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  1. #1
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Electronic guru needed

    Our JeeP Grand Cherokee has just died in the electrical department. Press the remote and nothing. Batteries in remote well over 3v each. All electrical seem to be working but not the central locking and the immobiliser. From what I have researched I suspect the box called a body control module is somehow involved. In my mind I am thinking check the fuse but cannot identify one in the system. For some years now we have had to occasionally disconnect th battery for 10 secs when one of the door modules went to sleep and the drivers door window and mirror wouldn't work. That bit hasn't stopped working so it's anew fault. Anyone got any ideas? I would love to scrap all the modiules and gizmos and hard wire everything like my Prefect as the car is getting on for 20 yrs old and who is going to steal it?
    Just found another clue that may be useful. Further to the drivers door sleep syndrome as mentioned above, this time the driver's door is still working but the passenger door has gone and nothing will revive it so far. I have been reading the unhelpful manual and somewhere there is a module that has the receiver for the remote key fob and I think it is one of the door modules. Also, been looking on the web for others problems and it emerges that wires breaking where they enter the door after years of bending back and forth.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 22-07-2017 at 17:40.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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  3. #2
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    fall-apart-dave is offline
    Had exactly this issue with one. Its the fob that is issue. Take the fob to bits, give the buttons a clean on the inside and the place where they contact it.

    Sadly, the ONLY way round it is with a DRBIII diagnostic tool to program a remote.

    The immobiliser uses a rolling code system and requires the VIN to be sent from the body control. In short there is no way to bypass any of the system. I spent many hours trying and researching and contacted the manufacturer of the immobiliser too.

    However just read your issue properly... Maybe a broken wire somewhere?

  4. #3
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    I will report back when I have checked out the door cable grommet area for any sad wiring. Thanks for the info anyway as may need it eventually.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    neil still building it is offline
    it might seem needless expense but one of these will confirm the fob good or not:
    Sealey IR & RF Key Fob Tester VS921 | eBay
    another thing is some fobs the buttons wear out can you identify what sort are on the board and solder on replacement,
    MERCEDES SMART CAR MITSUBISHI NISSAN NATS KEY FOB BUTTONS MICRO SWITCHES x 4 | eBay
    i have heard tv shop repairmen will do this for you if your not too confident with a soldering iron.......
    good luck
    neil

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil still building it View Post
    it might seem needless expense but one of these will confirm the fob good or not:
    Sealey IR & RF Key Fob Tester VS921 | eBay
    another thing is some fobs the buttons wear out can you identify what sort are on the board and solder on replacement,
    MERCEDES SMART CAR MITSUBISHI NISSAN NATS KEY FOB BUTTONS MICRO SWITCHES x 4 | eBay
    i have heard tv shop repairmen will do this for you if your not too confident with a soldering iron.......
    good luck
    neil
    Sorry to contradict but for the jeep, both are incorrect. The tester will still register a busted fob as working (ask how I know!) and the chip works on a rolling code. So without a DRBIII tool, is useless. Even your spare fob, if not used for months, will drop off the current pattern and its game over. The bottom line is without a DRBIII, you've had it unless you switch to a standalone ECU or swapping the whole lot over from a donor. Jeeps are an absolute pain in the ass.

  8. #6
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fall-apart-dave View Post
    Sorry to contradict but for the jeep, both are incorrect. The tester will still register a busted fob as working (ask how I know!) and the chip works on a rolling code. So without a DRBIII tool, is useless. Even your spare fob, if not used for months, will drop off the current pattern and its game over. The bottom line is without a DRBIII, you've had it unless you switch to a standalone ECU or swapping the whole lot over from a donor. Jeeps are an absolute pain in the ass.
    Agree on the pain comment. Found from the CD manual that the receiver is definitely in the near side passenger door. This after one section said it was behind the dash and I was thinking scrap the car rather than delve into all that. Anyway, will let you know what I find, hopefully just a broken wire or two. If its not that then I will need to try the other things. Anyone got a spare DRB tool in their tool box. I imagine its a tool that Jeep agants use and connects direct to ones bank account.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    NMNeil is offline
    Put key in ignition and turn on, do not start it. Turn key off then back on 3 times then leave it on. The trouble codes will replace the mileage on the gauges.
    Any error codes for the BCM will Begin with B, surprisingly.

  10. #8
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NMNeil View Post
    Put key in ignition and turn on, do not start it. Turn key off then back on 3 times then leave it on. The trouble codes will replace the mileage on the gauges.
    Any error codes for the BCM will Begin with B, surprisingly.
    Just tried it. Wasn't sure if you meant do the procedure 3 times or 4 so did both but no codes on the gauge. Car is a 1998 model, assembled in Austria in 1997 - maybe too old for that test? Just one more thing observed. Have had the battery disconnected but it was well charged a few days ago, ie down to one amp rate. When I put it back on charge this morning it went straight onto 4 amps but then down to 1 amp in about half an hour. Thats fairly standard. Anyway, I reconnected the battery for the above tests and in a short time it went back up to 4 amps. Have I got a dud battery or some big drain somewhere? Everything else is working. Will next try a relatively new battery on board to check this one out.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  11. #9
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    fall-apart-dave is offline
    I found no one has the drb no dealers etc up here. We scrapped the jeep in the end.

  12. #10
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Had another look at the passenger door module and connecting wiring. I tried separating the plug where the loom connects to the door by the hinge but couldn't' shift it. I just wanted to isolate that area to see if there is s break in the wiring. So I just put the grommet back and checked if there was power to the door plug at the module end and there was plus a good ground. Tried the window switch and it sprang to life. Tried the remote and it unlocked. Tried the ignition and the car started. Repeated this three times. Then..... it died again and is still dead. Summary.... did I disturb something in the wiring which worked for a short time? The battery voltage still puzzles me. It was well over 15 when on charge but disconnected from the car. As soon as I connected it to the car circuit it dropped like a stone to just over 12v. and still with the charger connected. There must be a heavy load on it and I know the anti theft system takes a bit but surely not that much.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 25-07-2017 at 19:25.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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