quick tech Q: how to prep for paint?
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  1. #1
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie alistair's Avatar
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    quick tech Q: how to prep for paint?

    Hey guys, its probably as long since I passed my driving test as I built a model kit but I spotted a couple of kits on clearance in a local shop and picked them up.

    Now I've bought spray cans to paint them and I remember as a kid not having very good results - althouth I tried using car paint from the local spares shop etc...

    Meh.

    So do I need to do anything to ensure a good adhesion? I'd thought of washing the kit parts (body, hood, etc.) and maybe using a washing up pad on them?

    Or am I over-thinking this...

    Cheers

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    Official RnS Addict eviltwin's Avatar
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    hello alistair.

    first of all you need a good car primer, some 200, 600 and 1200 grade emery paper. you need to sand the surface to create a key for the primer, once all the glossy surface has been sanded, wash the body with warm water and a brush. the brush will aid the dispersal of swarf in the nooks and crannys. let the body air dry and then lay on two to three thin coats of primer and let dry for 48 hours. use the 600 grade and wet sand the surface, but don't worry about going through to the plastic as the idea is to get rid of the high spots. wash the surface as you did before and let air dry and repeat the process until the surface is totally smooth and covered in primer.

    when you are happy, apply colour and you may wish to do the same as i do, colour sand and finally clear coat, sand and polish.

    hope this helps.

    steve

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    I'm a grown up member now ! ttoli's Avatar
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    Firstly are the bodies warped?, hot water and leverage will sort it out, mold lines?, sand them down either flexi files or nail buffers (Superdrug), wash the body/Panels with soap/ washing up liquid,rinse and allow to dry , shake F:****er: out of the cans and warm in a jug of hot water, prime, allow to gas out (Sniff the body- if you can smell solvents, it aint dry), light sanding with 800 grit, address any problem areas,prime if needed,(Wash and dry again) and you're ready for the 1st mist coat, arches, engine bay and boot, again allow to gas out, then build the coats up from there . Main thing is let it dry properly (if you can smell solvents, it aint dry), then its your choice, clearcoat or Brasso, Meguires scratch X , polish.

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  6. #4
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie alistair's Avatar
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    Cheers, I am just using modelling spray this time around so I don't think I need to be quite so enthusiastic, I bet if I tried colour sanding a model kit I'd sand out all the detail mouldings! I've not built one in 20+ years...

    I'll post my results...

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    Official RnS Addict Cycolac Fan's Avatar
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    Everything above is excellent advice but I hope the guys won't mind if I add to what's already been said.

    Most paints today are compatible between manufacturers, I tend to use Halfords' for everything. However if you've got some older paints you might want to try it on the underneath of the body or the chassis where mistakes or bad paint reactions are easier to hide. The old Car Plan stuff didn't even like its own primer sometimes.

    Mount the body on an old coat hanger or similar bent to shape where it can be hung up to dry. I use masking tape to secure it to the hanger. Like so:



    same '61 Plymouth but different time (I change the masking tape on the inside of the bodyshell frequently since it often dries out or becomes soaked by paint and once you drop a freshly painted 'shell on the dusty carpet...)



    It's a good idea to warm the can before spraying but beware of using very hot water - cans are under enormous pressure (especially when full) and can explode with nasty results. If the water's too hot for your hand it's way too hot for the can. Warm it, don't heat it.

    Dry the water off the outside of the can throughly, it's depressing to have nice paint ruined by tap water splashes.

    Wear a mask and preferably eye protection too, if it's windy paint overspray goes everywhere - your face, the missus' new white kitchen worktop, your 25 stone neighbour's Harley Davidson...

    When applying paint, dust on the first coats of primer by keeping the can about 2 or 3 feet away and build the paint up gradually.
    Do the same with the first few coats of colour, you want it almost drying as it touches.
    That way the next coats will grip and are less likely to flow away from panel lines or raised parts on the body.

    Get a bit closer with the colour coats and keep the can moving or the paint will build up in one place. It's always easier to add more paint than remove it.

    Painting outside is the best way to find out just how much dust there is in atmosphere. Wasps and cats seem to enjoy having a good look at shiny paint too.

    Getting paint on smoothly can take years of practice so don't get discouraged.
    And please do show us the results.
    Mike
    Last edited by Cycolac Fan; 05-05-2011 at 23:48.

  8. #6
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie alistair's Avatar
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    Thanks for that. I've gone on a bit of a buying spree, just starting doing some building now.

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