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  1. #21
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fall-apart-dave View Post
    Sounder is on the bulkhead, drivers side, under all that crap. It's a swine to get to.

    I don't envy you mate, intermittent electrical faults are just the worst!
    I see what you mean, looks like the master cylinder needs to be removed to get at it. I am still trying to eliminate the sort of things I might understand but that's not much on these cars. Too many black boxes. I am from the era where you could see and get at everything and it all made sense to the 'normal bloke'. Radio valves were glass and if you tapped one and it crackled you replaced it. Right, back to the manual and maybe give that man a phone call later.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perfect65 View Post
    I see what you mean, looks like the master cylinder needs to be removed to get at it. I am still trying to eliminate the sort of things I might understand but that's not much on these cars. Too many black boxes. I am from the era where you could see and get at everything and it all made sense to the 'normal bloke'. Radio valves were glass and if you tapped one and it crackled you replaced it. Right, back to the manual and maybe give that man a phone call later.
    I'm electrically and electronics qualified, can write code, have 14 years industry experience on all manner of kit, have written algorithms and source code for all manner of bits of kit I designed myself, have qualifications in RADAR, radio, telecomms, sat comms, cryptography, regularly play around with Xbee, LoRa, and various other P2P comms systems, work weekends at a VW Resto place doing electrical work on all manner of cars, have a deep understanding of automotive application networks like CANBUS, and was defeated by a broken sodding keyfob. Everything I could do and throw at that lump did not work. I even managed to bypass the immobiliser and have it running with the alarm sounding (no I'm not gonna say how I did that and no it's not a solution to a broken immobiliser, even if you remove the alarm). They REALLY meant it when they put immobilisers on these Jeeps, there's quite simply no way around it without a standalone ECU.

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    I have a 98 jeep, does just what you mentioned yesterday, However I left the lights on, jumped inthe car and pressed the unlock as usual to reset the imobiliser, nowt zero nada, realised the lights were left on so switched them off got out to check and the side lights were still on.. Hmm back i the car key in ignition on all gauges bar the V gauge registered, put jumpers on it and away she went ..

    Jeeps are ace , they burn fossil fuel at a phenomenal rate, but they are built like tanks.. would have a diesel one if it wasnt politically incorrect

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  6. #24
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redoxide View Post
    I have a 98 jeep, does just what you mentioned yesterday, However I left the lights on, jumped inthe car and pressed the unlock as usual to reset the imobiliser, nowt zero nada, realised the lights were left on so switched them off got out to check and the side lights were still on.. Hmm back i the car key in ignition on all gauges bar the V gauge registered, put jumpers on it and away she went ..

    Jeeps are ace , they burn fossil fuel at a phenomenal rate, but they are built like tanks.. would have a diesel one if it wasnt politically incorrect
    I've got one you can buy but then why not make it a project. What size electric motor and how many batteries to replace the engine, gearbox, (oops no, need that to connect up to the front wheel drive!) fuel tank, radiator and exhaust system plus a few other gizmos like the above electronics black boxes?
    Last edited by Perfect65; 27-07-2017 at 17:47.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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    Official RnS Addict 35kid's Avatar
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    seems the most common reason for this is the module in the right hand door or the wiring going from the body to the door through the connector becomes brittle and breaks - normally the black earth wire. open the boot on the door and check for breaks in the wires.

  8. #26
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35kid View Post
    seems the most common reason for this is the module in the right hand door or the wiring going from the body to the door through the connector becomes brittle and breaks - normally the black earth wire. open the boot on the door and check for breaks in the wires.
    Thats ok if the wire breaks clean including the insulation but when the conductor breaks inside the insulation there is no visible fault. I tried disengaging the plug in the door boot but could not find a way of getting it apart, tried all the latches etc. I just wanted to isolate a section to get my meter on and do as you suggest. The thing that has made the broken wire unlikely is the way the electrics have come back and everything working in a mysterious way. Done it 5 times now and then it dies just as quick as it revived.
    I spoke today to John, TrevDs man and he told me a trick to try but no success yet. Problem is that his version of where the immobiliser receiver is located varies from the factory manual and also where I have seen a unit marked "receiver". I need to strip out the drivers door panel to check who is right. John reckoned the system was modified on later cars to prevent the electrical spike that causes this problem.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 28-07-2017 at 19:31.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  9. #27
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    John reckons he can bypass the immobiliser stuff and get it working but he doesn't do mobile and also going on holiday soon. Seems I'm stuffed in all directions. Other choices are sell it to local 4x4 breaker and forget it. Break it myself and get left with a pile of un saleable bits maybe or strip out the Jeep electronics and wire like my Prefect. Might need a bit of cable and some extra switches. Perhaps there's a mobile guru in the area.........
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  10. #28
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fall-apart-dave View Post
    ........I even managed to bypass the immobiliser and have it running with the alarm sounding (no I'm not gonna say how I did that and no it's not a solution to a broken immobiliser, even if you remove the alarm). They REALLY meant it when they put immobilisers on these Jeeps, there's quite simply no way around it without a standalone ECU.
    Is the standalone ECU like a laptop or is it something I can fit in the car to sort these problems as they arise?
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  11. #29
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Yesterday got the car started and backed it up the drive. Had engine running to get it hot as it hasn't done much for about 3 or 4 weeks. I conclude that disconnecting the battery and or disconnecting the passenger door module plug did something in the bcm which is where the problem seems to start. This manifestation seems to be unpredictable so no point driving the car anywhere. I have seen a couple of used BCMs on eBay so perhaps it's worth a punt and swap one of those into my car. Not sure if anything will need reprogramming as they are both from same model as mine but will expose my module to compare part numbers.
    Also, read in an old web post that cutting one of the wires to the door module purple/yellow, and grounding it will fool the computer and prevent the immobiliser from ruining the party. Apparently this still allows the central locking to work. It seems Jeep electronic glitches are legendary. Perhaps I can make my own contribution.
    Last edited by Perfect65; 02-08-2017 at 19:33.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  12. #30
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    Turned out the BCMs on eBay were in fact audio amplifiers so no good even though seller called them BCMs. Seen another BCM and this time it is right so will still be a punt as to whether it works and if the problem is the BCM. Jeep seems to be heading to scrap yard as too old for specialist breakers. Seems a sad affair as paint and mechanics all good and only just over 100k miles. Damned electronics- progress?
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

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