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Thread: 1k vs 2k paint

  1. #21
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plumpcars View Post
    You'll get different answers from different parts of the paint trade. A general repairer will do things differently to a custom or high end restorative painter. This is not a reflection on their ability but each aspect of the paint trade has a different set of requirements. A repairer has to work to insurance hours normally so speed is vital. To a high end painter or custom painter the speed is not so important as the final quality and quality takes hours and sometimes different methods/materials. Mate has just put 300 hours into a custom paint job on a 32 roadster and before the critics start that was not a 'lets rip the customer off' job. I have the utmost respect for his patience on a job like this.
    My Watson style scallop job on my last Kapri took 360 hours Steve, and believe me I wanted it done as quick as poss , that was simply the time it took to do it correctly. We must have done 36 hours over 6 weeks just painting the roof in air drying lacquered metalflake.

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  3. #22
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farncombe pop View Post
    Mid 70's Kev? we had the rep do the same tests back then, agree on the celly and touch in's ... so much better for polishing the "edge" in after a few days, but a bugger for sinking and that old "fried egg" on repairs that's where 2k really came into it's own.
    Yup, I was working down at USG Portsmouth in Commercial garage and paint shop, Baron King used to be the ONLY suppliers for miles around. I can honestly say I've NEVER had sinkage on my celly paint jobs ,maybe just lucky or simply because I take so long to prep that it's sunk all it wants before I got to flatting the primer out and painting

  4. #23
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    Black magic Racing is offline
    Hi

    Why dont you try using a good quality water base and a water base clearcoat i am a tech for a paint company and use these products everyday infact my race car is painted in water from primer to clear its easy to use with no special equipment required and drys with a hairdryer move with the times people ?

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  6. #24
    Official RnS Addict Zody's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom Jim View Post
    Hi Zody,

    do you ever put clear lacquer on ya celly?

    I've spent kin ages cutting back my paint job attempt and aint sure how much paint is left on .
    It does look fab mind, but just wondering if it should have some lacquer on so future buffs ups
    don't take no more paint off.

    cheers
    KJ
    Hi Jim

    Never have used Lacquer on celly....all I do is apply 4 x coats (10/15 min intervals) then wait another 20 min
    & apply 2 x more coats, this gives you ample for flatting I always start with 1000 & finish with 1500, buff G3 finish G10.

    example :
    Last edited by Zody; 12-08-2010 at 21:29.
    The car is open, the keys are under the dog !

  7. #25
    Official RnS Addict farncombe pop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Yup, I was working down at USG Portsmouth in Commercial garage and paint shop, Baron King used to be the ONLY suppliers for miles around. I can honestly say I've NEVER had sinkage on my celly paint jobs ,maybe just lucky or simply because I take so long to prep that it's sunk all it wants before I got to flatting the primer out and painting
    If only we had that time in a bodyshop, and no heated booths back then... in and out in three days !

    Iv'e gone for 2k from flebay shop for the truck....5ltr paint + harderner + thinners and 2lr 2k primer +harderner + thinners total £130.
    Here to help !

  8. #26
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    Last litre of Glasurit 2k solid colour I bought was £80.00, some years ago now!

  9. #27
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WB54 View Post
    @ Blackpop, I do all that with ref to 2K safety but am always concerned by overspray being left breathable. Is it just the isocyantes in the fumes whilst curing or can the overspray /dust be harmful afterwards too ?
    I'm no expert on it, but I dont believe the cured dust is bad for you. Mind you, there isn't really any dust with 2K as wherever it lands it flows out and sticks to!
    This is the thing with 2K, it really flows and takes 20 mins or so to flash off. (great for runs till you get the hang of it).

    However, ANY dust is not good for you, so always wear some form of mask when cleaning up dust etc.

    Overspray in the air is bad obviously as its not cured.

  10. #28
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    I'm no expert on it, but I dont believe the cured dust is bad for you. Mind you, there isn't really any dust with 2K as wherever it lands it flows out and sticks to!
    This is the thing with 2K, it really flows and takes 20 mins or so to flash off. (great for runs till you get the hang of it).

    However, ANY dust is not good for you, so always wear some form of mask when cleaning up dust etc.

    Overspray in the air is bad obviously as its not cured.
    I know what you mean, everything should be cured I just worry about anything left over

  11. #29
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black magic Racing View Post
    Hi

    Why dont you try using a good quality water base and a water base clearcoat i am a tech for a paint company and use these products everyday infact my race car is painted in water from primer to clear its easy to use with no special equipment required and drys with a hairdryer move with the times people ?
    how about writing some tech about about painting waterbased at home ? Lots of hobbie people just getting used to 2K, if the health side of waterbased is better than 2K, how about giving us some pointers on how it should be applied. I was led to beleive it needed proper airflow, and extraction to dry ?

  12. #30
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    Waterbased is not an easy option , I remember the painters at a firm I worked for having problems with it [ and these were experienced painters using the best professional gear and booth !]
    What I would say is that for home use a 2K high build primer , sprayed over a light coat of etch primer , then followed by cellulose top coats is a good way to go . Get the basics right at the primer stage and the cellulose will go on nicely ,and if you make any errors it is easy to flat back by hand unlike 2k.

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