big block chevy 454
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  1. #1
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie stang bang's Avatar
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    big block chevy 454

    hi there i am looking for some advice please i have just bought a bb chevy 454 made in 1974 two bolt main with the idea of putting it in my 1956 chevy pick up ,would like a fairly streetable motor with a bit of strip action now and then ,firstly which cam should i use and which size` carb 750 dp or an 850 dont want to over carb.the engine is in bits it has a forged crank and rods ,also need new pistons in the sale he included a spare set of milodon aluminum con rods as i need new pistons would you use these? any advise would be greatfully appreciated.

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    Carburation 'sucks' Roscobbc's Avatar
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    Mines a stroker 489 with Brodix Race Rite oval port heads, dual plane airgap inlet plus 950cfm dp carb. Cam is flat tappet hyraulic - 528 bhp/565 ft'lbs torque - perfectly streetable - see my profile for dyno sheet.
    Last edited by Roscobbc; 22-12-2010 at 01:51.

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    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    If your buying pistons, bore the block 60thou over, to 468cu in. Pistons go for forged if you can afford them. You want a single plane Edlebrock 454-R manifold, some basic Edelbrock ally heads, better castings,weight reduction, with bigger valves. Ally rods will be fine in this engine if you already have them. Cam is persomal choice but go for roller rockers, stainless valves, decent spring, caps and retainers (best get a decent cam kit). Keep the compression ratio on the lower side of 10.5-1 to use pump gas. With forged pistons and lower CR, you could add a squirt of nitrous for the strip. Carb wise dependant on heads and displacement an 850 or 950DP will do. If you go heavy with the cam and buy some good heads you could go up to a 1050 dominator but these are less streetable than the 4150 series carbs.

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    I'm a grown up member now !
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    Lots more variables to consider when using alu rods over steel , street motor with occasional run down the track i would go the steel rod route ...................FWIW ran an 1150 4500 on the street with no issues , tis all about the tuning.

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    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 605 heavy View Post
    Lots more variables to consider when using alu rods over steel , street motor with occasional run down the track i would go the steel rod route ...................FWIW ran an 1150 4500 on the street with no issues , tis all about the tuning.
    you may have had issues you we're unaware of. The 4500 3 circuit has issues with fuel flow through the jet main well. Within the metering blocks it shares the main well with the idle feed which reduces the volume of fuel able to flow. In some applications taking the jet out completly wouldn't flow enough. The fix is to convert 4150 metering blocks and change the circuits round. I dyno'd my 468 and couldn't get the AFR lower than 13.7 - 1, AFR didn't change from a 92 jet upwards, but you'll only find this with a dyno session. A 4150 if you can get away with itsize wise is far more responsive to tuning and gives better throttle response IMO.

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    Carburation 'sucks' Roscobbc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WB54 View Post
    If your buying pistons, bore the block 60thou over, to 468cu in. Pistons go for forged if you can afford them. You want a single plane Edlebrock 454-R manifold, some basic Edelbrock ally heads, better castings,weight reduction, with bigger valves. Ally rods will be fine in this engine if you already have them. Cam is persomal choice but go for roller rockers, stainless valves, decent spring, caps and retainers (best get a decent cam kit). Keep the compression ratio on the lower side of 10.5-1 to use pump gas. With forged pistons and lower CR, you could add a squirt of nitrous for the strip. Carb wise dependant on heads and displacement an 850 or 950DP will do. If you go heavy with the cam and buy some good heads you could go up to a 1050 dominator but these are less streetable than the 4150 series carbs.
    Not wishing to put-down above suggestion for a relatively light mainly strip-use vehicle but current thinking (certainly for a street biased engine) surely is to get the improved lower rev range flow velocity benefits that aftermarket oval port heads offer - (Edelbrock or whatever) Rectangular port heads would be great for higher revving engines but may loose out on low end torque compared with ovals on a relatively heavy vehicle (street truck) and auto transmission? - even some of the 'new generation' race heads for seriously 'big' cube BBC's have oval port configuration - i.e. 12 degree Man Eater heads using 2.520" inlet valves

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    I'm a grown up member now !
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    I have no issues whatsoever regards running 2/3 circuit dommies , main well resriction (idle tube) has no bearing on street manners , spark plugs are the best tuning tool if you know how to read em.

    Modified plenty 3 circuit 4500s , problem being they are pig rich @ idle/part throttle , idle tube in main well restricts fuel flow to around a 96 jet , swapped out many two circuits blocks , metering block gasket has to be modified along with idle air bleed being moved over in place of intermediate bleed , quick & easy way to convert these 3 circuit jobbies to two circuit is to block off intermediate tube with tooth pick or similar....................................lot more too it but you get the idea.

    regards those alu rods , if the OP is prepared to warm the motor before setting off then all is good , pretty likely to spin a rod bearing if not carefull when starting/driving the motor with outside temps below zero , rod end clearance can also be an issue on a street motor.
    Last edited by 605 heavy; 22-12-2010 at 18:38.

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