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Post a reply to the thread: How to get a Pro Street Pop through BIVA
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Thanks a lot guys.
Probably old news but I was looking here today and they have a lot of useful stuff on there.
You don't need to tether the fuel cap if the key cannot come out of the lock when the cap is undone.
The vent tube needs to go as high up in the car as possible before looping back down to exit under the car. That way the fuel cannot get high enough to leak out.
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If you're running carbs and using a valve, be careful which type you use, the wrong type can act as a one way valve and lead to gradual pressure build up due to temperature changes when not being used. This can lead to your engine sump filling with petrol, as the pressure overcomes the carb valves. Don't ask how I know this :-(
You don't have to tether though it is the simplest way .Optionally you can use a locking fuel cap where you can only remove the key in the locked position.
Breather should be routed to outside the car and not so it exits over an exhaust . To prevent fuel loss you normally route the breather up and away from the tank before returning it down wards to atmosphere.
Alternatively you can buy roll over valves that allow venting but seal , under petrol weight, to prevent fluid loss.
I actually have a couple of questions about your fuel tank assembly.
Firstly, I wondered how you tethered your fuel cap and secondly, I am not getting where the fuel tank vent should be routed to and how you prevent fuel just coming out of the end of the breather pipe.
Thanks Dan, that was the point of the thread. To try to de-mystify it all to show its not as bad as everyone thinks.
Been through this whole thread. What an adventure you have been on. I have a long way to go with my build but I am more reassured that I can get a car through the test after reading this.
you're not the only one with a black paint obsession. check out the reflection on this barracuda https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...134292/page-20
They recommend keeping original light wiring away from the heatsinks but the wiring provided is ok on them. I dont think the heatsink gets any hotter than a halogen bulb so a plastic housing will be fine. The heat is only on the aluminium rear sinks themselves, the bulbs remain cold.
Its the opposite way round to a std halogen - halogens get hot at the front & cold at rear - these are cold at front & hot at rear.
Evening Mark, they do light the way very well! But do you think the ‘very hot’ would be too much for a plastic light housing?
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