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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 22-08-2013, 21:59
    road rage
    Thanks Darren, it is getting there, ends up there were/are a couple of issues, first of the front lines were gummed up so they would not bleed, the next is the proportion valve, basically its had it and as far as I have been told its an obsolete part, but thanks to US Automotive I have a generic one being sent, so once its plumbed in all should be good....he says with everything crossed.
  • 20-08-2013, 22:16
    Darren West
    hope all goes well mate
  • 20-08-2013, 22:03
    road rage
    Thanks for the the info and suggestions gents, but I admit I gave up after one thing led to another, not only would the fronts not bleed, the rear shoes needed doing which i did, then a wheel cylinder was siezed and to top it of the pipe feeding said cylinder split, so its in the very capable hands of a local yank specialist as lately every thing i touch turns to SH*T haha.
    I will post the outcome when the truck is done.
    Thanks again
    Rob
  • 13-08-2013, 13:53
    MikeS
    Quote Originally Posted by JackGriffin View Post
    Is it that necessary to bleed the rears if only the front calipers have been swapped, and the master cylinder has not been allowed to drain down? It might be a good idea to do it, but is there a reason it would be required?
    If you clamped the front flexis and the master cylinder stayed full then in theory you wouldn't need to bleed the rears. However, I always do it just for the peace of mind, if I don't do it the pedal never feels quite right. I'm sure it's in my head but hey-ho.
  • 13-08-2013, 12:57
    JackGriffin
    Is it that necessary to bleed the rears if only the front calipers have been swapped, and the master cylinder has not been allowed to drain down? It might be a good idea to do it, but is there a reason it would be required?
  • 12-08-2013, 18:30
    road rage
    Thanks for all the tips and help so far gents, I hadnt bled the rears to start with but i will do on the next attempt, the rear shoes also need replacing so i got those today and will start to fit them up tomorrow, then depending on time etc i may have another crack at the bleeding.

    The master on my truck has a rectangular cover so the standard fittings that come with the Gunson kit etc dont fit so I will see if i can rig something up, fortunately i have a local truck specialist that has offered to help if all else fails.

    Thanks again I will post the results

    All the best
    Rob
  • 11-08-2013, 12:29
    robo1
    I had an old 1980 c10 truck, that thing had a tit on the brake proportioning valve that you needed to push in to reset/bleed the system. It was bolted to the chassis down on the offside chassis rail but still visible when you opened the bonnet. It would not bleed properly until it was pushed in.

    bob

    Here is a piccie of a ford one, cant get one for the chev but its much the same thing.
    http://www.fordification.com/board/p...e_dentside.jpg

    Found a chev one you can see the gadget on the end, a small rod that pushes in.
    http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...and_Bendix.jpg
  • 11-08-2013, 11:45
    neil still building it
    another tip to prevent fluid loss while you've got the system apart if to wedge a block of wood against the seat onto the brake pedal to push the pedal down a couple of inches..this means the piston shuts off the inlets in the master cylinder and so stop it all draining down with gravity...always works for me,as for bleeding some cars are a bitch for sure ,corvette calipers are recommended to be prebled before you get them near the car,i suppose you could always leave them plumbed in but dont fit them onto the car so it leaves you free to move them about to help bubbles flow through and out the bleed screw before you fit them up on the hub,also make sure the pistons are fully in the calipers even wedge with wood or gently with a wide screwdriver-just be careful you dont mark anything...of course if the calipers still off the hub you could wedge wood between the pads very easily
    neil
    or failing ALL that reverse bleed them *up to the master cylinder and recover the fluid with a syringe or similar from the 'top' (m/cyl) instead
    *a snap on type brake bleeder/handpump
  • 11-08-2013, 11:02
    stilltrying
    On my 97 Suburban I had loads of problems bleeding the brakes only to find one of the pipes had sprung a leak, kept adding fluid and no brake pressure until I eventually saw fluid draining out of one of the chassis legs Doh!

    Anyway hopefully your manual will tell you to fill your master cylinder and then bleed the brake furthest away from the master cylinder (usually the off side rear on a yank), then do the next furthest away (near side rear), then the next (off side front) and finally the last one. Keep an eye on the fluid level and top up as required. To most this sounds like telling your grand mother how to suck eggs but as you didn't know to bleed the rears when you first started I thought I would add to the discussion. Good luck, oh and as a side benefit the GF's legs will get more defined due to pumping the brake pedal so much
  • 11-08-2013, 07:59
    Big Joe
    I use the Gunson pressure bleeding gadget, works every time although the bottle is a bit small
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