1k vs 2k paint
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Thread: 1k vs 2k paint

  1. #1
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    1k vs 2k paint

    Hi,

    I was wondering if anyone could fill me in on the pros and cons of using 1k base and clear instead of 2k?

    I repainted my Morris 3 years ago with 2k, and whilst it looks pretty damn good, I have since developed a much better painting and prep technique and am getting really frustrated by all the shortcuts I took as a novice (i.e. painting over blistered paint on the roof, so you can see patches of it distorting the gloss)

    I painted it when I knew nothing about the dangers of 2k, and did it with a decent paint mask - but really don't want to do this again and don't have the money for an air fed mask.

    I've been using 1k base and clear on a few panels for mates recently, but have read that 2k was developed to make up for the shortcomings of 1k... could anyone elaborate on what these shortcomings are?

    I want to repaint the Mog with a solid base and then a clear. How does the durability / shine / hardness of 1k compare to that of 2k?

    Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated

    Cheers

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    Most of the available Ik lacquers are designed for door shuts and underbonnet only without the durability required for full paint jobs. In fact if you check the spec sheets they normally point this out.

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    Had a car done in 1 pack - had it done again in 2 Pack about 6 months later because it lost all it's shine in pretty short order.

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    Really?! Oh man! So is it really a toss up between celly and 2k? I used some celly a while ago on something else and had similar problems regarding loss of shine.
    Or could I paint a 1k base and then see if I can borrow a booth for doing a 2k clear coat on top?
    Or should I just go 2k all the way through?

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    2k is not a major problem as long as you treat it with respect.
    Wear a good mask and either paint outside, of fit a good extractor fan to the garage (I use a 16" car rad fan for this, work brilliantly).
    If you have access to a proper booth, then this is obviously best, but otherwise take good precautions ~ full overalls, gloves, proper mask and walk away as soon as you have fnished painting. Remove clothes and wash them (or use disposable paint suits) and have a shower.
    Only go back the next day (ideally) or some time later when fumes have dissapated.
    Do not spend time around painted parts untill they have cured.

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    I've potentially got access to a paint booth - will need to look into it, but fingers crossed I can use one.
    Damn, was really hoping 1k would be ok, but I guess 2k looks like the way to go.
    Cheers for the comments

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    1K is ****. I painted my altered with it and it's just not durable enough. You can't put it on heavy enought to match the gloss of 2K and it shrinks back just like cellulose, ie wait weeks for it to cure then polish it. Fork out the money, take it to the booth, do both base and 2K clear there as many bases need to be cleared with X amount of time for best adhesion etc.

    @ Blackpop, I do all that with ref to 2K safety but am always concerned by overspray being left breathable. Is it just the isocyantes in the fumes whilst curing or can the overspray /dust be harmful afterwards too ?

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    RFU 1K lacquer ( Ready For Use) is the worst one , more than a couple of coats without aweek between them and you will see tiny cracks appearing. Celly lacquer will yellow over time and acrylic is the best though you then have to worry about compatability of substrates.

    I LOVE celly finish on older cars , just looks 'right' to me , especially with the swirls after hand polishing but the prep has to be spot on and few recently trained painters understand the level of prep required ( nor can they usually be arsed !) . My compromise is that I use a 2k primer ( removes sinkage issues ) with celly topcoat , even with metallics though not all a formulated in celly.

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    hmmmm, that is bad news indeed, i now feel rather bad for painting those panels in 1k!
    I'm not that into celly as I've had issues with it in the past and having had no formal training probably don't know the ins and outs of prep for it. Looks like I'm going to have to see if I can borrow this booth and do it in 2k.
    I know that you can get away with using solid colours without a clear coat in 2k, but can one also clear a solid in 2k? I really want the super deep finish that a clear coat gives...

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    If you want to use clear then you normally use base rather than a gloss coat , otherwise you can have difficulties with bonding bewteen the 2 unless you allow it to flash and then lightly scotch ,which all adds time to a paint job . Little point if you can get the colour in base.

    I'd disagree that a 2k paint job is 'deep' , shiny yes, but celly looks like you can walk into it, rare to see 2k paint that looks like that? There is terminology that defines the difference bewteen depth and shine , or was it gloss and shine...can't remember now

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