Radiator is HUGE !! Might be that itself which is blocking air flow . A normal Mustang 302 rad is a skinny little 2 row thing that look slike a V4 Transit rad ! The rad is certainly transferring heat in that a 30C drop is brilliant .Most are designed to drop 10-15C .
With the right set up I'd expect to see 85 during normal motoring and probably 95c in the weather we have been having lately . In a pressurised system it won't actually overheat and throw anything out until about 130c with a 15lb cap.
How well doe syour furl gauge read ? Always a posibbility that the voltage stabiliser behind the dash is shot or wired backwards. It's not earth sensitive but it isvoltage direction sensitive ie one connection is marked I for instruments and the other B .
Check your alternator output as well . I had a problem with brand new built to spec gauges that kept reading high. sent it back to be checked and they were within spec. After working out that the fault was beyond the laws of physics such as being able to drop 20C just by slowing down and in maybe 5 minutes tops it turned out to be overcharging alternator that was making the temp gauge read like a voltmeter!
Okay, to add further confusion! I've just taken it out for a run, around 8 miles, during that time the gauge got to around 1/4 off cold, not surprising as I'd taken the middle of the thermostat out to rule that out. Arrived home and pulled into the garage & left it ticking over and the needle started to climb, it got to just off maximum & the fans cut it. Top radiator tank with an el-cheapo EBay infra red thermometer read around 92 degrees. For some reason I couldn't get a stable reading from the intake where the sender is, possibly because it's an Endura-shine one and reflects the infra red?
Anyway, out of curiosity I measured the temperature of the exhaust manifold next to the heads. All read between 110 and 125 degrees, apart from the two furthest away from the front on the left side (standing at the front of the car looking at it, the front two measured 120 degrees, the next one back 175 degrees and the one nearest the bulkhead 250 degrees!
This has only added to my (easily achieved) state of confusion. Anyone understand that bit?
IR won't work on reflective surfaces, ideally flat black is best. Bear in mind you are measuring the surface temp of the manifold not the EGT and for consistency you have to measure in the same location on each tube. 120c is about right of a mild compression motor, so I'd say you have a lean cylinder, possibly due to an air leak at the manifold or idle mixture on that corner. Re-torque the manifold in that area and fiddle with the idle screws, and see if it changes it.
Re-torqued the manifold and checked all the plugs, all were the same colour. I’ll try it again tomorrow. I haven’t touched the idle screws because I don’t know where they are or what to do!
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