57 Chevy head lamp issue
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  1. #1
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    57 Chevy head lamp issue

    Driving back from Wheels Day on Friday and getting dark. Used the the lights for the first time since purchase last year.
    On dip beam after lights on for 10 mins or so headlamps go off and straight back on almost like a bad connection, seems worse on full beam, headlamp light drops in and out but dash lights remain on throughout. Tried again this evening with car sat in the garage, exact same problem, checked all connections behind headlamps all appear good including earths,so not a vibration issue. Any ideas guys? Has a floor mounted high beam switch could this be faulty ?

    Thanks a a Rog

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    Official RnS Addict Dr.Feelgood's Avatar
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    Ours on the 55 cut out the other night (whilst using the dip / high beam floor switch) - but that is a poor switch & will be replaced, ASAP.

    Most likely with yours (as the fault is not activated by dip switch) is the light switch itself ? I think they just get old & 'dry' with time.

    Similar issue with Wiper switch on the '55. Will be replaced as soon as I can get one.

    You might be able to bypass the switch just to test before replacing ?
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    sounds like your floor mounted dip switch.had same prob number of times

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    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Have the headlights been uprated ? Pretty sure they feature a thermal cut out in the switch itself . Higher power headlamps = quicker overheating of trip switch.

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    sid
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    as kapri said my 55 has a thermal fuse in the headlight switch that would do as you say.

    may want to go through your wiring and upgrade it somewhat.

    edit: http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/p...268%20TECH.pdf
    Last edited by sid; 17-04-2017 at 20:34.

  8. #6
    Supercharged 461 cu in prostreet70gto's Avatar
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    Tri chevy headlight switch has a by-metal strip contact on the back which are prone to melting. you can remove the switch and check by putting your hand behind the dash to feel for a small push in button on the back of the switch. Press it in and pull the switch knob out at the same time. when the centre rod and knob are out of the switch you can then undo the bezel holding the switch into the dash and carefully let it hang down underneath. you can then push the little button again and refit the rod to test the lights whilst still being able to see the switch workings. take the battery off first though until the switch is out of the dash
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    Exceeded sell by date Plumpcars's Avatar
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    Very common on Tri Chevy especially with newer light units fitted. Best cure is a new headlamp switch (as said the thermal cut out is pulsing) and run relays and heavier wiring. Fit & forget.
    Last edited by Plumpcars; 18-04-2017 at 05:15.

  10. #8
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Thanks guys, if I purchased a new switch is this a more modern item able to carry the current ? My head lamps have been upgraded. Or should I fit the relay as the post from Sid, where do I get the relay kit.

    Rog

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    Official RnS Addict timbo56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Shackleton View Post
    Thanks guys, if I purchased a new switch is this a more modern item able to carry the current ? My head lamps have been upgraded. Or should I fit the relay as the post from Sid, where do I get the relay kit.

    Rog
    Whatever option you take, fit a relay to both high and low beam. If you can't do the wiring yourself (It's dead simple) then one of the single headlamp kits at the bottom of this would do the trick http://www.brightlight-customs.co.uk...headlamps.html
    Last edited by timbo56; 18-04-2017 at 18:52.

  12. #10
    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Thanks timbo56 will have to get one of those, does one pair do for both lamps, ie one relay for low and one for high beam and does both head lights?

    Rog

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