engine dies on revs once reaches 4800rpm - Page 5
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  1. #41
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    kapri is online now
    LOOK at that video again...closely .Observation is key.

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  3. #42
    Lost in the ozone. . .... malc's Avatar
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    You could take your problem to the MSD Forum.

    https://forums.msdperformance.com/

    I use an MSD Blaster SS Coil 8207 mounted away from engine heat and vibration.

    https://www.summitracing.com/dom/par...8207/overview/
    (My posts are simple due to the fact all my little buttons for fonts, smilies, links, YouTube etc., are missing)

  4. #43
    Official RnS Addict speedfreaks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by malc View Post
    You could take your problem to the MSD Forum.

    https://forums.msdperformance.com/

    I use an MSD Blaster SS Coil 8207 mounted away from engine heat and vibration.

    https://www.summitracing.com/dom/par...8207/overview/
    I actually phoned msd and they told me to put a resistor in it between the coil and the dash as it might be sending to much to the Dakota dash display. I'm still waiting to get back back ATM so once I get it back will try the easiest method first and work to the resistor if still not then **** knows

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  6. #44
    Official RnS Addict MYTHING's Avatar
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    Ignore all comments other than electrical/ignition

    The video shows the ignition being cut by a rev limiter, its immediate and also cuts the feed to the digital rev counter

    I would run a wire to the coil from the battery with a switch on it via the drivers seat so you can sit inside the car whilst operating it

    Run the engine and flick on the switch when the revs die (bloody quick mind) the engine should pick up again as the coil gets power again, although you will have to be carefull as the rev counter will be dead, assuming it works and I would only do it once, what does this prove...it proves the ignition is being cut and that it is purely the electrical feed to the coil

    You are then going to have to trace each wire and check each system component and make sure there is nothing wired in to cut the revs (I dont know the car history but could it have a rev limiter, or MSD box under the dash etc, did it have Nitrous previously?) there has to be another system other than the rev limiters you know about

    Its not fuel...it would cough and splutter

    Its not balast relay they just cut the voltage to the coil once its started

    Its not mechanical, valve springs etc that would not be so instantaneous

    Good luck, it will be simple once you find it....

    Example...My altered lost fire at the end of the run off area, poor rotar arm and dirty dissy cap we thought

    It ran the rest of the day and started about 20 times, come to the 3rd run of the next outing, wouldnt start...fuel, carb, battery etc were suggestions

    We found a wire that had rubbed through from the coil to the rev counter, it was sittong on the engine earthing the coil which killed it dead

    Minor item, major problem, bugger to find

    Good Luck
    IT'S NOT GETTING WHAT YOU WANT...IT'S WANTING WHAT YOUVE GOT

  7. #45
    Official RnS Addict speedfreaks's Avatar
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    Thanks mything. Very helpful. hopefully it will be something simple as you say it's just finding the bloody thing haha. Thanks again

  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    LOOK at that video again...closely .Observation is key.
    I was gonna suggest checking the washer bottle was full, but don't wanna make the thread drop into trolling...


    A switch from battery to coil would prove it's a rev limiter issue (and is a damn good shout for diagnosing the issue), but it's something that doesn't need proving - you have already demonstrated absolutely that is is a rev limiter. As me, Kapri and MyThing have all said, it cannot be anything else. It is in there, somewhere. It may not be fitted correctly. It may be the wrong type. It may not be set up for your motor. It may be a rev limiting rotor arm (they exist). It may be all sorts of things, but it is there hiding away cutting your revs when you hit a certain point. The simplest, simplest way of finding where it is, is by using the half-split technique. In this case, that means ditching everything that isn't necessary for making it run (my last post), and trying it. If it runs and doesn't limit or cut out, then from there adding them one at a time until it cuts out when revving. If it STILL cuts out at revs, then you know that the rev limiter is built into the dizzy somewhere.


    ALL of that said, however, there is one other thing you could check... The installation its self. Go over it and make sure that all is well, connections are good and cables are not damaged etc. Making sure that we aren't chasing a ghost here.
    As I said, your set up is alien to me, I'm an air cooled V-Dub man, however... I have seen, years ago, on my Baja, with the centrifugal advance, the points would earth themselves on the body of the dizzy owed to some crappy installation and a wire flapping about on my part, so that it would run just fine but the second it reached max advance, it would cut out. Then as soon as the advance backed off, it would kick up again. It did that for about 5 mins before it died completely. I do not think that is your issue here, but there are occasions where something funky is going on... (there isn't, it's a rev limiter )

  9. #47
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    I had a dig around and it seems that MSD use their own custom ignition module inside the distributor. The rev limiter circuit is built into the module. If you have the old distributor it may be worth swapping the MSD module for the factory one. All I can think of as you've tried everything else.
    https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...er/parts/83647

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