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Thread: Dura blocks

  1. #1
    Official RnS Addict Stroprock's Avatar
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    Dura blocks

    I have been meaning to get a set of sanding blocks for a while, and getting to the stage of sanding filler on my Minor restoration has prompted me to have a look. I gather Dura Blocks are considered the best, but I have a couple of questions about them. First, are they worth it, or are they really only needed for full time body repair shops? Do they need special loop and hook paper or will just standard sanding paper work fine with them?

    Regards, Kit.

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    Dura blocks are the harder ones available. The flexible ones in my opinion are more versatile.

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    Official RnS Addict andy38's Avatar
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    i bought a set of the green blocks with the removable steel rods, best thing i bought.

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    Official RnS Addict Stroprock's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Any links or names for these recommended block kits so I can find them?

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    Woodchipper Extraordinair HotRod's Avatar
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    I use dura blocks all the time at work and they are by far the best blocks on the market, nice and light have a nice density to them and the right amount of flex, regular sand paper is what you use with them you just wrap it round the block, I would say that dura blocks are best used when flatting primer as they will just tend to ride over filler if it's not in smooth enough.

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    Woodchipper Extraordinair HotRod's Avatar
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    Only place to get dura blocks over here is frost automotive

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    Official RnS Addict Stroprock's Avatar
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    OK thanks, sounds like they're worth the £60 for the 7 piece kit then..

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    Compulsive chicken choker English Impala's Avatar
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    I've got one of these adjustable body files from Frost:

    Flexible File Holder for Body Solder / Lead Loading (c/w 9tpi std cut blade) | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques



    I have replaced the file with a 4" wide 3mm thick piece of plastic, I then buy a roll of abrasive paper from Wickes or B&Q and cut a strip off and attach it with double sided tape. It is brilliant and you can adjust the shape for profiled panels. I have used it on two cars now and I wouldn't be without it!

  11. #9
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    Hi Kit,

    The paper you will buy will depend on the blocks you have. If the blocks have a velcro like material on the surface and are referred to as Hook & Loop, you will have to use the hook and loop type paper. If the surface is smooth, then you will use the PSA (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive). Generally in the USA the PSA is more popular. It is cheaper and easier to get here. I am told that in Europe, however, the hook and loop is more prevalent.

    The advantage of the hook and loop is that the paper can be reused. In other words, when you change from one grit to another you can later reattach that paper and continue use. With the PSA when you remove it from the block, it will not adhere again and is wasted.

    Pros tell me that the PSA generally is a more accurate block since there is direct adhesion between the block and the paper. With the hook and loop you have the hook and loop between the paper and the block. I have been told that real perfectionists will use the Hook & Loop for working down and then the PSA for the final finish.

    Here is the USA, Dura-Blocks are pretty much the gold standard and are found in almost any body shop I stop into. I hope you will try them and I am sure you will be pleased.

    I hope that helps a little.
    Bill
    Dura-Block

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