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  1. #31
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nobody View Post
    Everything I've ever done is to the owners design/requirements

    To dumb for my own ideas


    I've built cars to biva specs.well the bits I've needed to.what owners do after they leave here is not my concern.

    My next pop build in is going through biva.
    The only obvious bits in your builds that would not pass that I've seen so far are the brake M/C as they dont have the floats in them for the low fluid warning light.

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    The only obvious bits in your builds that would not pass that I've seen so far are the brake M/C as they dont have the floats in them for the low fluid warning light.
    maybe because you only get to see what i want you to see



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  5. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    While it's easy to take the **** Will, you fundamentally have not really grasped what BIVA is about.

    It does indeed seem a bit petty in places, but if you were hit by a car at say 20mph then of course it would bloody hurt. BUT......if that car has radiused bits on it you might get away with heavy bruising and some grazes where you landed on the road.

    But if you got hit by a car with some sharp edges that same 20 mph hit may well rip your leg/arm wide open which could quite possibly have lethal consequences.

    Which car would you rather get hit by - a 1960's Caddy or a 2019 Mondeo? One you would possibly walk away from and one would definitely leave you in hospital.

    Extreme examples, but that is what BIVA is about - protecting pedestrians and passengers alike. If you bothered to read the manual properly you would soon understand its actually pretty easy to get most cars through with only minor modifications to most parts.
    Now to be transparent, im going to post this reply as a witty response , well I think its witty. I understand the regs have read them and the updates a few times , but that aside here the reply .

    " I would rather be hit by the 60s Caddilac, as it was likely to be driven slower and less aggressively than the 2019 mondeo and therefore my chances of survival greatly increased" , (but I accept the theory )

    and here is where I place a smile to reiterate my flipant comment showing its in the best intended humour

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  8. #34
    I'm a newbie !
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    I'm at the early stage of deciding how to build my 33 Austin. BIVA worries me but it's the only solution if I want the car to sit right. The alternative is a Scimitar chassis but it wouldn't tuck under the car properly so the ride would be high.
    I'm still looking but my worries are many- E glass (at least it's flat), running a brake line or a wire somewhere the tested dissagrees with, getting a certified petrol tank (or can I use the original?), getting all the interior and exterior to meet radius requirements without touching the patina on the car, what needs covering, what shouldn't be covered, clear sight lines (does the A post get in the way?) the list is endless and maybe I'm overthinking it.
    What if I want to build it hybrid or fully electric?

    I guess if I were giving the advice it would be read the manual and the answers are there. It's got me questioning if I should even start or just run it as an unrestored standard car!

  9. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by AustinHarley View Post
    I'm at the early stage of deciding how to build my 33 Austin. BIVA worries me but it's the only solution if I want the car to sit right. The alternative is a Scimitar chassis but it wouldn't tuck under the car properly so the ride would be high.
    I'm still looking but my worries are many- E glass (at least it's flat), running a brake line or a wire somewhere the tested dissagrees with, getting a certified petrol tank (or can I use the original?), getting all the interior and exterior to meet radius requirements without touching the patina on the car, what needs covering, what shouldn't be covered, clear sight lines (does the A post get in the way?) the list is endless and maybe I'm overthinking it.
    What if I want to build it hybrid or fully electric?

    I guess if I were giving the advice it would be read the manual and the answers are there. It's got me questioning if I should even start or just run it as an unrestored standard car!
    I don't see how you'd get through with the front wing leading edges being ahead of the pretty square radiator shell and the size of the front wheel openings if you reduced the front wheel / tyre overall diameter - I don't think it'd look much like an Austin 10 in any event (I assume Austin 10 as there's no way a Scim chassis is going under a 7). I'd try and hot up what's there and go oily ragging, there are lots of people running Austin specials who can advise doubtless advise on period upgrades.

  10. #36
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AustinHarley View Post
    I'm at the early stage of deciding how to build my 33 Austin. BIVA worries me but it's the only solution if I want the car to sit right. The alternative is a Scimitar chassis but it wouldn't tuck under the car properly so the ride would be high.
    I'm still looking but my worries are many- E glass (at least it's flat), running a brake line or a wire somewhere the tested dissagrees with, getting a certified petrol tank (or can I use the original?), getting all the interior and exterior to meet radius requirements without touching the patina on the car, what needs covering, what shouldn't be covered, clear sight lines (does the A post get in the way?) the list is endless and maybe I'm overthinking it.
    What if I want to build it hybrid or fully electric?

    I guess if I were giving the advice it would be read the manual and the answers are there. It's got me questioning if I should even start or just run it as an unrestored standard car!
    Did you purchase a copy of the Dummies Guide as all the answers are in there , no need for certified gas tank , radius on body isn't normally an issue. Buying copy grants access to a thriving secret Facebook group where solutions and tips are shared by those building and those with passed builds. Electric and Hybrids are catered for in the BIVA test.

  11. #37
    I'm a newbie !
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    I'd really like to purchase a copy of your guide- I'd asked you a while back but didn't manage to get one, didn't want to chase you for it as I've only been here a few weeks and it seemed impolite!
    The facebook group sounds like something I need to steer me to building it properly.
    For this summer I think I'm gonna get it going as is- with a clearcoat on the body. I can then build the new chassis for it in slower time.

  12. #38
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  13. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by willkauffman View Post
    I don't see how you'd get through with the front wing leading edges being ahead of the pretty square radiator shell and the size of the front wheel openings if you reduced the front wheel / tyre overall diameter - I don't think it'd look much like an Austin 10 in any event (I assume Austin 10 as there's no way a Scim chassis is going under a 7). I'd try and hot up what's there and go oily ragging, there are lots of people running Austin specials who can advise doubtless advise on period upgrades.
    It's an Austin 12, quite a large car. 112" wheelbase. I'd like to keep as large a diameter (wire)wheel as I can get so it looks right in the arch. With the Scim chassis the outriggers would be seen in the open front wheel arch- ugly! The rear overhang might just fall where the original chassis exits the rear of the body but that then controls the ride height. An Austin special is another approach to consider. All thoughts appreciated.

  14. #40
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willkauffman View Post
    I don't see how you'd get through with the front wing leading edges being ahead of the pretty square radiator shell and the size of the front wheel openings if you reduced the front wheel / tyre overall diameter - I don't think it'd look much like an Austin 10 in any event (I assume Austin 10 as there's no way a Scim chassis is going under a 7). I'd try and hot up what's there and go oily ragging, there are lots of people running Austin specials who can advise doubtless advise on period upgrades.
    Shows how little you know of BIVA will, as all the points you raise are not valid.

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