To chrome, or not to chrome? That is the question. - Reply to Topic
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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 10-12-2011, 19:24
    Stitch
    That was probably a time saving excercise Briz so they didn't have to spend so much time polishing the steel , fill any imperfections with copper as it's easier to get a good shine on it ... it's definitely to help the nickel adhere though .Copper does work harden rapidly too as the spinner I use is always quick to tell me , I don't know if the electro plating process has the same affect on it .

    As a side note ... if you leave something in the copper tank too long , I mean like a couple of days, it doesn't just keep getting thicker but grows like branches - takes on the look of an old dead tree
  • 10-12-2011, 18:30
    Briz
    Quote Originally Posted by Stitch View Post
    Copper is only to help the nickel adhere to the base metal and doesn't need to be very thick , in fact if it's too thick it will split and allow the ingress of dirt and moisture shortening the life of the chrome .
    Cant agree there Stitch. Old yank bumpers had a huge amount of copper on them - to the extent that if you have to weld them the copper will contaminate the weld and cause cracks in a similar way that welding over traces of brazing does. Copper is a very soft metal and is less likely to crack than nickel. The plating on said bumpers was never prone to cracking.
  • 10-12-2011, 17:11
    russ6120
    Loads of good advice there chaps. Thank you. I wont be going down the replacement pard road (except front emblem). Kinda glad you said that.....crap loads of money for new parts anyway.......and i do know someone in the plane restoration business
    Russ
  • 10-12-2011, 16:11
    Stitch
    Copper is only to help the nickel adhere to the base metal and doesn't need to be very thick , in fact if it's too thick it will split and allow the ingress of dirt and moisture shortening the life of the chrome . Nickel is the shiny layer and nickel on it's own it's very soft and oxidises quickly , chrome is a clear protective layer which gives durability and a good shine .

    For the best of jobs try and find a long established platers that maybe also do specialist plating for the engineering and aircraft industries , then you should get that nice deep blueish shine like the old stuff and not a bright white shine like the Chinese stuff . For an unbeatable job , including any repairs or fabrication of small parts, I'd recommend Alderney Plating on 01202 744664 . I think they do a postal service also ... they can do bright or satin nickel , chrome , copper , black nickel , silver and gold plating and all sorts of metal treatments and finishes you've never heard of

    I don't use them any more myself but that's got nothing to do with the standard of their work !
  • 10-12-2011, 13:16
    68roadrunner
    Dont use that fkn Idiot at Castleford chrome platers. hes into Scooters etc. The blokes a fkn fraud.
    If anyone wants to know why. ill post up.

    and fk him, if hes on here ill still post up.
  • 10-12-2011, 11:17
    Hemi Bucket
    Rechrome the original parts, chrome repop stuff will disappoint you.
  • 10-12-2011, 10:30
    Kustom Jim
    I got some of the universal 7" headlamp trims last year and you can peel the chrome off in strips.
    Was just put straight onto the mild steel - completely pointless.
    Presume they must know and just don't care.

    Jimbob
  • 10-12-2011, 09:22
    English Impala
    Every chromed reproduction part I've bought from the US over the last few years has rusted. Fact. this ranges from wheels (chromed steel "smoothies"), rocker covers and other engine dress-up brackets. These went rusty while the car sat in the garage. The quality was on-par with chrome plated bathroom accessories you get from B&Q that rust within a month. The quality was so **** that afterwards I clear-laquered any new chrome parts that helped, but look crap when the laquer started to peel!

    On my Ranchero I've only used New Old Stock chromed parts (door handles, locks etc) or parts that have been rechromed by "known" platers (bumpers, trim etc). These were done by the previous owner so I can't comment on who did them (the bumpers were actually done in the US before being shipped over).

    If your original parts are badly pitted, it will cost a lot to have them prepared prior to plating, so for those parts I'd consider buying repro parts and have them rechromed when they start to show signs of rusting. Keeping them polished with a good quality polish will help to slow down the rust.

    If having parts rechromed, go to someone who is recommended by more than one person. Steve Lang gets parts done and a lot seem happy with the quality (ask on the NSRA site). Derby Plating always used to get a lot of praise from the classic car magazines, but their prices reflected the quality!

    I do remember seeing a product in Custom Car that was applied to bare metal to stop it rusting, you warmed the part then applied this wax and buffed it off, it might be worth trying it on chrome plated repro parts? Can't remember its bloody name though!!!!!
  • 10-12-2011, 08:53
    sidspop
    Quote Originally Posted by lambretta_ash View Post
    start off **** me i cant spell haha
    well are chromers in walsall do a thick copper and the rest i can get the right timings of them as we do alot i can put pictures of are chromed items up and i dont do **** always proper jobs
    and briz i cant think of the name ill get it monday and post it up so u can go direct save time.... look below for some shinny shinny
    Howells Chroming, just off Stafford Street. I had my door handles re-chromed by them 3 years ago, still looking perfect. If memory serves me right cost me 35.
  • 09-12-2011, 23:32
    lambretta_ash
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