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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 26-03-2017, 13:16
    I have a good customer with a fiberglass classic. He also has 7 more. So buys an expensive cover 250, puts it under carport over a mild winter 2015/16. Takes the cover off blistering all over.

    Rings cover company up, they say deal with our insurance company. Estimates 7k and a few specialists later still on going. He thinks............ claim the cost of the cover back. Rings card company claims money back....cover not fit for purpose. Gets in to a claim situation with card company.

    Guess whos paying for the repair.....the card company. I have the authority in their name to proceed with repairs.

    Figure that one out........

    We have made a start and it is water....the gel coat is intact and the primer is not the problem.

  • 25-03-2017, 22:20
    Quote Originally Posted by Roscobbc View Post
    Moral probably is - use a car cover - but one that doesn't have any physical contact with the bodywork!
    Or get an '86 Volvo as the paintwork is bombproof.... ( it won best in class at a "modern classics" run at Beaulieu last year even though it has been under a cover for 5 years)
  • 25-03-2017, 21:57
    Moral probably is - use a car cover - but one that doesn't have any physical contact with the bodywork!
  • 25-03-2017, 20:41
    My TR6 sat out under good quality covers for five years. The paint is badly blistered, some panels worse than others. Boot worst, bonnet not at all.
    I agree it's down to trapped moisture when the paint was applied.

    Looking at 2k+ for a respray now.

    Moral - if you can't keep a car inside, don't buy it.
  • 21-03-2017, 16:41
    I've had an '86 Volvo 240 estate under a California - Noah car cover for 5 years (some would say best place for it) and no trace of any paint damage at all (I live just 200 yards from the seafront and the cover is far from waterproof and sand gets under or through it)

    My Pilot was painted about 15 years ago and I decided to treat it to a California Stormweave cover as my garage was having some repairs done to the roof and within a couple of weeks the paint micro blistered and there was definitely no signs of any problems before I covered it.

    As the post above says, it does seem covers can be a catalyst to any underlying problem.
  • 20-03-2017, 23:23
    Well its good to have an old thread of mine brought back up.

    So, yeah the boot micro blistered. I then had some fat old bitch decide to sit on my bonnet for a photo at North Weald and with the panel popping in and out with her mounting my car, the paint cracked. Fat bitch. I didn't see her, but she must have been very fat.

    ****ed... I went on my travels to get quotes for the damage and the blistering. I then actually went with the most expensive quote - he simply gave me good confidence and came recommended with his work in the yank/rodding circles. He also did something rare - he kept to his timelines and kept me appraised of his work. He didn't bull**** me.

    Forward some 6/7 years later now and the car was initially back out in open again for a few years with the cover over it and it was fine. It actually still has the Noah cover over it, but its in a garage now. As a scientifically minded person though, I would assume that something in the primer or paint layers expands (possibly h2o based) and causes the blistering. The cover DOES seem to be a catalyst though and accelerates an underlying problem waiting to occur. Unfortunately its hard to find the root cause until its really too late.

    PS - Keep an eye on your in car at shows in case a fat bitch decides to sit on it.
  • 20-03-2017, 22:18
    /\ 100% .
  • 20-03-2017, 20:41
    Quote Originally Posted by chevy2 View Post
    My Nova was painted by Larry Ward nearly 7 years back,
    he painted plenty of other rods and muscle cars in that same oven over several years, also had an in-line air dryer, none of which have any problems worth mentioning except one,
    a red 65 el-camino owned by one of our club members, Ian who owned it had no garage space for it as his camaro was in there,
    his wife bought him one of those big dollar custom fit outdoor breathable covers,
    he always had it covered, never put it on if the truck was wet,
    within a couple of years the tops of the wings, bonnet and roof all had plenty of micro blisters, basically all the surfaces where the cover rested on, all the sides were fine,

    Larry doesn't cover any of his cars for any long periods of time, me neither,
    his opinion is it's best to leave it exposed allowing the paint to breath,

    might be a different story covering a car thats garaged as there isn't such a moisture problem.
    Sorry. Know this is an old thread.
    But have to back this up. Car painted by same painter. Albeit I primed. Been fine for years. Needed space so was covered with Noah California car cover ( not cheap ) after 5 months it's covered in micro blisters and had it. Don't cover
  • 30-12-2009, 18:16
    little woody
    Quote Originally Posted by bigjob View Post
    Micro blistering is moisture trapped in between paint coats,usually at the time of the paint being applied,ie water in airlines,if its in there a car cover will accelerate the apperance of the blisters,if the paint system is moisture free you will never get the problem-ever !,Bry
    this man is correct
  • 30-12-2009, 17:36
    Lots of info and advice about "micro blistering" on this thread. I read it and couldn't see where the type of paint was mentioned,so- was if celly?.

    All paint sytems are permable to moisture, the moisture or rain, will move in and out of a corrctly applied paint film all the time, usually with no problem. However, when their is some intercoat adhesion weakness, between, metal, primer, or colour or even between the colour coats, there is potential for the moisture to collect and cause blisters by expanding the paint film. Sometimes these blisters will disappear, sometimes not, there are too many
    (human) variables to provide a concise answer. Even the use on "non bloom celly thinners " in the wrong circumstances could cause a problem. This is a reason when sometimes only part of a car will show symptoms, something different has been done to that part of the car.

    Covers should not cause a problem to a properly applied paint system, common sense not to cover a wet car though.

    But, if you are experiencing blistering, there is no easy cure except start again and make sure that ALL parts of the paint process are done correctly, ie clean steel, correct thickness of primer, clean water, if wet flatting , thorough rinsing, correct flash off, no touching surfaces with greasy hands, no moisture in air line. I mentioned earlier if celly was used, celly IS DEFINATLY more susceptible to blistering than a modern 2 pack , with water-borne basecoat/2K clear system, basicly cause celly is technically c**p
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