57 Chevy head lamp issue - Reply to Topic
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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 18-04-2017, 21:30
    sixbanger
    I found what may be a temporary fix . seemed to work for the guy in the article.

    http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-...h-overview-jpg
  • 18-04-2017, 20:56
    russ6120
    You really do need to replace the old light switch. Had the same thing on my old truck even with relays.
  • 18-04-2017, 19:13
    Roger Shackleton
    Thanks timbo56 will have to get one of those, does one pair do for both lamps, ie one relay for low and one for high beam and does both head lights?

    Rog
  • 18-04-2017, 18:47
    timbo56
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Shackleton View Post
    Thanks guys, if I purchased a new switch is this a more modern item able to carry the current ? My head lamps have been upgraded. Or should I fit the relay as the post from Sid, where do I get the relay kit.

    Rog
    Whatever option you take, fit a relay to both high and low beam. If you can't do the wiring yourself (It's dead simple) then one of the single headlamp kits at the bottom of this would do the trick http://www.brightlight-customs.co.uk...headlamps.html
  • 18-04-2017, 18:44
    Roger Shackleton
    Thanks guys, if I purchased a new switch is this a more modern item able to carry the current ? My head lamps have been upgraded. Or should I fit the relay as the post from Sid, where do I get the relay kit.

    Rog
  • 18-04-2017, 05:13
    Plumpcars
    Very common on Tri Chevy especially with newer light units fitted. Best cure is a new headlamp switch (as said the thermal cut out is pulsing) and run relays and heavier wiring. Fit & forget.
  • 17-04-2017, 23:10
    prostreet70gto
    Tri chevy headlight switch has a by-metal strip contact on the back which are prone to melting. you can remove the switch and check by putting your hand behind the dash to feel for a small push in button on the back of the switch. Press it in and pull the switch knob out at the same time. when the centre rod and knob are out of the switch you can then undo the bezel holding the switch into the dash and carefully let it hang down underneath. you can then push the little button again and refit the rod to test the lights whilst still being able to see the switch workings. take the battery off first though until the switch is out of the dash
  • 17-04-2017, 20:30
    sid
    as kapri said my 55 has a thermal fuse in the headlight switch that would do as you say.

    may want to go through your wiring and upgrade it somewhat.

    edit: http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/p...268%20TECH.pdf
  • 17-04-2017, 20:06
    kapri
    Have the headlights been uprated ? Pretty sure they feature a thermal cut out in the switch itself . Higher power headlamps = quicker overheating of trip switch.
  • 17-04-2017, 19:49
    millo3123
    sounds like your floor mounted dip switch.had same prob number of times
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

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