Cooling a 302 Ford (again) - Page 2
Have an account? Register

Forgot your password?

Forgot your username?

 
Likes Likes:  7
+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 45
  1. #11
    Compulsive chicken choker English Impala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire
    Posts
    6,189
    Images
    1030
    Post Thanks / Like
    English Impala is offline
    Quote Originally Posted by WB54 View Post
    location of the switch shouldn't be causing this, ie reading the hottest part of the engine you'd expect the fans to be on almost continually. Are you sure it would overheat if left ? Your reading of the temp at the rad is telling a different story to the gauge ? How about plumbing in a cheap gauge in the bay so you get an actual reading from the probe submersed in the coolant ?
    Seeing as the needle climbs from mid-way to the end of the scale when stationary/slow moving I think it would over-heat, on one occasion when in a traffic jam it did start to run very lumpy when it reached the end of the scale so I think it is a genuine over-heating situation. Plumbing in an inline gauge to give an actual temperature reading is a good idea, just in case the car-gauge is telling lies. The sender isn't an original Ford item, the supplier matched one up to suit the new inlet manifold with the stated resistance of an original 57 Ford one so it SHOULD be matched to the gauge, but it's obviously a questionable point.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    RodsnSods.co.uk
    Advertisements
     

  3. #12
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Portsmouth
    Posts
    23,131
    Images
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    kapri is online now
    Radiator is HUGE !! Might be that itself which is blocking air flow . A normal Mustang 302 rad is a skinny little 2 row thing that look slike a V4 Transit rad ! The rad is certainly transferring heat in that a 30C drop is brilliant .Most are designed to drop 10-15C .

    With the right set up I'd expect to see 85 during normal motoring and probably 95c in the weather we have been having lately . In a pressurised system it won't actually overheat and throw anything out until about 130c with a 15lb cap.

  4. #13
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Portsmouth
    Posts
    23,131
    Images
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    kapri is online now
    Quote Originally Posted by blackpopracing View Post
    Are you saying it runs hotter at 30mph with fans on rather than off?

    Fans are obviously restricting airflow through rad as they are in front - whether this is an issue or not I don't know.

    Is the rad sealed to the front panel? make sure there is no gap for the air to bypass going through the rad.

    If you get it recored then possibly go for an extra core - 2 rows to 3 etc. Can you take a photo close up of the type of core fitted? older cores are far less efficient than newer ones.
    NOOOOOOOOOOOO! LOL Take it to someone who knows what they are doing an d has experience dealing with Yanks ,Customs etc .

    I can tell you loads of stories about overheating vehicles caused by too large a radiator .

  5. Remove Advertisements
    RodsnSods.co.uk
    Advertisements
     

  6. #14
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Portsmouth
    Posts
    23,131
    Images
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    kapri is online now
    How well doe syour furl gauge read ? Always a posibbility that the voltage stabiliser behind the dash is shot or wired backwards. It's not earth sensitive but it isvoltage direction sensitive ie one connection is marked I for instruments and the other B .

  7. #15
    Compulsive chicken choker English Impala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire
    Posts
    6,189
    Images
    1030
    Post Thanks / Like
    English Impala is offline
    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    How well doe syour furl gauge read ? Always a posibbility that the voltage stabiliser behind the dash is shot or wired backwards. It's not earth sensitive but it isvoltage direction sensitive ie one connection is marked I for instruments and the other B .
    Fuel gauge seems to work okay. I'm going to warm it up (stationary) until the needle is at the end of the scale and take a temperature reading of the intake manifold next to the temperature sender and see what reading I get from there. I'm getting paranoid about traffic jams!

  8. #16
    Administrator blackpopracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Slough
    Posts
    8,783
    Images
    1757
    Post Thanks / Like
    blackpopracing is offline
    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    NOOOOOOOOOOOO! LOL Take it to someone who knows what they are doing an d has experience dealing with Yanks ,Customs etc .

    I can tell you loads of stories about overheating vehicles caused by too large a radiator .
    Hi Kev, note the use of the word 'possibly' lol. My rad guy wanted to go 4 core, but I stopped him at 3 (it was a 2 core Mk 2 Jag originally) which works fine -based on your advice.

  9. Likeskapri liked this post
  10. #17
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Portsmouth
    Posts
    23,131
    Images
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    kapri is online now
    Check your alternator output as well . I had a problem with brand new built to spec gauges that kept reading high. sent it back to be checked and they were within spec. After working out that the fault was beyond the laws of physics such as being able to drop 20C just by slowing down and in maybe 5 minutes tops it turned out to be overcharging alternator that was making the temp gauge read like a voltmeter!

  11. #18
    Compulsive chicken choker English Impala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire
    Posts
    6,189
    Images
    1030
    Post Thanks / Like
    English Impala is offline
    Okay, to add further confusion! I've just taken it out for a run, around 8 miles, during that time the gauge got to around 1/4 off cold, not surprising as I'd taken the middle of the thermostat out to rule that out. Arrived home and pulled into the garage & left it ticking over and the needle started to climb, it got to just off maximum & the fans cut it. Top radiator tank with an el-cheapo EBay infra red thermometer read around 92 degrees. For some reason I couldn't get a stable reading from the intake where the sender is, possibly because it's an Endura-shine one and reflects the infra red?

    Anyway, out of curiosity I measured the temperature of the exhaust manifold next to the heads. All read between 110 and 125 degrees, apart from the two furthest away from the front on the left side (standing at the front of the car looking at it, the front two measured 120 degrees, the next one back 175 degrees and the one nearest the bulkhead 250 degrees!

    This has only added to my (easily achieved) state of confusion. Anyone understand that bit?

  12. #19
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Herts
    Posts
    4,600
    Images
    198
    Post Thanks / Like
    WB54 is offline
    IR won't work on reflective surfaces, ideally flat black is best. Bear in mind you are measuring the surface temp of the manifold not the EGT and for consistency you have to measure in the same location on each tube. 120c is about right of a mild compression motor, so I'd say you have a lean cylinder, possibly due to an air leak at the manifold or idle mixture on that corner. Re-torque the manifold in that area and fiddle with the idle screws, and see if it changes it.

  13. #20
    Compulsive chicken choker English Impala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire
    Posts
    6,189
    Images
    1030
    Post Thanks / Like
    English Impala is offline
    Re-torqued the manifold and checked all the plugs, all were the same colour. I’ll try it again tomorrow. I haven’t touched the idle screws because I don’t know where they are or what to do!

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Where you live, Town\City\County etc.

Please enter your full name
This field cannot be edited once it has been completed other than via contacting the site admin. Please make sure the information is correct first time.

Log-in

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

    Similar Threads

    1. Cooling a 302 Ford
      By English Impala in forum Tech Discussion
      Replies: 20
      Last Post: 05-07-2017, 10:13
    2. 302 ford probs
      By fluff in forum Tech Discussion
      Replies: 11
      Last Post: 22-12-2010, 13:58
    3. 302 Ford V8 & C4 Auto Parts
      By cushti in forum Stuff - WANTED
      Replies: 1
      Last Post: 10-12-2010, 13:20
    4. 302 ford for sale or swap
      By daz in forum Stuff - FOR SALE
      Replies: 2
      Last Post: 07-12-2010, 12:49
    5. 289 or 302 ford engine & box
      By Zody in forum Stuff - WANTED
      Replies: 6
      Last Post: 27-01-2010, 14:37

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may post new threads
    • You may post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •