Any mercedes engine experts ??? 53 chevy van problems - Reply to Topic
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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 10-01-2016, 20:54
    wheelie
    Well I've given up on it after speaking with a few people and days of internet surfing. The ECU's apparently also need inputs from wheel speed sensors, the central locking vacuum pump, etc. What a pain.

    I want a van that starts and gets me home when I want it to, not one that decides I'm going to be stuck in a dark car park all night because some stupid sensor decides that a broken brake bulb makes it too dangerous to drive! My mate recently pulled into a petrol station in his flash Audi and it wouldn't let him open the fuel flap, luckily he had enough fuel to drive to an Audi garage, what a load of rubbish these electronics are.

    So I got the wire cutters out and have slashed the wiring, ECU's etc and thrown them in the bin. It felt good.

    New plan is a OM603 mechanical fuel pump and manual gearbox from a Sprinter van.

    Thanks Everyone for the help and advice.
  • 10-01-2016, 18:30
    streetfighter
    If it runs but won't come out of park, there is a secret button under the selector that you press with a pen and it allows the shifter to be moved. I think it's up until about 2002 before they moved it. last one I had locked in park needed a new "sams unit".
  • 07-01-2016, 13:11
    kapri
    Quote Originally Posted by chaley View Post
    I didn't beleave it when a friend said his non-starting Laguna turned out to be a faulty brakelight switch…
    … live and learn

    Chaley
    Had it on another friends car when the brake light fuse blew , it would start but you couldn't get it in gear.
  • 07-01-2016, 12:20
    digger
    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Should it be interwired to your brake lights switch ? Certainly the way that many later motors work that there is a solenoid that locks the gearlever from moving out of park or neutral unless you have your foot on the brakes. On both Renault and Citroen you can hear a click from the lever area as you press the brake pedal whilst idling in N or P .
    Yes that's right.also a cable runs from the pedal to back of box. I suspect they are all together and if ones wrong it won't work..... still investigating.
  • 07-01-2016, 12:07
    chaley
    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Should it be interwired to your brake lights switch ? Certainly the way that many later motors work that there is a solenoid that locks the gearlever from moving out of park or neutral unless you have your foot on the brakes. On both Renault and Citroen you can hear a click from the lever area as you press the brake pedal whilst idling in N or P .
    I didn't beleave it when a friend said his non-starting Laguna turned out to be a faulty brakelight switch…
    … live and learn

    Chaley
  • 07-01-2016, 11:44
    kapri
    Quote Originally Posted by digger View Post
    I'm useing the same setup.... although mine starts but can't get out of park....
    Hope u sort it. It will be worth it in the end.
    Keep us updated.
    Should it be interwired to your brake lights switch ? Certainly the way that many later motors work that there is a solenoid that locks the gearlever from moving out of park or neutral unless you have your foot on the brakes. On both Renault and Citroen you can hear a click from the lever area as you press the brake pedal whilst idling in N or P .
  • 07-01-2016, 11:00
    digger
    I'm useing the same setup.... although mine starts but can't get out of park....
    Hope u sort it. It will be worth it in the end.
    Keep us updated.
  • 07-01-2016, 10:51
    rolla
    a 99 merc has basically not many easy modules, i got one, but scrapping it as rusty ****heap, good engine and box, talked about doing it as well...
    You may really need star diags, as all odb2 stuff dont work so well on these mota's, '99 is a poor year for anything bar STAR diags - i battled it an didnt win..
    mines a e320cdi ....... 16pin round connector .... no odb2 can find any fault... when it had them....

    On yours would there be a low voltage supply too required for transponder in key to activate it, this is on the ign. lock im on about ..? but it sounds like your on the right track with the steering angle sensor also .... good luck
  • 01-01-2016, 13:24
    wheelie
    Thanks Everyone for the advice so far.

    I had a word with the Chevy God and we agreed that in the current climate he needs to be more multi manufactural in his attitude, so that's sorted.

    I'll give Pinky a call thanks Mark, I've still got the Merc chassis number and the diagnostics port is still attached, but I read somewhere that you can't carry out diagnostics if the ignition won't turn on!

    I didn't think that the battery in the fob has anything to do with the ignition as the coil in key is energised when put in the ignition switch, and both keys have been handled very carefully since stripping the loom out.

    One thing I have learnt is that Mercedes stupidly use brown wires for earthing and the Canbus system. I've had to go round trying to separate those out. They also use brown/white, brown/black, green and green/white for the Canbus systems I think so I've checked all of those and a few were not joined.

    Lastly for the moment, my steering angle sensor is not connected and apparently that affects the drive authorisation by making the steering lock work, so that's got to be fitted when I can find it in my shed.

    It is a nightmare but quite interesting in a sad way.

    Thanks, Ady
  • 26-12-2015, 17:08
    sid
    i have had those keys die when dropped hard, take the circuit board out the key and look at the copper wound thing on the end, you may see the ''coil'' broken, i dont know about the plastic key merc cars but that same cars with the blade key the immobiliser was under the passenger foot well i think

    edit as i cant spell
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