Bonding glass scoop to steel hood? - Reply to Topic
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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 25-11-2009, 17:20
    evilzee28
    Quote Originally Posted by firebird68 View Post
    Thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me out , the great thing about this site is the talented people who are happy to share their experience,best wishes to you all.
    Nige, I will try the method you gave me, might even take some pix and post on here so you can see the results.
    No worries, glad to help . Any queries let me know & I'll try to help, cheers....Nige
  • 25-11-2009, 17:19
    Plumpcars
    Happy to say I was wrong!
  • 25-11-2009, 17:18
    firebird68
    Thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me out , the great thing about this site is the talented people who are happy to share their experience,best wishes to you all.
    Nige, I will try the method you gave me, might even take some pix and post on here so you can see the results.
  • 25-11-2009, 12:09
    evilzee28
    Righto here we go I've done an awful lot of this over the years having owned my own fibreglass laminating shop supplying & fitting 'glass panels to steel bodies. Firstly DO NOT!!!! use SMS to bond on panels, it's not designed for this & will crack!! it'a a fibreglass/kevlar mix that is used to repair plastic parts or can be used like the old "Bridge A Gap" to fill holes. Please don't use it to bond panels to steel.

    Firstly set the scoop onto the bonnet & position it where it needs to go. Once happy with the fit, drill a series of 1/8" holes through the scoop mounting flange into the hood & secure with self tappers. Drill the holes around 2" apart. Remove the scoop & grind off the paint from your hood using a 24 grit disc, this will give a good key before glassing the scoop on. Grind an area of approximately 4-5 inches wide, with 1" to the inside of the drilled holes. Then grind the underside of the scoop flange until it's about 1/8" thick, again with a 24 grit disc, this should make the underside of the 'glass flange smooth without any undulations of matt visible. Trial fit the scoop to the hood again.


    Once happy with the fit, remove the scoop & cut some strips of 450 gramme chopped strand fibreglas matt around 2" wide. Make sure you have enough cut for 2 layers. Mix your resin & catalyst together & brush onto the bare metal. Then lay the 2 layers of matte onto your steel hood covering your pre drilled holes. allow 1/2" to the inside of the holes & the remaining 1 1/2" to the outside of the holes. Align your scoop into place & now screw the self tappers into all of the holes. This will compress the wet matte between the steel hood & the 'glass scoop. You should now have approximately 1 1/2" of matte visible from the edge of your scoop around the whole of your scoop.

    Leave to cure for 48 hours. Once fully cured, remove the screws. Now at this stage most people get out the SMC or body filler & blend to shape. NO!! At this point the scoop is only bonded to the surface of the 'glass/steel hood & still has the holes that were drilled in it visible.We need to "sandwich" the scoop between the glass on the hood & an outer layer of glass. The next thing to do is to grind down the 1 1/2" of 'glass along with the top flange from the scoop until it "blends" into the steel hood. Once happy that there are no "steps" between the scoop flange, 'glass & steel hood, clean with some pre paint wipe & blow off with an airline, this will remove any dust/residue left from grinding down the 'glass.

    Now at this point you still have the 1/8" holes that were drilled from the initial bonding process. Again cut some strips of 'glass matte 3" wide, (enough for 2 layers). Mix up your resin & catalyst & brush it over the scoop flange, covering the holes & also over the 'glass that's left protruding from the bonding process. Lay your 2 layers of matte over that & then use a steel roller (obtained from your 'glass suppliers) to roll out the resin & matte. This will remove any air bubbles trapped in the 'glass/resin. Allow to cure for 48 hours.

    Once fully cured, again grind this lot smooth until it gently blends into the steel hood without any "steps or undulations". Once happy, pre paint wipe, blow clean & then get to work with the filler. I firstly use one small skim of SMC to fill any of the small holes left in the 'glass after grinding, followed by body filler. To get it so that you're unable to notice the transition between the 'glass & the steel hood you'll probably end up making the filler repair 6-8" out from the 'glass scoop. If done correctly this will not crack

    Once it's all to the desired shape, sand it down & coat it with some epoxy or etch primer, followed by your 2k primer. Hope that helps,


    cheers.....Nige
  • 25-11-2009, 10:20
    Dave'29Ford
    How about some Dzus fastener plates coming up vertical inside the scoop and the Dzus buttons on the bottom edge outside the scoop. I recently did one in this way to avoid the problems your concerned about.
  • 25-11-2009, 09:13
    bigjob
    There's quite a few 2pack panel bonding adhesives avalable nowadays(most of them derived from the aircraft industry)The one i would use is 3M-08115,it will not crack (in normal use)Thatchem reseach centre glued a cavalier body shell together around 79/80ish, using this stuff and it was still flying around there place in the late 90's !,Bry
  • 25-11-2009, 07:58
    Plumpcars
    Problem on an American bonnet is that large expanse of wobbly metal!
  • 24-11-2009, 21:00
    hurtz
    Quote Originally Posted by vin likes diesel View Post
    sms body filler , when my mate done my bros rear arches on his 100e (lengthened fibre glass arches ) he put in a couple of self tappers as a giude and then put the sms filler on both surfaces and bonded them together , that was four years ago and no cracking at all
    as vin said my mate used sms filler[looks like very fine black fibre glass] he bonded the arch to the under side of the wing ,self tapered ad clamped to the rear quarter.when it went off he removed the two screws and g clamps and spread the sms filler on the outside.he repairs lotus`s and the likes for a living
  • 24-11-2009, 19:30
    blackpopracing
    Or glass studs to the bottom of the scoop and bolt it on?
    Have a proper join then with possible piping on it. (like arch piping).
  • 24-11-2009, 19:19
    vin likes diesel
    sms body filler , when my mate done my bros rear arches on his 100e (lengthened fibre glass arches ) he put in a couple of self tappers as a giude and then put the sms filler on both surfaces and bonded them together , that was four years ago and no cracking at all
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