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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 04-07-2009, 08:57
    Real 39
    Sorry for the hyjack of the thread Keith I guess it is all on topic?
    Scooder I like the timing adjustment of the Mallory unit and stops the messing with vacuum brakes also I am hoping to run a small blower and guessed that would effect the system? the car is a '32 roadster with tall tyres but the diff (9" ford) isn't sorted yet.
  • 03-07-2009, 14:19
    scooder
    Using the standard crab dizzy is a good idea (better than the mallory) but interested in why you want to run with out the vacuum brake conected?
    What car / diff ratio you useing the vacuum brake when set up properly is a very good setup in a wheighty / small number diff aplication.
    The dizzy should still realy be verified for its curve (but even a really worn one would be lots closer then the mallory!) as the stockers were originaly set for bout 18 deg total cus the fuel was crap, 24-26deg total should be aimed at.
    Martin
  • 03-07-2009, 10:17
    Real 39
    Mart do you still sell the parts to convert a standard dizzy into an electronic one? and does anybody know if I can run the original crab type dizzy without using the vacuum advance, like the Mallory unit does.
  • 02-07-2009, 20:42
    scooder
    No problem fella best of luck sorting the little henry out.
    Any probs let me know.
    Martin.
  • 02-07-2009, 20:28
    keith ardley
    Quote Originally Posted by scooder View Post
    Yes mate all curable if you rekon it advancing to quikly try some stronger springs, But I would recomend as you made a timing mark try to get a dizzy curve drawn out using a timing gun like the 1 mentioned earlyer. (I agree with Mart here they are good but they cant time a motor with no marks!)
    At least that way you have a point of referance to relate too when making dizzy mods.
    And as a side note the info Mark refered to on the Yank site the recomended total advance of 21 deg is a bit on the safe side, over here we have better rated fuel (super and unleaded) and we can use and I like to see 24-26 on a fit Flatmotor.

    THANKS TO ONE AND ALL LERNT A LOT FROM ALL OF YOU
  • 02-07-2009, 17:04
    scooder
    Quote Originally Posted by Real 39 View Post
    Martin, did you cure the dizzy problems? I am running a Mallory unit and found it advances too quick. It's ok up to about 1800 rpm then pinks a little then after 2000 rpm it's ok again.
    Keith I found to get the engine running the dizzy could be nipped up in the centre of the slots. I have made a timming marker but mine is a 59A and I can't remember how I did it.
    A word of caution, the Mallory electonics don't survive problems well you need good plug leads and I had to remove my steel wiring harness as it took the electronics out, don't use a too powerfull coil either.
    Richard.
    Yes mate all curable if you rekon it advancing to quikly try some stronger springs, But I would recomend as you made a timing mark try to get a dizzy curve drawn out using a timing gun like the 1 mentioned earlyer. (I agree with Mart here they are good but they cant time a motor with no marks!)
    At least that way you have a point of referance to relate too when making dizzy mods.
    And as a side note the info Mark refered to on the Yank site the recomended total advance of 21 deg is a bit on the safe side, over here we have better rated fuel (super and unleaded) and we can use and I like to see 24-26 on a fit Flatmotor.
  • 02-07-2009, 16:46
    Mart
    Seems to be a lot of mis-information and guesses being bandied about.
    Keith: shame you pulled the heads, it may not have been necessary. Best way to get tdc accurately is to stop the piston a bit down from tdc in one direction,mark the pulley, rotate the engine in the opposite direction and stop it at the same point, mark the pulley again. The true tdc is exactlt half way between the two marks. I did this recently on my flatty with a piece of heavy steel bolted to the block face, the dome on the piston stopped level with the block face, followed the procedure I described and nailed tdc. You need a pointer so you mark the pulley in the right position, then when you remark the pulley half way between the two marks, that is tdc relative to your pointer. Don't move the pointer.
    If you don't want to remove the heads, you can insert something through the plug hole to stop the piston before tdc. Best thing I heard suggested is a suitably sized cable tie. Use the big end through the plug hole to stop the piston, and carry on as before.
    Trying to measure tdc directly, even with a dti is harder to do than the method above.

    The snap on timing light can only be used with a pre prepared tdc mark and pointer. It is good, though as you can measure rpm and ignition advance. You can generate a dizzy curve from it. I bought one second hand and it has proved very useful.

    Mart.
  • 02-07-2009, 15:20
    Real 39
    Martin, did you cure the dizzy problems? I am running a Mallory unit and found it advances too quick. It's ok up to about 1800 rpm then pinks a little then after 2000 rpm it's ok again.
    Keith I found to get the engine running the dizzy could be nipped up in the centre of the slots. I have made a timming marker but mine is a 59A and I can't remember how I did it.
    A word of caution, the Mallory electonics don't survive problems well you need good plug leads and I had to remove my steel wiring harness as it took the electronics out, don't use a too powerfull coil either.
    Richard.
  • 02-07-2009, 15:07
    35kid
    keith have a look at this page, it explains exactly what is needed to reset the mallory

    http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/mech-adv.htm
  • 02-07-2009, 14:09
    scooder
    Hopefully there should be 2 ajustable stops in the dizzy below the points plate ( or behind the points plate cus being mounted on the front) to limit the max advance loosen the allen bolts and movem allong the slot to ajust. Softer springs in there will let it advance quicker.
    Most Flatty Mallorys I seen have got lots more advance than required. 1 had 38 degrees in stead of 24-26 total. With a mild cam say Isky max1 or so on in a normal Flathead likes maybe 6-10 deg initial timing, slap on the afore mentiond dizzy and you get 44-48 deg total!! Not good for acceleration / power / rod bearing life.
    The main symptoms the car showed were poor power (for engine spec) poor fuel consumption and surging wilst at cruising speed.
    Thats my polite version of my Malory experiance. Cider will bring out a lot ruder and more grafic tale of woe, but I might get sued.
    Martin.
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