350 chevy first time coolant bleeding/overheating help! - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Pittaway's Avatar
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    Another idea I had, may be wrong but could I weld a vent screw in the top hose? Would that help let the air out?

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  3. #12
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Pop Browns so nice slim expansion/overflow tanks that you could neatly mount between the radiator and your grill surround.

    https://popbrowns.co.uk/?s=Overflow&post_type=product


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #13
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Pittaway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebspeed View Post
    you might need one of these,

    Sorry I didn’t even see this message, that looks like an option!

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  6. #14
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Pittaway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orange View Post
    Pop Browns so nice slim expansion/overflow tanks that you could neatly mount between the radiator and your grill surround.

    https://popbrowns.co.uk/?s=Overflow&post_type=product


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Those look spot on,

    So following what Kapri said, that would mean I wouldn’t have to move all the radiatior and grill shell up? As I’ve just got an infection in my hand, I’m struggling at the minute,Just make sure that the top of the expansion tank is higher than the engine? And the overflow port in the existing radiator goes to the bottom port on that expansion tank?
    Last edited by Pittaway; 06-08-2019 at 18:44.

  7. #15
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Recovery tank is usually fitted alongside rad . Because the rad will have a pressure cap on it will blow and let air and water out . The way the Recovery tank is configured it acts like part of the rad top tank. When the engine water cools down it creates a vacuum which then draws the water back from the recovery tank topping teh syem up and self bleeding.

  8. #16
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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  9. #17
    Official RnS Addict Slamera63's Avatar
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    I've looked these but never used one or seen them for sale in the U.K. and often thought that they look like a useful item, as it allows the coolant to burp back into the oversize funnel instead of spewing it on the floor.

    https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lil-24680
    It's only funny till someone gets hurt..........then it's friggin' hilarious

  10. #18
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie C10apache's Avatar
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    I had the same issue the last time I changed my coolant the bottom hose stayed cool even when up to operating temperature, I removed the rad cap and with the motor running I squeezed / burped the lower hose I was surprised how much air / bubbles I seen tbh, sorted the problem though

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  11. #19
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    interesting thread. I’ve got a stant vented cap on a moroso filler neck with an overflow take off. It puked it’s coolant in the first start up and i’ve not ran it since. Next time i fill the system would it help to run it up with rad cap vent open and a hose with a funnel connected to the overflow? so it can burp itself and there’s a head height to replenish the coolant ?

  12. #20
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    The big thing to remember is water expands under heat . That's why early rads had large top tanks thts do NOT get topped to the top . During the 70's the design moved to slimmer top tanks and recovery system .Later crossflow rads ( tank either end ) normally use an expansion bottle plumbed into the entire system to allow room for expanding water.

    You SHOULD find that when you remove the rad cap the water level is low ( cos it's cold) .If you just run it up without topping up you should be able to watch the level actually rise til it's almost full again. It wont go all teh way because it's at atmosphric pressure and the cap takes it way past that ie approx 2C for every lb of pressure shown on cap.

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