Originally Posted by SpannerPete

I've used a 6mm thick steel disk instead of a rag joint, that won't break I couldn't see how to easily join the steering shaft to the original splined connector (it's split so it can tighten up on the splines) so I used the completed bottom half of the original rag joint without the rubber bit.

UJ's and new shaft are land rover disco items, 2 UJ's, rag joint (with safety pins) and shaft for just over £30 (new) which seemed cheap to me.

Clearance on the four bar is fine, it's the angle of the photo that makes it look worse than it is.

yep i can see what you done there pete looks all good, the flex [if any] will be taken care of by the u/j,s not the disc,

I've used a 6mm thick steel disk instead of a rag joint, that won't break I couldn't see how to easily join the steering shaft to the original splined connector (it's split so it can tighten up on the splines) so I used the completed bottom half of the original rag joint without the rubber bit.

UJ's and new shaft are land rover disco items, 2 UJ's, rag joint (with safety pins) and shaft for just over £30 (new) which seemed cheap to me.

Clearance on the four bar is fine, it's the angle of the photo that makes it look worse than it is.

Regarding the rag type joints vince, the one shown in an earlier post didnt appear to have any safty pins incorporated in the design, so if the small bolts snap you got no steering at all, there is a type of rag joint as fitted to nissan patrols for instance that still enables you to steer the vehicle if the bolts shear, to a somewhat limited degree anyhow, personally i like to have something a little more substantial than a glorified exhaust hanger as a means of steering. also the u/j type joint is much better at operating at sharper angles.[should of put this in the pm really]

Originally Posted by satan

i,m gonna be blunt here pete, get rid of that rubber joint or your gonna be meeting me sooner than you might want to. please dont be offended, but i woulnt put that on a kids go cart, you need a decent steering shaft with a proper u/j on each end then you will have more chance of lining it all up, put the box in the correct place for the steering,and then when that works ok, work on connecting the steering shaft and wheel to it.

Not wanting to Hijack the thread but are the rubber joints no good then (guess whos using 1)

Originally Posted by SpannerPete

Couple of pictures of the new steering box...

That looks so much better and the only issue i can see that MAY cause an issue (not visible by the pics) is if it misses when the suspension is on full drop as the top bar on the 4 bar looks like it may catch (but could just be the pic angle)

That is virtually the same as the POS ( original Jago set up ) except the box is to the rear of the 4 bar.

now thats much more like it,

Couple of pictures of the new steering box...

Originally Posted by kapri

How much slop when pointed straight ahead ? You are allowed quite a lot for MOT but it a lot can be adjusted out.

Upto a 3rd of a turn of the steering wheel ...... i think Kev

And i went to adjust mine the other day but upon taking out the filler plug to check oil level i could see there was very little (NONE) play

Originally Posted by kapri

How much slop when pointed straight ahead ? You are allowed quite a lot for MOT but it a lot can be adjusted out.

Got a picture of the new box installed?

It's pretty good straight ahead it's just off center there seems to be some slop. It's a second hand box so it might need adjusting or could be knackered but I've nothing to compare against.

I'll get a photo of the new box tonight.

How much slop when pointed straight ahead ? You are allowed quite a lot for MOT but it a lot can be adjusted out.

Got a picture of the new box installed?