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  1. #11
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Thanks to all who have tried to help with ideas. I think we are getting closer to a solution but can anyone help with this next question. I have a strong sense there is a component causing a volt drop. I am sure it's part of the anti theft system. Going back years, when the battery was reconnected or changed there was a chirp from somewhere under the bonnet but I never knew where but in the region of the power distribution module perhaps. Lately this has changed to a cluck and then yesterday was silent. The alarm sounder doesn't sound. If I could locate the sounder I would try isolating it electrically. I am thinking this aledged volt drop is stopping the door module from Working as its all associated with the anti theft system. Does this make sense?
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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  3. #12
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    Sounder is on the bulkhead, drivers side, under all that crap. It's a swine to get to.

    I don't envy you mate, intermittent electrical faults are just the worst!

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    Official RnS Addict trevd's Avatar
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    I use a guy in Hawkwell for my Chrysler ,Detroit motors 01702 547330, he used to work for Chrysler and knows them inside out and has a proper Chrysler code reader he is also really sensible on price.

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  6. #14
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    make sure it's a DRBIII - not an emulator. Having a "proper" code reader is like approaching a 19mm bolt with a "proper" 13mm spanner. It's gotta be the "right" proper tool.

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    Phantom voltage/current drop, made a lot of money from those in the past.
    Get yourself an old filament type 12 volt bulb, not an LED, and either use a bulb holder or solder 2 wires on and put alligator clips on the ends, like this.
    https://s14-eu5.ixquick.com/cgi-bin/...0be6d60d54ec58
    Disconnect the negative lead of the battery and put one alligator clip on the battery and the other on the battery lead. All current drawn by the car now goes through that bulb. If you try and start the engine you will need to get a new bulb and try again, so don't.
    If the bulb is on you have a parasitic draw somewhere so start taking fuses out one at a time until it stops, now you know what circuit the draw is on.
    Start with that and go from there.

  8. #16
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    I did that except I used a Lucas ammeter and this indicated about 3 amps and this should be for just the under bonnet lamp and the anti theft stuff. Another thing Is whatever is cutting off power is also cutting power to the left side rear door as well as the front. I am just wondering if an intermittent relay somewhere is to blame. Back to the wiring diagrams etc but will bear in mind man in Hawkwell and check also which magic wand he has. By the way, thus morning had a half hour to fiddle with the car and just once it came back to life on the left side and engine started. Turned off and it was dead again. Dodgy relay?
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    Official RnS Addict trevd's Avatar
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    my man in hawkwel diagnosed 2 issues with my voyager without even plugging his code reader in both were correct, sometimes experience is better than electronic wizardry.

  10. #18
    Official RnS Addict trevd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fall-apart-dave View Post
    make sure it's a DRBIII - not an emulator. Having a "proper" code reader is like approaching a 19mm bolt with a "proper" 13mm spanner. It's gotta be the "right" proper tool.
    original Chrysler code reader and the knowledge to use it means he can sort problems, that's why he has a backlog of people wanting his services.

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    Official RnS Addict MYTHING's Avatar
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    Remember when the door is open the battery is powering something like 9 interior lights
    IT'S NOT GETTING WHAT YOU WANT...IT'S WANTING WHAT YOUVE GOT

  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevd View Post
    original Chrysler code reader and the knowledge to use it means he can sort problems, that's why he has a backlog of people wanting his services.
    I wasn't having a go matey. I was just pointing out that with the old Jeeps, there is no piece of kit that will work other than a DRBIII especially when it comes to recoding fobs (which seems to not be the issue here anyway). Believe me I tried, tried and tried! If he has a DRBIII then brilliant. Wasn't poo-pooing him at all, I just wasted a lot of time going to people that were "gurus" and "knew everythign" and "could definitely fix it" only to find that no matter what kit they had, it wouldn't work. Eventually found the bit of kit that would work, but no joy with finding someone with it.

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