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  1. #11
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    For the record, here are some pictures taken 7 minutes ago of the block - as shown, it is a 1990, 1 piece main seal, none-roller block with no casting provision whatsoever for factory roller equipment.






    So, just to confirm, there is such a thing as a post '87> retro fit kit which will be okay to use in this block despite there being no casting pads etc?

    Thanks.... just want to be certain as the parts website are very ambiguous about what a retro kit will or won't fit in terms of '+/- '87 or roller / non-roller block.

    Nobody seems to acknowledge that there is such a thing as a post '87 non-roller block.
    Last edited by Last Triumph; 13-10-2011 at 23:48.

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  3. #12
    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    I would say ask Comp Cams if you want a certain answer but the retro kit is designed for blocks with no factory provisions so I can't see the problem? It's all about keeping the lifters on track in a non guided block rather than anything else surely? May be worth a quick e mail.

  4. #13
    Official RnS Addict ALS57's Avatar
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    You will probably need to clearance the block, I had to with eagle rods and bought a notched sump just in case.
    Putting magnets near where you are grinding stops a lot of metal flying around the block.


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  6. #14
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie
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    Give either mark or kirk at bullet Cams a call for the definitive answer ..0016628935670

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    The factory roller cam lifters were individual so required the fitting kit to ensure that they didn't turn in their respective bores. The aftermarket kits use rollers on link bars to stop this happening. The factory lifters required the longer lifter bores. The aftermarket ones don't (in fact they wouldn't work in the roller blocks). A good set of lifters will cost about £450.00 if your using a solid cam on the street opt for the Hipo ones with pressurised oiling. You can use ARP studs in a 2 block which are as strong as a factory equipped 4 bolt but if you can go splayed go for it but you will require a line bore & hone of the caps afterwards. Bullet cams are excellent I run one in my engine. You can get 383 kits which use the 5.7" rod to avoid clearance issues too.
    1955-56-57 Chevy new and used parts always available from www.randrhotrodimports.co.uk who I'm proud to have sponsor my '57 Chevy race car. 9.3 @ 155.8 mph / 0-60 = 1.47 seconds! Street legal :-)

  8. #16
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Thanks everyone for your input so far. I e-mailed comp cams today and await their response. I Spoke to Real Steel who suggested a pre'87 retro kit would work but the chap didn't sound 100% convinced.

    As I'm new to this, I'm very much in the dark with these engines and feel a little overwhelmed with all the possibilities and combinations available. Some are saying 500bhp is easily achievable with a NA 383 whilst others are saying to get a real world proper UK 500 bhp on a dyno is a tall order whilst retaining any kind of usable bottom end....

    I guess much comes down to the use the vehicle is intended for. I'd want to be able to fire it up, enjoy a lumpy 'lub-thub-wobble' idle and racy agressive feel, yet have it at least so it can be driven about at as low as 1500 rpm without dying a death and having some reasonable response without too much fuss, getting smoother and more switched on above 2,000 rpm and starting to come alive after about 2,500.

    What I don't want is something that needs the clutch slipping at 2k rpm just to pull away without it throwing a wobbler. However, I am attracted to an LT-5 style top end screamer that's happy to rev it's nuts off, sound glorious in the process and pull like a train all the way up.

    I don't understand the pros and cons (except clearancing) between 5.7" or 6" rods for example, other than the pistons would need to be matched etc. What are the pros and cons of either configuration?

    I look at cam grinds and whilst I'm capable of comparing numbers, I've no clue as to what the real world affect with be with this duration, or that lift, or that separation etc. Would I want to use roller rockers too?

    I guess I fall into the trap of not knowing enough to spec from experience therefore look at all the magazine and engine builder articles where 'this and that' motor was built and produced this and that results and trying to copy that, which I guess is a potential mistake.

    How many revs do I need to shoot for at the top end? Do I say 6,200 rpm is fine and stick with torquier manifolds, greater low end flexability and hydraulic lifters etc, or do I get sucked into the attraction of pulling 7500 rpm with big cams, runners and solid rollers etc but risk an edgy motor below 2,500rpm?

    Am I right to think carb, or should I be looking into some kind of fuel injection system, whether it be tpi or direct injection (?) etc.

    Could really do with an arm round the shoulder. Thanks to everyone who has offered help on the phone and via pm so far, really appreciated - I want to do this right first time.
    Last edited by Last Triumph; 14-10-2011 at 19:57.

  9. #17
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    For a street engine, go for big torque at low revs as this is where the engine will be 90% of the time.
    7500 rpm screamers are ok for the track but any engine that revs high will always drink more too.

    I'm no expert, but my 2p worth is;
    Roller top rockers, yes.
    Roller cam, yes but less essential.
    Fi? yes if you can afford it, much more tunable, bigger torque, more mpg & easier starting.

    500 bhp is easy if you spend plenty, turbo or super charger will get you there very quickly and be more streetable I think.

    Adam Sayers is a font of info, so what he says is usually pretty good.

  10. #18
    fat rotbox rodder hurtz's Avatar
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    my 383 was built by ice.it has a flat tappet hydrolic cam dart, pro1 heads, victor junior inlet and 750 double pumper carb.it made 490 [email protected] revs and 465ftlb of torque at 4600.it has a lumpy tick over but is driveable around town and on a run returns 16-18 to a gallon at 70-mph in a 2700 lb car.i don`t know if this is of any help to you.
    Last edited by hurtz; 14-10-2011 at 20:54.
    livin' on beer 'n' jaffa cakes -one box per pint

  11. #19
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    For a street engine, go for big torque at low revs as this is where the engine will be 90% of the time.
    7500 rpm screamers are ok for the track but any engine that revs high will always drink more too.

    I'm no expert, but my 2p worth is;
    Roller top rockers, yes.
    Roller cam, yes but less essential.
    Fi? yes if you can afford it, much more tunable, bigger torque, more mpg & easier starting.

    500 bhp is easy if you spend plenty, turbo or super charger will get you there very quickly and be more streetable I think.

    Adam Sayers is a font of info, so what he says is usually pretty good.
    Thanks - but what parts to spend the money on.....?

    I know what'll happen... I'll get the hang of driving if, pull some solid 11's etc and get bitten by the bug and want more and more - you know how it goes.

    As I'm likely to want to upgrade in the future, I'm concious that the foundations shouldn't be compromised at the initial build up stage, hence my thoughts towards forged crank, rods and pistons etc and the best fasteners money can buy etc.

    I looked at NOS systems for a bit of fun research, but it would seam that to get efficient returns on them, you either need to build a motor that is compromised when off gas but great on, or vice versa in terms of cam choice, intake volumes/velocities etc.

    What's the score with blowers in a cost versus gain war compare to other tuning items?

    Any good resources for me to go and research and learn from?

    What style of Fi is commonly used.... I'm guessing TPi as direct injection doesn't fit will with gen 1 head technology etc?

    Just hungry for knowledge really about how to build the best bang for buck super strong motor with upgrade potential without having to buy everything again because I was at the limit already for the base components.

  12. #20
    richard rawlplug Torment's Avatar
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    had this set up on my non roller cammed (196 roller cam equipped small block..


    The Oddlot Drag Racing Team...havin fun is usual
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    your not drunk enough if you can lie on the floor without holding on..

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