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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 26-05-2010, 20:52
    barney 66
    Thanks again Peter for your help,here is an update in what i have done,took out the tank sender and cleaned the points although they weren' to bad,took out the fuel gauge and wired them on the bench still went straight over to full and the bimetal st rip and points don,t work,just as a test i put 12 volts straight to the sender and the sender points happily click on and off as the bimetal strip warms.

    So i am presuming by this little test the gauge and the sender aren,t matched as when the gauge is wired in it goes to hot and the points dont click in and out as the bimetal strip hasn't got warm enough.

    As a tempory measure i am making an adaptor to fit a landrover sender to the tank and a landrover fuel gauge as i have these lying around,if i have a temp gauge and sender i shall fit these as well for now so i can use it safely until i can sort the origanals,you are right at the moment,havent been able to sort a temp sender localy yet.

    Thanks again for your help look forward to any more sugestions you have or if you think there is something i have missed,

    regards Chris.
  • 25-05-2010, 03:36
    I checked a couple of vendors catalogs today, and they list the same temp sender for all Ford vehicles 1940 to 1955. You might try one of the flat head specialists for this part over there.
  • 24-05-2010, 14:59
    Do not use the stabiliser, the correct senders have built in regulators.
    As the temp gage does not move to C when power is applied, but does when grounded, then you are right that the sender is either bad or the wrong one. You will have to get one from any 1955 U.S. Ford product. It has not been available from the aftermarket oem suppliers for many years but some restoration suppliers, T Bird, Crown Victoria etc, have had some reproductions made. I lost faith in this supply line when early ones failed prematurely. I am told that the quality has improved but I prefer to use used ones.
    If cleaning the points does not fix the sender, then I think the best solution is for me to send you a pair of used gages and matching senders, unless you know of a place over there that is parting out old American tin.
    PM me a mailing address if you choose to go that route.

    I assume that the use of an underdash accessory gage set is not something that you want to employ?
  • 24-05-2010, 06:12
    barney 66
    Thanks for all the info Peter,The fuel sender is one like that and the float arm does move,however i have not prised the bottom off yet but ill try that this evening,i think somewhere along the lines i have mis understood you as well going on the 9.8ohm reading i got from the gauges these are 6 volt,so the stabiliser i ordered fron USA off ebay do i need this in or not,i have it in at the moment,but they dont work either with it in or out.
    Also with the temp gauge i may have misled you,it doesn't go to cold with the power on only when i touch the wire to ground,thats why i think the sender is at fault,if so what do i ask for when ordering one or do i just give the year of the vehicle?

    Once again Peter i must thank you for all your helpfull advice and for going to all the trouble for pictures as well,i'm sure between us if you have the patience with me we can sort it out,hope i can be as helpfull one day,

    Regards Chris
  • 24-05-2010, 01:53
    First be sure that there is no voltage regulator or dropping device between the accessory side of the ignition switch and the gages. If still original I believe it will be a two tailed black wire with a green tracer.
    As I said earlier there were only two gages used in Ford cars for many years, the '56 40 ohm units, and the rest. I checked a few gages here earlier today, and most of the "rest" were closer to 14 ohm resistance and not the 10-12 that I mentioned before. That said, with the correct senders your gages should still deflect the needle.
    Since the temp moves to cold when power is applied then the switching mechanism inside the sender must be working, but not registering temp change makes me believe that you have a mismatched part.('56 sender). I have a used '55 sender I can send if you can't source one locally.
    To check the fuel level system first remove the sender from the tank. It should look like one of these.

    If not then that is the problem. If it does then first check that float arm was not stuck in full position.(most unlikely, but sometimes you just get lucky) Assuming not stuck then attach a temporary ground wire to the sender body and manually move the float arm back and forth, watching the gage for any movement. If none then pry the lid off the sender and burnish the contact points under there. Hopefully yours will be cleaner than this one.

    Cleaning the points fixes most of these senders, but if it does not work for you then it will have to be replaced. As with the temp sender I can send you one if not available locally.
  • 23-05-2010, 08:07
    barney 66
    Ok Thanks for all that info peter,my gauges read 10 ohms but my temp sender looks a littie shorter than the one above and the marks on it are worn but looks like it says 15/17 if that means anything but no voltage marked,guage still doesnt read anything,but if you earth it out it goes straight over to cold so i am assuming the gauge works ok,fuel still doesnt work either,sender has no markings on it again shorted out goes straght over to full,so question is,can i assume the senders are faulty,
    any help appreciated,starting to p**s me off now,
    Thanks for looking,
  • 10-05-2010, 02:58

    Re: Temp & Fuel gauge

    I suspect that when you truck was converted to 12 volt the person doing the change out thought that 12 volt senders were needed. This is not the case.
    The only 12v senders that look and fit the same as the 6v ones are from a '56 Ford. The instruments on a '56 Ford are a one year only stand alone item, and are not compatible or interchangeable with any other years.
    Check your fuel sender. It should be mounted to the tank with six screws.(no adapter) If it is from a '56 it will have 12v stamped on the cover.
    The temp sender should look like the one pictured below (long brass bowl) but have either no voltage markings or have 6v marking. I suspect it will be as the picture, 12v marked.

    The gages are probably the original units. To check them you will need an ohm meter. They should measure around 10-12 ohms resistance across the posts. The '56 units will measure 40 ohms.
    If the parts check out as described above then the best fix is to get '55 senders and use as is. Senders can come from car or truck. The arm length on the fuel sender can be changed if the sender comes from a car tank.
    Once you have the correct parts you can run them on 12 volts with no other modifications. They are not polarity sensitive and no voltage dropping or regulating device is needed.

    The temp gage resting on H when not turned on is correct for all '55 and '56 Fords. A designers idea of an aesthetically pleasing dash.

    Once stripped of face and needle differences, all pre '56 and all post '56 gages are basically the same (10-12 ohm resistance) and are interchangeable, regardless of voltage applied, but an instrument voltage regulator will be required if later sending units, ('57 and up) are used.
  • 09-05-2010, 14:03
    barney 66

    Re: Temp & Fuel gauge

    Ordered a resistor from the states that should do all the clocks,let you know what happens,
  • 09-05-2010, 10:35

    Re: Temp & Fuel gauge

    I am not entirely sure about the fuel gauge but when I converted my mercury the temp gauge did that exact thing if it was hooked up backwards. I believe the fuel gauge would be the same. All the gauges will need resistors. Speedway motors carries them. They are not too cheap though. Good luck.
  • 06-05-2010, 19:45

    Re: Temp & Fuel gauge

    dont the older cars use voltage stabilisers on the wiring to the fuel and temp gauges, perhaps you could try one of a 60s cortine or old escort
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