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Thread: 1k vs 2k paint

  1. #31
    Dragging not Bragging vince-305's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black magic Racing View Post
    Hi

    Why dont you try using a good quality water base and a water base clearcoat i am a tech for a paint company and use these products everyday infact my race car is painted in water from primer to clear its easy to use with no special equipment required and drys with a hairdryer move with the times people ?
    Ive heard all sorts about water based mostly bad ............... everything from its worse than celly as thin as water (understandable) no air dry (needs a booth) prep has to be spot on where 2k is quite forgiving

    When my dad had his coach firm everything was enamel big bro used to get an amazing finish with celly (1200 and fairy liquid far superior to any compound) i hadnt even heard of 1500 + paper till i saw the yank programs (Boyd and Foose) and i was taught using ICI 2k at collage (yep you read that rite im learnerd )
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  3. #32
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird68 View Post
    Waterbased is not an easy option , I remember the painters at a firm I worked for having problems with it [ and these were experienced painters using the best professional gear and booth !]
    What I would say is that for home use a 2K high build primer , sprayed over a light coat of etch primer , then followed by cellulose top coats is a good way to go . Get the basics right at the primer stage and the cellulose will go on nicely ,and if you make any errors it is easy to flat back by hand unlike 2k.
    Sorry,
    Gotta disagree with some of that.
    Etch primer can often react with a lot of paints unless you check compatability first.

    Far better to go with epoxy primer, sticks just as well as etch and is waterproof too (no other primers to my knowledge are). It also is compatable with any topcoat you wish to put on it.

    All these people who think 2K is hard to flat??? either I'm super tough or everyone else expects it to flat in 10 secs??
    I've always found it easy enough to flat off, especially if done within 48 hours of painting.

  4. #33
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Sorry,
    Gotta disagree with some of that.
    Etch primer can often react with a lot of paints unless you check compatability first.

    Far better to go with epoxy primer, sticks just as well as etch and is waterproof too (no other primers to my knowledge are). It also is compatable with any topcoat you wish to put on it.

    All these people who think 2K is hard to flat??? either I'm super tough or everyone else expects it to flat in 10 secs??
    I've always found it easy enough to flat off, especially if done within 48 hours of painting.
    How hard do you reckon it will be to do after 4 years ?

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  6. #34
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Still easy Kev, took me about 4 years to get round to flatting off the Camaro's bonnet, only took an afternoon to cut it right down and polish back up to a mirror finish.

  7. #35
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    The Camero bonnet is about the same area as my 27 body so should be fine then ?

  8. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Sorry,
    Gotta disagree with some of that.
    Etch primer can often react with a lot of paints unless you check compatability first.

    Far better to go with epoxy primer, sticks just as well as etch and is waterproof too (no other primers to my knowledge are). It also is compatable with any topcoat you wish to put on it.

    All these people who think 2K is hard to flat??? either I'm super tough or everyone else expects it to flat in 10 secs??
    I've always found it easy enough to flat off, especially if done within 48 hours of painting.
    Never had a problem with etch reacting myself ,best to stick with one manufacturers system or a good supplier can normally advise on compatability . Yes epoxy primer is good and would be an alternative to etch ,but what I was really getting at is a system that Joe Average can use in a domestic setting. Mopping back 2K is about the easiest way of ruining a paintjob known to man, unless you happen to be experienced and know how to handle a power mop...Cellulose cuts back easily by hand ,you can colour - sand it using 1200 and 1500 paper and end up with a deep glass like finish ,just takes a little time but well worth the effort...

  9. #37
    MHT
    20th Century Schizoid Man MHT's Avatar
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    Just to add something else to the mix.
    What does 1K & 2K actually mean, 1-pack and 2-pack(with hardener)?
    I have been reading an old Metalflake book and a HOK Tech manual. What are acrylic lacquer (1 or 2 pack?) and urethane or urethane enamel in English?
    Oh, and can you spray celly laquer over 2K lacquer?
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  10. #38
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    2K is 2 pack. Paint and added hardener. I'm guessing that 1K is just single pack (just paint?)
    Not sure about the acrylic but think its the older generation of paint. Again, not sure but think the urethane is the newer type of 2 pack, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
    Yes you can spray celly laquer on to 2K laquer, but why on earth would you want to???

  11. #39
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Ik is paint plus thinners, 2K is paint plus thinners plus hardener.

    Acrylic lacquer is truly clear as opposed to celly which has a yellow tint that becomes more pronounced with age.

    Being able to put other material over different types can be a dodgy one, some are fine until you key for adhesion , or need a minimum period before over coating and some vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. You'll be needing ( I think to check out Lechler tech sheets ,available on the 'net

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