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Post a reply to the thread: Coolant level.
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When you check the thermostat make sure it has a bleed hole.
if air gets trapped under the thermostat it won't be able to sense the water temperature, so it won't open.
Hi, cheers for the reply's . Its all pretty simple, so cant see where there could be an airlock, truck hasn't got a heater so cant get one there. I never thought of the water boiling in the heads tho, I may take the stat out see how it goes from there. the truck , as far as I can see, never had a heater, and it ran before I bought it. new to V8,s so still learning . . . . . .
thanks again for the info.
make sure the heater loop actually flows constantly, if it’s blocked off, you have very little circulation prior to the stat opening, hence it boils in the heads before the stat can open.
Make sure you haven’t got an airlock. Take out the temperature sender when filling and put it back when the water comes out. The keep filling. Leave about an inch gap below the cap
Good evening, I have a 51 F1 Ford fitted with a sbc (350), I have just had the standard Ford rad rebuilt ( had a slight, err, " off " ) fitted a new water pump and filled it up, I don't have a fan fitted at the min, but I cant drive the truck just yet, but when I start it and let it idle for a 5 m ins or so, it spits water out from the rad over flow . I'm just starting it regularly as its standing outside, and I like to hear it run. . . ..
I fitted a new rad cap, it seems to be the same as my series land rover, but the symptoms are the same as with the original cap. Now I filled the rad almost to the top, so it will find its own level as the water expands I no, but after a fortnight of starting it, I had to put 3 ltrs of coolant back in the rad.
I'm looing at changing the stat next, just in case, but it doesn't appears to to over heating, just spitting some water out.
Anyone have any ideas, I don't want to get it on the road and find it overheats and I cook it,
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