When it was Rover powered BGP had Ladder bars and a diagonal and was street driven a lot (NSCC cars are) it worked OK but always felt very tight in the back end, which never gave me any confidence in it on the street. It worked well on the strip.
Putting a big cast iron lump in place of the Rover was always going to move the CofG forward and upset the apple cart. This was why we went to 4bars, we could make them shorter, but with more adjustment for the moved CofG, while dropping the seat height and moving it back 2". At the same time we went to a track control wishbone. The "slider" allows some body roll and the back end is now much more "comfortable" on the street
Both diagonal and wishbone set ups allow no sideways axle movement and are fine with minimal tyre clearance. A pannard rod will allways introduce some arc travel of the axle, and the shorter the rod the worse this will be. A Watts linkage is complicated to make and has lots of joints to wear. and is a problem on an axle with a rear cover.
Tyre clearance on the 4bars should not be a problem as they move with the axle, and the axle will have to be well out of track alignment to foul tyres on these. Inside or outside of rear tubs is another matter, and a no sideways arc type rear end will help.
Do as Electric20 says get it up on sticks with no springs on the shocks and checking it out is the only real way
By the way don't under estimate how much hammer these components have to take, last year I got airbourne at York and on landing snapped a 5/8 rose joint in the track locator, at 130+ mph it was shaking it's arse around like a hundred dollar hooker

Originally Posted by Nobler

Art Morrison Enterprises - Tri4 Bar Information
can that price be correct 485?
all the links with the aldon shocks, or is it from.....

off to bed zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

U dont listen do u ? if ! if ur tyres as much as sniff ur chassis / suspension parts u be in big trouble !! REMOVE UR SPRINGS test ur suspension travel in "all" directions and make sure nothing fouls anywhere , if "one" tyre touches anything its just like having it in a puddle ! DER !! Instant right/left turn clyde !!

Originally Posted by Nobler

Art Morrison Enterprises - Tri4 Bar Information
can that price be correct 485?
all the links with the aldon shocks, or is it from.....

its only for the 4 bars and the brackets .rest is additional.

cheaper to make em yourself

Originally Posted by german8rcoupe

That looks like twice the problem Wayne.
A wishbone track locater is a sometimes easier to find space for than a Watts or Panhard link.

I'd go for a Watts link anytime. I'll try and get some pics next week of the adjustable four bar and Watt link 9" under my mate Martyn Payne's street driven (for over 15 years) 10 second Pop. The car handles like a go cart and hooks up well enough to pull the front wheels when on slicks and he found enough space under a Pop with stock rear arches and 10x15's.

Art Morrison Enterprises - Tri4 Bar Information
can that price be correct 485?
all the links with the aldon shocks, or is it from.....

Originally Posted by 1stpop

sorry to hijack the thread but im glad i just noticed this as the mopar menace has a diagonal rear link thats mounted on alloy blocks from front 4 bar pick up to axle 4 bar pick up opposite side. so i need to change to a panhard rod , is this the best option for a drag + strip car , longer the better mount from chassis to a plate bolted to the diff .

Correct.
I had your setup and removed it for this reason.
Keep panhard rod as long as physically possible, can mount anywhere you like on axle tube (brackets may need to be made), see my website for photos of mine.

to me, it looks like the only improvement would be show points. from an engineering stance it is crap, but dont worry about binding, as the lower tube has bends in it so will be able to flex under load a better solution might be an A frame from chassis to diff also any roll will possibly make the bars collide
ttfn glenn

That looks like twice the problem Wayne.
A wishbone track locater is a sometimes easier to find space for than a Watts or Panhard link.

what about a double one.
no idea if its better as only seen it for the first time today



anyone explain the benifits if their is any.
looks to me like it would bind