used the bolt sticking up through the chassis on both sides as a reference point got the firewall up to the braces and vertical and central between the chassis members.
    I then outlined each one in masking tape.



    I removed both plates and the firewall and set it up on my welding table so I could tack the O/S in relative comfort.
    Then put it all back into position and clamped it back in place , so tomorrow I can tack the N/S to its plate.



    If I can do that then it can go back to the welding table to be welded up ....

    phew glad when that has been done.

    Then I need some brackets and some of the pieces need gussets making and welding on.

    Till next time Paul

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