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  1. #11
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    splitty66 is online now
    hi there and welcome to r+s, your s seem to be progressing quicker than mine keep the updates coming cheers..........................

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  3. #12
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    I keep motivated by giving myself a list of tasks everyday. Usually end up doing some or none of those but something that I just take a fancy to but without the list I'd just waste my time on something else........................ What is your project?
    Last edited by Perfect65; 17-03-2013 at 08:09.

  4. #13
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    splitty66 is online now
    hi , mines on here under Project Prefect, good luck....................

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  6. #14
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie akydawn's Avatar
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    keep at it i know somtimes you loose that mo jo but it always come back in the end

  7. #15
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    I had a good week and finally got the prop tunnel cut in and ready to rivet.
    Also cut the 18mm plywood floors to length, 2" shorter than standard, so I can now set out the front bench seat and get the pedal box area under way.


    The original way of securing the floor panels was self tapping screws through J or U nuts on the floor supports. I found some natty fixings called T-nuts used in furniture making and these fit into 9/32" holes from the top. They are threaded 1/4" UNC so I can use hexagon set screws from underneath which makes a neat job. I counterbored the boards just one ply to make a perfect flush surface for the new carpets. I didn't like the self tappers as there was a nasty lot of points sticking out under the floor supports.




    I also got some welding done on one of the A posts. I made the fabrication pieces about a year ago and its been sitting there waiting to be done when I got inspired.



    Here's a picture of the new centre bracket I made for the Leslie Ballamy independent front suspension. The original aluminium bracket was cracking where the u-bolts had been over tightened or maybe the material was not up to the task. Anyway I bought a short piece of steel angle about the same proportions and filed and drilled to make this. Just need to make some longer u-bolts unless someone out there has some to spare.


    Getting on with the gearbox tunnel. Here it is with top laid in place ready to pin and rivet.

    Needed something to fit the new leather gearstick gaiter over so rolled a tube on my little slip rollers then swaged a bead around the top to keep it in place. I am getting this migged in place today.



    Here is the tunnel pinned with the swaged tube migged in place. Strange thing happened when I rolled the beads in the top panel - it warped badly but I suppose not surprising really. Anyway, had a good think about it and studied the way the stress had affected it. I laid the panel flat on the levelling plate and gave each bead a medium tap all along with a wooden mallet as if trying to flatten the bead and reverse the stress. It did the trick and the warping disappeared.

    And later with the back end plate cut and the arch piece that will eventually bolt to the cross member. The back plate will fix to the cover with two lugs I left on when I cut it out and then bent them over to go inside out of sight. There will also be a few tack welds too. The arch piece will have the front edge cut to leave lugs that will fit into slots cut in the backplate. It seems complicated but it all needs to fit together accurately. Final welding and assembly will be completed when I take the engine out and finish the firewall, hopefully pretty soon.
    The upstand at the back of the top plate aligns with the top of the backplate so are easily clamped and then edge welded with Oxy'.

    The cover is finished now and it has taken so much longer than expected but I am very pleased with the result although yet has to get a finish coat - could be paint or maybe vinyl. I need to consider some sound deadening and this could go underneath. It is held down with 1/4" bolts, 2 at the front, 2 at the back and 3 down each side. I decided to leave the toggles there for that original feature look.





    I have welded blanks in the original pedal holes and made a new seal plate, without pedal holes to clamp the rubber round the steering column. All very belt and braces. The firewall insert is now finished and clamped in place so that will be tacked next and final welding when the engine comes out for engine bay and chassis paint. Plenty to do in the meantime.

    Had a look at the Armstrong lever dampers that came with the Ballamy suspension and they are standard units that dont reach the lug provided because the suspension is about 3" wider than stock. It is wider because it is made from a standard A frame with centre split and bush tubes added and the above bracket. All this makes it wider. Anyway, I just experimented with a little heat on the arms and re-shaped them so they now resemble cycle cranks and they more or less line up ok. All the old dampers are leaky so I am intending making a tool to get them apart and fit new seals. More on this later. Here is the finished art-work.


    .......and what it looked like before..................



    The radiator that came with the car looked good and water tested sound with zero pressure. It had a small drain tap and as these always leak a little I decided to remove it and fit a plug instead. I turned the tap to unscrew it and it turned and turned and..... The threaded boss had parted company from the bottom tank but was still trapped in place as the rad has a steel strap along the base that is riveted to the tank and the boss is bigger than the hole in the strap. There is lots of solder around. Luckily there was a gap between the strap and tank near to the tap. I cut off the tap and drilled out the boss 1/2" and managed to remove all the bits so leaving a view of the solder area.



    I cleaned up the solder area and did my best to tin it. I made a new boss with a 1/4" UNC thread in the centre and tinned that. next the tricky bit - I plugged the water pipes and filled the rad with water up to just below the part where I needed to heat it for soldering. I dropped the new plug into place and using my smallest bullfinch gas nozzle heated the new boss adding flux and solder. I knew it was hot enough when the solder ran on the boss without a flame. Important to avoid over-heating a solder joint especially with other solder joints nearby.
    And here's the finished job. I will find a more suitable plug and add a wire locking facility.

    Last edited by Perfect65; 22-10-2013 at 19:12.

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict issigone's Avatar
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    hi,
    just read from the start, great project an excellent work, nice one.
    looking forward to updates.
    cheers chris.

  9. #17
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by issigone View Post
    hi,
    just read from the start, great project an excellent work, nice one.
    looking forward to updates.
    cheers chris.
    Thanks Chris. This site is so encouraging - especially with comments like yours but also I can look back sometimes and see all the little things that are easily forgotten if you dont take a few pictures. It helps remind you why it all takes so long to do. I must let my wife have a scan soon as she keeps asking where I keep disappearing to. Cheers, Dave

  10. #18
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    I just finished re-sealing the standard Ford steering box plus a couple of spares I have. I found metric seals, from memory 27 OD x 20 ID x 6mm metal backed. I did away with the old gasket under the top plate and sealed it with Yamabond I still had from when I raced a TZ350G. The boxes are now finished with Hammerite garage door paint in nut brown.
    Another job needing an oil seal is the dampers and again I found some 27mm OD seals that are pretty much identical to the original inch and sixteenth seals. I prefer to use metal backed but these are not available in that size so its rubber backed instead. Some of the original dampers are still oil tight so I will run with them but a couple leak plus the one that is used on the Ballamy suspension as an idler which I would prefer to make oil tight as possible. The lever arm is pressed on a spline and the end of the shaft appears to also be swaged so I ground off the swage. The early dampers have vertical valve chambers that inhibit the use of a bearing splitter. The spline fit is mega tight so I decided to try cutting the end of the arm and using a chisel to split it. This worked so now I can access the seal. Objective is to change the seal without major dismantling on the hydraulics side of things. If I use this method I will weld a pich bolt type of thing to make the lever grip the spline.

    Then I had another idea...............

    This is another way - using a cutting disk as far as possible and only slightly cutting into the shaft - split the end with a narrow angle cold chisel and pull the arm off. Next prise out the old seal and press in a new lipped one. I put a turn of insulating tape over the splines to protect the seal. Next press the arm back on and take it to local welder for Mig. Had a bucket of water handy so it was cooled before any heat got to the new seal. Works fine.





    I also tried a hydraulic press my friend had made and using a bearing splitter I managed to remove the arm from the Ballamy steering idler which is the later pattern with horizontal valve chamber. I picked out the old seal and pressed in a new oil seal. I managed to replace the arm using my No. 4 flypress. So far no leaks. This seems the best way to go but I might try making a strong puller to get the arm off when I get more time.
    This is the repaired idler ready for a paint job - I think silver as there is too much black dowstairs.


    Another job I have been avoiding is the bottom-of-the-C-post repairs. There wasn't much left to copy so I am making my own design.


    If you have had to repair one of these it might make sense to you - there should be metal connecting the C-post and front inner wheel arch to the chassis. The holes are where there was once rivets but I will use bolts - M5. More detail as I progress.
    August 17th 2013.




    These are the pieces I have made to repair the bottom of the C-post. The horizontal harp shaped bit is the closing plate at the base of the post and will have a drain hole swaged down slightly with a ball bearing. It will be welded all round the edge to finish it off. The crinkly bit fits up the inside to be welded in to the first bit of sound metal remaining. This assembly will be held in place to the chassis with a thicker stiffening plate and bolted through with 3 off 5mm HT screws and nyloc nuts inside.
    05/09/13 - This the off-side repair done. I had not realised how much lead was used in the wing arch and as soon as I started welding the closing plate it started pouring off. When it stopped 'raining' I carried on welding but the weld has lead in it so weaker but this is not a stressed area so maybe it will survive.



    Some while ago I made up a boot floor with a trap door because the wider tyres wont fit through the original spare wheel cover. Here is the finished work and below that the fixed cover that will retain the original look.

    The cover is a skin that someone had make to repair a spare wheel cover but it wasn't a very good job so I removed the skin and junked the old rusty cover that was under it - it doesn't look too bad. It is held in place by 8 welded tags that pass through slots in the seal bed and then turned over inside. This makes the cover removable if necessary. It will be sealed with body sealer so should be leak-proof.

    Last edited by Perfect65; 22-10-2013 at 19:59.

  11. #19
    MR UN-POPULAR sqweaka's Avatar
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    Nice build..
    Can you show more of the steering setup with the damper connected?

  12. #20
    Turbo 4 pot freak 20vT_pop's Avatar
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    Wow what a cracking build, you have some nice skills mentally and physically, looks like a real old skool real world build.

    John
    My Pop Build thread https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/gar...op-build-32191
    My 55 Chevy Resto https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/tri...ed-today-67186
    Anyone can drive a fast car, not everyone can drive a car fast!!!!

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