Tribute to Edwardian aero engined cars and Land Speed Record cars of the 1920's - Page 19
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  1. #181
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavychevy View Post
    del boy would be proud, lol.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  3. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavychevy View Post
    Excellent find , and rather crudely the builder rotated the steering box

    However what they seemed to have failed to do was move the drop arm on the output shaft ?

    I assume that means it turns less tight in one direction than the other ?

    Unless the arm does not move much at all ?

    Won't find out till it is all connected.

  4. #183
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    Ok much water had passed under the bridge , however car progress has been slow ?

    Spent a couple of days installing 2 new fluorescent battens I bought nearly 3 years ago as winter approaches and I want to be able to work in the garage.

    Bought 4 tubes and some starters and got another 3 tubes working from the old 4 x 2 tube fittings , some seem to be starter less ? they seem slow or reluctant to start unsure whether I am now asking to much for 5 pairs to start on the same circuit ? I may drop a couple down to the sockets instead see if that helps ?

    Then a week on holiday ....

    been working on the pedal box mounting , it will also hold the steering column.



    this 3mm plate has the mounting holes for the brake servo the bolts from that also mount the pedal box on the other side of the fire wall , the plate also holds the clutch master cylinder.

    this was it straight out of the jig I created to allow the welding of the square pieces first on the front and when turning it rear faces.



    then with more jiggery pokery I was able to weld the inside corners, sadly my TIG skills are limited and sitting down is the preferred position




    still most of the welds look like this so not to shabby.



    This is where it will be welded next then the 3 mm plate will be welded both sides to the frame work.

    the gap above will be plated with 1.5mm on this side to allow holes for part of the wiring loom and maybe the speedo cable and the choke cable will pass through there ?

    some parts of the firewall will get 1.5mm plating on this side , some on the right of centre [ in the picture ] will I think have to be plated on the cockpit side so I can see where the tubes for the frame are to mount heavy things like the battery etc



    this is what the Sherpa looked like.

    far left is wiring to I think front lights on drivers side and probably rear lights drivers side
    big cable next to hinge is speedo drive
    red to left of clutch is throttle cable
    cable to right of clutch is choke.

    I have to compress all this as I have effectively remove the width of a whole seat from the firewall width , in fact I think part of the servo may end up outside of the firewall framing , if that is the case we need a lump in the body work nice

    all for now Paul

    PS the frame is fully clamped up ready to be welded in 4 places , only for me to discover I have not cleaned the firewall of the rust it has acquired in the 2 years since it has been built DOH.

    it is mainly the horizontal surfaces [ same as ANY steel stored in the garage horizontally ] I assume it is dew settling on the steel that causes this ?
    Last edited by stormbird; 15-09-2020 at 21:46.

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  6. #184
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    Hi all

    Ok not been idle 3 brackets have been attached to the firewall and one to the radiator mount.

    The pedal box plate has been tacked welded on 4 sides to the firewall to get the pedals and steering wheel mounted to see if all is well ?




    Awaiting pedal box bolting on.



    two of the brackets sit on the inside corners and allow the inner floor supports to bolt between a chassis cross rail and the firewall



    They look like this from the cockpit side , I will probably make 2 plates to fit in either side of the gearbox made up of the floor boards from the firewall to the first floorboard that spans the whole floor screwed together so they come out in on piece ?

    I am unsure whether to clean up the gearbox and have it on show ? or whether that will just be to drafty to live with ?

    Whilst I am thinking of something like this ? it is a racing car and I want mine to be a little more practical ?





    Do I need any protection from the prop shaft ? the floor will be at least 1" pine or maybe 1.25" pine depends how much of each I have



    2 more brackets carry this tube that joins the top of the firewall to the top of the radiator mount.

    Maybe a good place to hang the coil ? as firewall space could be at a premium and the distributor is at the opposite end of the engine pointing at the radiator which would mean a very long HT lead ?

    The passenger side of the engine bat firewall has to house the battery , a bunch of relays the ECU and maybe a glass bowel fuel filter so will be rather busy ?

    all for now Paul

  7. #185
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    in case you didn't know the gearstick remote/tower you have is the rare short sherpa one. the more common sd1 type will sit the stick almost 6" (from memory) further back which looks like it may be better for you. you'll probably sell the short one for 3 times what a long one would cost at least. just a heads up and every penny counts.
    neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

  8. #186
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Another heads up re how to do an acceptable rebody. DON'T weld any of the body bracketry to the chassis anf all subframes etc must end up as part of the body PERMANENTLY by welding , glueig or whatever is needed . If you instal ANYTHING thta bolts to the chassis and can be unbolted from the body as well then itis considered a chassis extension NOT a body part.

  9. #187
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    budetta is offline
    Mygasser beat me to it re shifter , yes keep coil lead short but if you extend wires to coil check its not got built in ballast resister in wiring. BL did that to a lot of 80s stuff Metro Meastro Mini Allegro , it used to break down causing bad starting .

  10. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Another heads up re how to do an acceptable rebody. DON'T weld any of the body bracketry to the chassis anf all subframes etc must end up as part of the body PERMANENTLY by welding , glueig or whatever is needed . If you instal ANYTHING thta bolts to the chassis and can be unbolted from the body as well then itis considered a chassis extension NOT a body part.
    Kevin

    Thanks , understand , just using the bolts while I am still moving it to the bench for welding/fettling in the end it will be welded into one piece.

    regards Paul

  11. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    in case you didn't know the gearstick remote/tower you have is the rare short sherpa one. the more common sd1 type will sit the stick almost 6" (from memory) further back which looks like it may be better for you. you'll probably sell the short one for 3 times what a long one would cost at least. just a heads up and every penny counts.
    neil.
    Neil

    Thanks , need to be able sit in the seat before I can determine how much it is short.

    I plan on 18" from firewall to cockpit lip so probably 6" will not be enough ?

    If as you say the short version is much rarer it would make sense to get an SD1 and let someone who wants a shorter one have mine ?

    regards Paul

  12. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by budetta View Post
    Mygasser beat me to it re shifter , yes keep coil lead short but if you extend wires to coil check its not got built in ballast resister in wiring. BL did that to a lot of 80s stuff Metro Meastro Mini Allegro , it used to break down causing bad starting .
    Hi there

    Yes a ballast is mentioned on the wiring diagram , however where it is located is anyone's guess at the moment .

    I have spent the last few nights blowing the wiring diagram up and getting the Key/Wire colours and fuse's all in one place so I can go through and mark up the redundant parts only to notice the diagram and fuse table in the owners manual talk of a fuse box columns A,B & C with 7 rows only to find my physically one has A,B & C with 9 rows and more fuses installed ?

    My vehicle is most unusual as it is a Freight Rover and probably one of the last before LDV re-badge so lot's of the parts fitted are only in the Supplement for the Workshop Manual , anyone got a lead on a better diagram ?

    regards Paul

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