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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 22-09-2019, 11:12
    Austin Martin
    Cut some windows yesterday, started with a cardboard template, then another cardboard template that was more accurate, measured the thickness of window rubber (8mm) subtracted that from the template, then cut the lexan, then trimmed the lexan, then trimmed the lexan again
  • 15-09-2019, 12:38
    Austin Martin
    Doesn't look like they are eccentric (and I should know) probably the easiest way would be to make tubular top arms with an adjustable joint (if you cant buy them)

    On another note, I see we have passed 10,000 views, turns out all that clicking on my own thread has paid off......
  • 14-09-2019, 20:57
    just a thought, are the lower arm pivots on eccentrics so you can 'pull' them in as well? that or it'd be easier to remove a bit from the lowers than let a bit into the uppers. there's more than one way to skin a cat. if you shortened the uppers you could do it 'too' much then add put some camber adjustment back with shims on the uppers re added.
  • 14-09-2019, 15:41
    Austin Martin
    Persevered with the drop kit/brake combo, I could have made it fit the standard spindle upright, but would have to re drill the split pin for the wheel bearings, and the lower caliper bolt would have to go in before the steering arm was bolted on, as well as grinding the caliper bracket and re drilling/tapping the bolt holes...

    Anyway, I shortened the track adjusters both sides by about 1/4" each end to give a total of 1" extra toe in, and removed all the shims, which has helped but negative camber is still evident, and the only way of fixing that is either adjustable top arms, or cut the original pressings and let some metal in; for the moment I don't think the camber is excessive.
  • 13-09-2019, 07:37
    Austin Martin
    Looks like it needs the shims removing, whether there is enough adjustment I don't know; adjustable top arms would probably be a fix, albeit an expensive one! not really sure on the new height, a bit difficult to tell with only one side done, but my main goal was disc brakes on the front, as I was happy with the ride height, the drop spindles were part of the package, but I also knew that the brake kit for the drop spindles probably wouldn't fit the std spindle assy.
  • 12-09-2019, 21:51
    add shims to the top wishbone (pivot end). they'll bolt between the pivot thingy and the chassis and will push the wishbone out to correct the camber. if the pivot is inboard of the chassis mounting point take out some shims (same for each bolt or you'll alter caster too). if this still doesn't work just shorten or extend the wishbone (it's only metal after all). that's some options for you to look at mate.
  • 12-09-2019, 17:53
    Austin Martin
    It's Impala time! took the rad over to Swalkool radiators, he was a diamond geezer and sorted it for next day, for 20! he did say it was a bit old and crusty (think he was talking about the rad) and that it really needed a rebuild, but that was 270...

    Undeterred by current wisdom or logic I purchased a second hand drop spindle / disc brake conversion for a tri five; all I can say is yes you can make them fit but.....I think I might have more luck using the std spindle assy, and altering the brackets to fit, the discs are a good fit for the spindles.

    What the picture doesn't show, is the serious negative camber, which might have looked ok on my old Anglia, but does nothing for this old beast!
  • 02-09-2019, 07:55
    Good ones are the best mate, you don't spend months welding up rust before you start the fun stuff.
  • 02-09-2019, 06:07
    Austin Martin
    Oh I've been real tempted to chop it, but I just cant bring myself to do it to such an original car, I'll have to wait for something else less original to turn up !
  • 01-09-2019, 21:49
    i'm surprised you aren't tempted to chop it while there are no windows in it?
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