Brakes, dammed brakes , arrghhh - Page 2
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  1. #11
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    redoxide is offline
    In no order ...


    Brake flexis replaced

    brake drums swapped around side for side,

    They are self energising short shoe has the lead ..

    tyres are new and evenly worn, infact there aint no wear or feathering of the tread that would indicate a problem

    Its a single circuit master cylinder , viz one pipe out the port to a splitter front to rear one supply pipe does all 4 corners, no dual circuit set up.

    Master is for a drum drum application

    I also shortened the push rod a couple of mil just incase it was some additional residual pressure, that made no difference either..

    Pedal is stonkin , stomp on it and it stops the car straight and true, brake as if your nipping to the shops and it just gets progressively worse, real emergency undies type bad.... and as you keep pulling the wheel to the right to compensate for the pull, bring the car to a stop and then let the wheel go, it spins all the way to the left.... and it only does that under normal braking conditions ... Im convinced its steering /suspension, but cant get it in my head why the left brake would still be hotter than the right ...

    and dont forget it did the same with a completely different brake set up ....

    I can understand how suspension and steering geometry will make it vere in one direction when braking but I cant get it through my head why the brake would get hotter on that side as a result of bad geometry... is it a case of that corner having to do more as some weird physical force is pushing that corner harder ? ...One pedal, one system, shared fluid, how can more go to one side than the other ?

    This one is giving me sleepless nights ..

    I would go along with the geometry, Ive always thought it was, but ive never managed to convince my buddy of that , I dont think he would mind me saying hes a focused kinda chap..

    Remember, this did exactly the same thing before the wilson welding set up and buick drums were fitted.

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  3. #12
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    I did tentatively suggest that we strip and rebuild the car, doing the measuring set up and replacements as we went along.. To me thats the only way to go without chasing your tail.. sounds drastic but its just a trad style A coupe strip it in a day and rebuild it over the next 5 years ... sorted...

  4. #13
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Only other thing re brake overheating is problem with bearings themselves building heat .

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  6. #14
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    Don't want to sound stupid but are the springs in the drum all correct. I manage to put mine back in the wrong way and it was catching on the shoe making one bind
    I'm not the best welder in the world.... but I'm in the top 5!

  7. #15
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    bearings were stripped cleaned in degreaser, closely examined ( I did consider bearing pickup) repacked, a job I hate doing , and rebuilt.when I swapped the bits around yesterday I checked the bearings again and they were still packed and in order.

    No such thing as a daft answer, springs were all back in there correct position...

    remember it did this with a completely different brake set up with all different components before the new set up was fitted. "new set up" is probably not an accurate description as it was used on another car previously and it braked perfectly...

    I cant see how it can be a brake issue when

    A) It had the same problem with a completely different brake set up

    B) swapping the current parts from side to side and replacing other components doesnt make the slightest difference

    but I dont understand why the one side gets hotter than the other

    I can see why it would pull to one side if there was a geometry issue, but I dont understand how the dodgy geometry causes brake on the side it pulls to get hotter .... ?

  8. #16
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    What if you do it in reverse?....does the brake get hot or does it pull when braking gently?

  9. #17
    Gym Junkie chrisvs's Avatar
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    I would confirm that the brakes are plumbed into the correct ports on the master cylinder it is possible that a rear port is plumbed to a front which would account for the difference in temperatures.
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  10. #18
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    Take it to m.o.t station and do a brake test on the rollers??
    I'm not the best welder in the world.... but I'm in the top 5!

  11. #19
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^ Exactly what I was about to say.

    On the rollers you can try all the different styles of braking and see what's happening - this will at least eliminate the brakes if they are not the problem.
    As an aside - were the brake shoes replaced with the new brakes? if not could it be different materials - one 'grips' better than the other?

  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by german8rcoupe View Post
    What if you do it in reverse?....does the brake get hot or does it pull when braking gently?
    Thats interesting .. the adjusters work on this set up when you reverse.. sounds daft but thats how they work... I reversed it down the street braking often , both hard and light and it brakes straight ... ?

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