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  1. #11
    Official RnS Addict mygasser's Avatar
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    I only said polystyrene as it's a lot cheaper than kingspan/celotex etc and once you've shaped it and taped over it (for release purposes) it'd do the same job. You can cut it to shape with a bread knife.
    Neil.
    need a job done on your project? i may be able to help.

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  3. #12
    Rods 'n' Sods Junkie Paul L's Avatar
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    Nobody – Looks like you have got it covered, but just in case some photos might help….

    I found this piece of foam in a skip, so it was free.



    I then carved it into the shape I wanted.



    I then wrapped the mould in some cling film.



    Before adding the fibreglass matting over the top.



    Depending on the final shape you are making, the foam can be pulled, or cut, away.



    If your mould is oversize, then you can trim off the excess to leave a clean edge.



    Note:
    I wasn’t looking for a perfectly smooth finish, as I was going to add body filler before painting.

    So before:



    And after:



    Hope that helps and good luck, Paul.

  4. #13
    Official RnS Addict WB54's Avatar
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    PaulL i’ve got a fibreglass teardrop bulge that would have been ideal for your bonnet
    Last edited by WB54; 25-04-2019 at 19:33.

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  6. #14
    Official RnS Addict Perfect65's Avatar
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    I recall years ago reading about making glass fibre tanks using polystyrene to lay the mat over in making the mould. The polystyrene was removed by dissolving it with acetone. Possibly nothing useful in this case but just felt the need to add it in case somebody can use it if nobody cannot.
    Greatest discombobulations to all my readers.

  7. #15
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    Thanks and thanks paul l

    I ended up using the builders insulation and sanding it to shape.what a messy job that was
    Rod/custom/drag build profiles:
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  8. #16
    Off the Xmas card list kapri's Avatar
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    Just done a similar job and used Kingspan sikaflexed into place and the p40 over the top. Shaped it with an electric breadknife.

  9. #17
    longroof society member yellacar's Avatar
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    Hi Guys

    If you are going the foam route find your local pattern /model makers suppliers (we use John burns here in brum/Coventry). Now here's a tip for you don't use masking tape if you can because it gets really messy if polyester resin gets to the glue YUK!!!. go to a stationery suppliers and get yourself a tin of repositionable glue the stuff people stick paper/card to displays or presentations. then go and get yourself a couple of rolls of cheap (read thin) Tin foil the thick stuff is not so malleable as the thin stuff. Now cut the foil into squares, size depends on how complex the shape you are trying to mould is.
    You now lay the squares out on a board and spray them with the glue, Lift each square and position on your foam smoothing out with a filler spreader and a clean soft cloth until the foam is covered you can even go onto the board or flange your foam is stuck to.
    Ok so now you can start waxing the tin foil with release wax 3 coats of wax should be ok don't forget to buff the wax after each coat. if you use this method you shouldn't have any problems . At work we take moulds of full size clay cars using this method no problems.
    hope this helps Ian.

  10. #18
    I'm a grown up member now ! pyeman's Avatar
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    cover the kingspan in tinfoil stops the fiberglass sticking when it comes to removing it and the foil backed tape is good for spanning gaps and shaping

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