When it was Rover powered BGP had Ladder bars and a diagonal and was street driven a lot (NSCC cars are) it worked OK but always felt very tight in the back end, which never gave me any confidence in it on the street. It worked well on the strip.
Putting a big cast iron lump in place of the Rover was always going to move the CofG forward and upset the apple cart. This was why we went to 4bars, we could make them shorter, but with more adjustment for the moved CofG, while dropping the seat height and moving it back 2". At the same time we went to a track control wishbone. The "slider" allows some body roll and the back end is now much more "comfortable" on the street
Both diagonal and wishbone set ups allow no sideways axle movement and are fine with minimal tyre clearance. A pannard rod will allways introduce some arc travel of the axle, and the shorter the rod the worse this will be. A Watts linkage is complicated to make and has lots of joints to wear. and is a problem on an axle with a rear cover.
Tyre clearance on the 4bars should not be a problem as they move with the axle, and the axle will have to be well out of track alignment to foul tyres on these. Inside or outside of rear tubs is another matter, and a no sideways arc type rear end will help.
Do as Electric20 says get it up on sticks with no springs on the shocks and checking it out is the only real way
By the way don't under estimate how much hammer these components have to take, last year I got airbourne at York and on landing snapped a 5/8 rose joint in the track locator, at 130+ mph it was shaking it's arse around like a hundred dollar hooker
Counting miles counting tears
Twisted road shifting gears
Year after year, It's all or nothing
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